Dingo Manco Fox 2x5 LXT Torque Converter replacement

[USAMAC]

The clutch mount has (2) 5/8" high speed bearings pressed in.

I was unable to get the shaft to go in while the bearings were in mount.

I do not have the green tube of grease meant for marine with me, but I do have some in my grease gun at home. I do however have with me some 2-4-C gear lube from working on my Larson (boat).

I was able to gently knock out the bearings from the opposite end with a blunt object this morning, before I left for work. It appears they will go back in without any conflict as well, but not with the shaft in. Even with Lube, the bearings will not go past the lip. I am wondering if it is because there is too much paint/coating on the steel that's just enough to keep them back. In the pics you can see how gently tapping the shaft with the bearing on it is scratching some of the paint off.. Any suggestions on if I should attempt to remove the pain and how?

In the pic that has the shaft in it, I know it's not flush, this was on purpose so you can see how it is slightly too big..

 

[Denny]

You will not destroy the bearings. I have been doing this for 35 years to people’s lawn tractor decks. My dad still has the original set of bearings I put in his John Deere deck spindles 33 years ago with those modifications. I can not think of a more hostile environment than a mower deck that has cut 4 acres of grass for the
Last 33 years.

 

[Denny]

That is a gear lube do not use it for this application, not recommended. You may need to be a little more forceful or use a drill and a wire wheel to clean the paint off. Then clean out the tube of all contamination real good. Do not remove the inner seal if you do not install the grease zerk and fill with the green grease!

 

[Karttekk]

Unless I missed it, what did the vendor say?

 

[Karttekk]

Those bearings are pressed in, they'll take a bit of force to seat them. Use a socket big enough to fit the outside edge of the bearing and drive it in evenly.

 

[USAMAC]

Unless I missed it, what did the vendor say?

I finally heard back from BMI about 4pm EDT.. anyhow, here is their response to my detailed email about the situation last night

You do not need to remove the bearings to install the shaft, you should be able to install the mount under the engine, and then slide the jackshaft through the bearings. Do not over grease, as this can cause the bearings to fall out.

I replied letting them know it definitely would not slide through the bearing mounted or not, with or without grease. That being said, I finally got it installed though! I ended up removing the bearings, greasing everything lightly putting 1 bearing & washer on the shaft and inserting close enough to the mount then lightly tapping in evenly with a socket and wood block and hammer (lightly)!
Then I installed the motor struggling with those front nuts, so I have a set of ratcheting wrenches on order.. procrastinated that one long enough!

I don't have the driven pulley, clutch, chain or belt in stock but per somebody's recommendation I took the time to measure from center to center of each shaft.. the are now exactly 7".

Here's the belt I ordered: Does this mean its going to work or no? The Center Distance is just little confusing, but the 7" pulley part means that since I have ordered a 6" Driven, it should work right?

 

[Karttekk]

Yes it should work just fine. If the distance between the two is 7" or less, the 5959 belt should work.

 

[Karttekk]

First update:

So I got the Clutch Mount with Jackshaft today from BMI. Before I mess something up, I thought I'd get some incite here on the proper way of inserting the shaft. Should I remove the bearings and put them on the shaft and then install shaft and 1 bearing and then slide the 2nd bearing onto the clutch side or should the shaft slide right in with the bearings on the mount?

I am sure it would be ideal to grease everything up first, any specific recommendations or just some motor oil? I do have some Dry Moly Lube and Chain Wax coming in sometime today.

Edite: Pics

View attachment 129461

View attachment 129462

I picked up one of these myself for another kart that's getting refurbished. Went with a thin layer of Sil Glyde silicone based lubricant the entire length of the bolt then tapped it in slowly with a hammer. Went in easily with no hiccups. Wiped off the excess lube that formed at the bolt head once it bottomed out, should be fine.

Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricant, Tube, 4 oz - AGS Company

Silicone Grease

agscompany.com

 

[Karttekk]

Here's the completed jackshaft

 

[USAMAC]

I picked up one of these myself for another kart that's getting refurbished. Went with a thin layer of Sil Glyde silicone based lubricant the entire length of the bolt then tapped it in slowly with a hammer. Went in easily with no hiccups. Wiped off the excess lube that formed at the bolt head once it bottomed out, should be fine.

Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricant, Tube, 4 oz - AGS Company

Silicone Grease

agscompany.com

Cool, I'll pick up some incase I need any in the future, but I assure you mine was not going on that easily.. did go on but not quite that easily. All good though, thanks for the info

 

[Karttekk]

Maybe the bolt was slightly bent or something. Mine sort of looked like it could have been but luckily I had no issues. Glad you got it though. Hope to see a video of you blazing down the street in your kart sometime soon!

 

[USAMAC]

I tried to set it back up with the old parts last night just to see if it would ride, but the chain wasn't long enough anymore. Rest of the new parts come in today but probably won't have time to mess with it until tomorrow Another issue I gotta work that I'm reading up on now, is I think the I didn't install the throttle back like it was before pulling it apart.. or I just need to make some adjustments. Hopefully, it'll work out thanks again!

Lemme ask while I got it there.. occasional back firing a good indication of anything specific? When I had the motor off, I changed the oil, pull the oil sensor (just the part on the outside) and and turned the cover for the crank so my kids can reach it easier.. I think I have some videos of when I first cranked it, but I need to go through em.. Here's pics of the throttle.. don't know if that spring hooked to the exhaust is right, but trying to find out now.

 

[USAMAC]

Here's a quick video I made yesterday to let it run, you can hear it backfire at 12 or 13sec in.

