Bobs 2024 Build Off Build

bob58o

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A little GAB on this machine and spatter.
The conversion to DC with full wave bridge Rectifier and the capacitor as a filter was supposed to reduce spatter by smoothing out the voltage signal.

Flipping electrodes from positive to negative and back at 60 Hz with AC as it came probably creates more spatter.

with the FWBR but Without the capacitor, when the voltage is pulsating low, high, low high… spatter should be worse than a smoother filtered signal.

All this in theory.

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bob58o

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There is no fun allowed in karting.

In the words of my grandmother, “If you want fun, go with all your friends and start a one man band.”

 

bob58o

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At the moment I can only think of one bolt that I would need to use such an insert. Because I spent all my money on the Kathy Ireland poster, I’ll probably just try to fish a t-bolt from the open end of the tube and put a nut on top and then hate myself every time I remove the gas tank.

This may end up looking Frisco style anyway. I don’t think I’ll be using very much of the tunnel in the tank.

I’m thinking if I find a plain steel threaded rod coupler 1.75” long, I could weld it on top of and perpendicular to the backbone for the front mounts of the tank. If the front mounts are lower (using more of the tunnel), I don’t think gravity and the tank shape and parallel to the ground backbone play well to let the tank drain.
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bob58o

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Use a piece of tube instead of the threaded nut. A long thru bolt and nut. 2 tabs off the frame to your height.
Ya that was the other idea. I don’t think I want to raise the round tube any higher than the top of the backbone, so I don’t think I need the tabs.

I got some 1/2” OD 3/8” ID tubing that I ran a drill through for use with 3/8” threaded rod. I originally used this rod/tube for tie rods on a buggy.

I’ll probably use a 5/16” x 2.5” bolt for the gas tank front, through the 3/8” ID tube with tube welded directly to backbone.
 

bob58o

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I will leave a group of inches at the front of the backbone between the head tube and the tank.

This should allow maximum turn-ability of the steering handles.
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bob58o

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These tacks temporarily tie tabs to the tailbone.


I don’t see why this location won’t work for the seat. BTW, 18” is too long for a seat. I could have saved money and just got a $20 Coleman seat 12” long. The back 3” or so of the 18” seat will just hang off the back.

Anyway, I think I can try to weld these on.

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bob58o

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I’m fairly confident this type of track slot t-bolt will work for me inside the 1” tube. Inside opening of tube is 19mm wide and the heads on these T-bolts are 23mm long. I think these are for aluminum extrusion framing things.

Of course there has to be that one metric bolt to confuse me later.
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bob58o

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If yer using regular cad plated bolts to weld on to sumthin, dip them in muatic acid to remove the plating. Yer lungs will be much happier
I don’t think I’ll have to weld any bolts.
But does this work for most coatings?
Galvanized? Zinc? Not sure what other coatings.

I think the strongest acid I have is weak phosphoric acid sold as pH Down. I use it for soluble phosphorous to feed plants
 

Master Hack

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It works on most platings. Test it on scrap first. Works excellent on Gal/zinc. The fumes emitted are toxic, so ya probably should do it outside.
Available at hardware stores, the Homo depot, and wherever pool supplies are sold.
Your results may vary.
 

bob58o

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5/16-18x 2-1/2”

I ordered for pickup from Home Depot.
Do not do this.
I noticed the 2-1/2” bolt looked about an inch short. The girl behind the counter decided to measure. Somebody probably taught her that the lines as the beginning of a tape measure are not really visible so she measured from the 1” mark. Good for her.

Then she said, “See it’s 2-1/2” as she showed the bolt ended at the 2-1/2” mark”

I told her I would go grab the correct one if she didn’t mind.
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