Dingo Manco Fox 2x5 LXT Torque Converter replacement

[Karttekk]

Here is an OEM Predator parts vendor

69730/69727 Predator OEM Parts

JKC Provides a wide range of parts from off road go karts, Racing Karts, to OEM engine parts for clone 196cc engines and 212 Harbor Freight Predator Engines.

www.efkarting.com

 

[USAMAC]

Hey guys, I have a few updates.

1.) CHain

After some struggle, I was finally able to get the chain sized correctly and installed.. I have seen some youtubers refer to a 3/8 slack being ideal when installed, but how do I measure for that? I tried to just leave a little slack.

I have a video here to share that shows a slight bump in one of the links. Think this will cause a problem? Anything I can do to resolve it?

Hopefully, one day someone else will be looking for some tips, and these pics will come in handy on how I added links to get the size I needed. This is how I was able to add the pins back with the chain breaker. Took a lot of patience and going slow to ensure I wasn't bending anything but I was able to add 2 links this way. (I messed up twice in the process of doing a lot of learning!)



2.) Spark Plug

I ended up pulling my spark plug and found it to have (according to GKS) either Carbon Fouling or Oil Fouling. What should I do and how can I tell them the apart? I don't know what either means. Here's my 2 supporting images. I did replace the plug, but would like to correct the any issue that could be being caused. Oil was changed when I pulled the cart last week.




3.) Driven Pulley

Yesterday, despite not being sure of the chain, I decided to go ahead and continue assembling to attempt in testing out everything. When assembling the driven, I needed 2 spacer washers between the sprocket and bearing to appropriately line the chain up. Then used a spacer after the sprocket and then the driven and then another spacer and the nut. This is where things went wrong. I then grabbed my impact and tapped on it a couple times. Then something metallic fell from the shaft and I stopped puzzled. After inspecting, I found that the little metal ring around the left bearing had popped off and part of the bearing had broken and the rest was inside the shaft mount. I must have tightened down too much so, here's my question: Something else I did wrong? How much torque should I have used to tighten down the outside nut?

I am going to have to use one of the older bearings now.

 

[Karttekk]

1. There should be no bumps in the chain, plus is seems a little loose.

2. Don't worry about how the plug got fouled, replace it & check it after a couple of days of use. If the engine isn't smoking it's probably from a rich fuel mixture.

3. Go back & look at how my setup is in the images I provided. There are multiple washers or spacers keeping the jackshaft sprocket away from the bearing. I don't see any spacers before the jackshaft sprocket in your picture. I run mine up with an impact then "burp" the trigger a couple of times to ensure the nut is secure. These are all things we all learn as we go. New high speed bearings are cheap, grab a couple of new ones to have on hand.

 

[USAMAC]

1. There should be no bumps in the chain, plus is seems a little loose.

2. Don't worry about how the plug got fouled, replace it & check it after a couple of days of use. If the engine isn't smoking it's probably from a rich fuel mixture.

3. Go back & look at how my setup is in the images I provided. There are multiple washers or spacers keeping the jackshaft sprocket away from the bearing. I don't see any spacers before the jackshaft sprocket in your picture. I run mine up with an impact then "burp" the trigger a couple of times to ensure the nut is secure. These are all things we all learn as we go. New high speed bearings are cheap, grab a couple of new ones to have on hand.

How can I get those bumps out? I could not seem to remove them.. maybe I need to bend out that section of the link a little?

There are 2 spacers actually, but they are inside the jackshaft mount in that pic. It came with 4 but now only needs 2 to line up the chain

 

[Karttekk]

Are the bumps from adding links? Here's a video about tight links on a bicycle chain but the same principal applies

 

[USAMAC]

Awesome, thank you

 

[madprofessor]

You get those tight link connections (bumps) from poorly aligned plates/rollers/pins altogether. I got it from using a crap chainbreaker that bent a couple of links that weren't even any of the links being removed. If the link can't flap like a one-wing-dove when you shake it, the link's bad. Get off of your anti-master link high horse and use a master link and/or a half link to tie the chain together. And it is loose, maybe a half link would fit and fix that.
Is that "ring" that popped out a snap-ring with 2 little holes for snap-ring pliers?
You don't have to use a ton of torque on those nuts on the shaft if you're using axle nuts. Axle nuts are thin nuts with fine threads and a nylon insert, a nylock nut. You just run them down snug but with the bearing still able to spin freely. It'll stay right there because of the nylon, that's what they're made for, so you don't bind much less crush a bearing trying to get a common nut tight enough not to back out.
1" Axle Nut | 400050 | BMI Karts And Parts
That spark plug may look carbon fouled, but it may just be soot coated from a rich mixture like Karttech said. Wipe it off with a dry cloth, and if the black wipes right off, maybe with the cloth around the tip of a screwdriver, it's just soot and it's not fouled anymore then. Do like he said on running it a bit then checking the appearance. Wipe for soot.