For fun, here's a video I made before trying to get my 8yr old to help me, but he was scared the kart would take off on him as it did me the week before lol that's now burned into him forever!

 

[Karttekk]

You can add links to the chain, pick up a section online or at a mower shop and add as needed. I've used two master links at times even though I'm not sure that's the best way to go. As long as the nut holding the throttle lever down is loose enough to allow the lever to spring back when off the gas, the return spring should be good where you have it.

When does it backfire? When starting the engine? When coasting to a stop? Revving it up? Make sure your plug isn't fouled and there are no air leaks at the carb base gasket.

 

[USAMAC]

You can add links to the chain, pick up a section online or at a mower shop and add as needed. I've used two master links at times even though I'm not sure that's the best way to go. As long as the nut holding the throttle lever down is loose enough to allow the lever to spring back when off the gas, the return spring should be good where you have it.

When does it backfire? When starting the engine? When coasting to a stop? Revving it up? Make sure your plug isn't fouled and there are no air leaks at the carb base gasket.

I added a video right after that's where my kid is reving it and it did it as she let off.. But when I first cranked it, before it warmed it up it died on me a couple times and backfired once.. So, I pulled out my camera to record what was happening incase I had questions.. Check out the videos I shared above

I'll check those 2 things tonight if I get sometime for sure!

 

[ONE-EYE]

Hello all,

I have a Dingo Manco Fox 2x5 LXT that I bought off of someone from FB Market about 2 years ago. At the time, I was in full blown house building mode, so when we began having issues (almost right away) I procrastinated. Our issues began when the not in terrible condition drive belt broke off. I had planned to order one forever but let it slide until my son asked me again about it recently so I got motivated. I ordered what I thought would fit, based on the necessary measurements and swapped it out. This did the trick, but after taking it out to ride for a couple hours I found that the clutch pulley was producing so much heat it melted the zip tape I used to mend the converter cover. The kart kept stalling out about every 5 minutes. I also found that this kart keeps trying to go with the foot off the break and I cannot hold it back. I can't seem to find anywhere if that is normal because of the torque converter or if it should stay still in idle?

With the problems I was having, I decided to order a new kit from amazon. The guy I bought this from had replaced the motor it came with originally, with a Predator 212cc 6.5hp Gas. The Drive shaft for the converter pulley that he put on there was exceptionally long, it actually went as far as the motor is wide. He had fabricated a mount out of steel that he put a small steel tube on to hold this long shaft with appropriate bearings etc.

I pulled the old converter kit off, disconnected the chain and throttle cable and pulled the motor out to change the oil and to turn the crank to make it easier on my kids and remove the operation of the oil sensor. Eventually, I want to remove the oil sensor, governor and do a stage one, but I don't want to bother until I can get the kart running properly with this new converter kit. I ended up using a grinder to remove the pipe the previous owner had added to the mounting bracket he fabricated for the old converter shaft.

I have some pics to attach with where I am at now, but I'm kicking myself for not taking any before picks of how it was assembled. The issue I am having, is I believe that the drive sprocket is way too high and too close to the motor, or the motor is too close to it, I am unsure and this is definitely where my inexperience is hindering me. I keep watching videos and looking at pics online, but I can't quite get enough detail to determine where the problem lies in this kart's setup.

Should I move the main sprocket or should I move the motor? I am also thinking I need to elevate the motor even more than he did with the bracket he fabricated. I'll have to use wood or hire it out, because I do not own or have much experience with welding. Is there something I am missing? Let me know if more pics are needed, I will get them when I get home.

I was able to source 2 different #'s for this kart, but I don't know which is mine or if relevant to the discussion here. Maybe one is a 1 seater and the other is 2 seater? Or possibly the years they were made?

485B-19 FOX 2X5 LXT
485B-09 FOX 2X5 LXT

As far as the TAV not disengaging, did you try adjusting the throttle cable a hair so that the idle rpms might be a bit lower? If that cable is too tight it'll idle higher, which could be engaging the TAV. Just a thought...

 

[USAMAC]

As far as the TAV not disengaging, did you try adjusting the throttle cable a hair so that the idle rpms might be a bit lower? If that cable is too tight it'll idle higher, which could be engaging the TAV. Just a thought...

Nice, I was just learning about this online and was also learning about the washer under the throttle handle that can be removed to allow it to flow easier.. gonna check if mine has it in there still and remove if so. I've not really played around with adjusting small engine throttles before this cart, so I am learning to do so now.. hopefully lol

 

[USAMAC]

When does it backfire? When starting the engine? When coasting to a stop? Revving it up? Make sure your plug isn't fouled and there are no air leaks at the carb base gasket.

Last night I was messing around with the throttle and took down the air filter and the carb enough to find that the piece of metal between the carb and the air filter has a rubber gasket on each side.. both were intentionally meld onto that metal piece, or they were both so smashed they're not coming off.. im just unsure of which, any idea? I'll look it up in a bit but was outside of my knowledge pool.

I'll have to pickup a 13/16 deep well socket tonight, so I can pull the plug. If I replace it, should I keep with a stock intended plug or is there a preferred plug on the Predator 212cc non hemi?

Either way, what gap is ideal for these plugs?

 

[Karttekk]

Everything should be in this PDF. I go with the NGK plugs myself as opposed to the Torch.

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60363.pdf

 

[USAMAC]

Everything should be in this PDF. I go with the NGK plugs myself as opposed to the Torch.

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60363.pdf

Thank you, just made such quick work of pains of the past hour of searching online for that manual and for other recommendations on types of plugs.. again, thank you!