If the tank is newer one... It'll have a check valve, no need to have a filter really...
For the valve cover... Any fuel filter or adapted breather filter will do...
After recently building a bike for a neighbor... I'd say it's not easy per-se....
If you don't have a bender it's not the end...
But it makes life easier...
Having the tools and a place to build makes the most part of it...
Depending on the hub type.. there should be a setscrew tightening against the key...
With that being said.. sans setscrews... Pipe clamps in a pinch or if you want disassembly, shaft collars...
I'm not sure why either...
To get it mounted and re balanced it'll be expensive..
Who knows how ARC balances theres.. w/wo the crank, con-rod/ piston weight, ect...
It all factors in what they need for balance.
You need them to have magnets installed by them... As it needs to be balanced precisely with them...
Don't try to modify it as it then will be dangerous to use...
Its slack when is it under recoil... because the drive point is way ahead of the pivot point.... mostlikely need a jackshaft to position the drive point at the pivot or just behind....
Ok... Since this is DIYGK... ya a little outside the bounds... but howabout tell us how you mated the engine to the car transmission then if no pics??...
The flanges need to be back to back then against the frame.... not capping the outside of the frame hanger with the bearing inbetween......
I Had that issue before on one of my bikes... a bit of a pain... but fixable.
Moving what part to where???
Looks like you are missing a spring....
A thin small spring to the butterfly with the rod from the gov arm, then the larger long leg spring from the throttle plate arm to the gov arm....