 

[USAMAC]

Get off of your anti-master link high horse and use a master link and/or a half link to tie the chain together.

Wrong thread maybe? I used a master link, recently purchased from GKS. This was my first chain anything for that matter, but I've not heard of a half link. Once I get the kink worked out, my plan is to take the slack out by loosening the 4 bolts below the motor plate and sliding the motor forward a bit more.

I went and got pics and a measurement of the bolt, its a bit different looking but does not have nylon inside. There were actually 2 of these, one on each end of the jackshaft. This one I salvaged from the old shaft, because the other one had stripped threads.

Those bearings, I tool pics of to attempt buying more.. is that potentially a Walmart/HD/AutoZone item?

 

[Karttekk]

At this point you'll need to start Googling some of this stuff. Walk away, come back to it. Too much going on. You'll figure it out.

 

[USAMAC]

At this point you'll need to start Googling some of this stuff. Walk away, come back to it. Too much going on. You'll figure it out.

Oh I Google a lot man and look up tons of videos too.. Great for visuals but not so much for knowledgeable details. It was late for me when I posted that last night, just hadn't looked up the bearings yet.. not really thinking how minor of a detail that was. My bad!

 

[madprofessor]

5-PIECES 35 Standard Roller Chain Offset Link, 1/2 Link, Half Link, Crank Link 799789049156 | eBay
Prowin 4 Piece Internal/External Snap Ring Pliers Set, Circlip Pliers Set with Storage Pouch - - Amazon.com
High Speed Wheel Bearing (3/4" x 1-5/8") | 600626 | BMI Karts And Parts

 

[USAMAC]

5-PIECES 35 Standard Roller Chain Offset Link, 1/2 Link, Half Link, Crank Link 799789049156 | eBay
Prowin 4 Piece Internal/External Snap Ring Pliers Set, Circlip Pliers Set with Storage Pouch - - Amazon.com
High Speed Wheel Bearing (3/4" x 1-5/8") | 600626 | BMI Karts And Parts

Thanks for that! I think I'm good on the chain for now and ordered this set of bearing from Amazon today, to be here in a couple days.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TD8IQZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting to me how none of these bearings have the little holes on the snap rings for those tools you referenced.. I'm still gonna get me a set, gonna need it in the long run.

 

[USAMAC]

After fixing my chain tonight, I decided to go ahead and clean up one of the older bearings and setup the chain test it out. I can't help but to feel like it's rubbing somewhere, but I think it is aligned properly. Here's a video of what I'm experiencing. I tightened it up as well.

 

[Karttekk]

I wonder if the tips of the chain rivets are hitting the spacer washers. Is the chain too tight now? There should be some flex, a half inch or so .

 

[Karttekk]

Maybe turn the jackshaft sprocket around.

 

[Denny]

Some good lube on the chain will quiet it down some. Check for witness marks on the chain or sprockets and correct accordingly. If all is ok then just run the wheels off of it.

 

[USAMAC]

I did double check to make sure the chain was not too tight. From some videos I found, I felt like it had just a little flexibility. I can try to capture this tomorrow. I'll also get a better pic of how close the chain is to the spacers.

I have not sprayed any chain wax on it yet, incase I needed to make more adjustments. But it did come pretty well greased.

I could try turning the shaft around, but would be fun to assemble considering BMI welded the bolt on one side to the shaft.

 

[madprofessor]

Not willing to state definitively that I'm correct about that chain noise, but in my opinion the chain tension is good, and all you're hearing is the normal mechanical noises of moving metal parts interacting with each other.
I think Denny's right about the chain lube though, it needs better lubrication based on what it sounds like. Just because your hand gets dirty grabbing the chain doesn't necessarily mean it's properly lubed up. Did you soak the chain submerged in oil for a while before installing it?
Block off with cardboard or something the things you don't want oil to be slung on, and saturate that chain with a good lube that's designed to evaporate off just the excess to prevent caking with dirt, leaving just a film of lubrication. Crank it up with the rear end off the ground afterward and rev it up real good, sling off all the excess.
Here's the stuff I use, and ignore what it says about being anti-sling to stay put, that's just the lube that's left after the solvent evaporates away....................L711.pdf (solvewithb.com)...................and I also use it on every cable-in-conduit setup I make.

 

[USAMAC]

L711.pdf (solvewithb.com)...................and I also use it on every cable-in-conduit setup I make.

You use the same stuff to pre soak chains in too? No I didn't soak it but I will!

Here's the flex in the chain asked about last night:

This pic should show the space between the chain and the spacers next to the sprocket.

 

[Karttekk]

That chain sounds like it's making a popping sound, especially as the chain slows down at the end of the first video, plus you don't have enough flex in the second video. There are adjustment slots in the kart mounting plate, I would loosen up the engine hold down bolts and nudge it just enough to give it some more flex. I still think it's too tight. There should be a very slight "droop" in the chain. It should make a whirring noise, not a popping noise.