2019 - Ultimate Yard Kart

[JTSpeedDemon]

EEEAARGH!!!!
It happened a few weeks ago, but it's still annoying me.
In another thread I mentioned that I ran the kart up on the curb, bending the front right rim and rear axle(neither of which is a problem anymore), but I didn't notice that I actually managed to bend the axle connecting the spindle brackets.
It shouldn't affect handling since the play in the steering system can compensate, but I still don't like a bent front end.
At least I can hammer it back into shape(slowly), but it takes a full on SLEDGEHAMMER!
I need to finish straightening it out soon.

---------- Post added at 05:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:31 PM ----------

Also the Clinton gas tank finally arrived.
It's relatively clean, but I plan to clean it up a bit anyway. The built in fuel strainer is also messed up a bit, so if I can't fix it I'll have to use an inline filter.
It's also the perfect size, so I'm real happy with this purchase!

 

[Budget GoKart]

Cant wait to see it without the cage and with the new tank!

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

^^ Me too.
Also, I have decided to change the name, since One Tire Fryer is a little too hard to say.
Since it has the high compression head from the factory, I have decided to call the kart:

The Hothead

Whaddy'all think?

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Other than the above-mentioned new name, I have figured out that I can remove the roll hoop slowly. My grandpa has a Sawzall, so I can use that to remove most of the hoop, and then the final cutting/welding can be done at a neighbor's house.
So that should be happening soon.
Feedback on the new name?

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Ok, I just spent a total of ~1/2 hr. trying to straighten out the front end with a sledgehammer.
Then I realized the custom wing piece/stone guards were keeping it from bending back. That, and they're getting in the way of me getting a good swing.
So, I'm just gonna leave it slightly bent for now and worry about it later.
Also it seems to have developed a clutch problem while sitting, because I'll start it up, and then the clutch will try to grab, and it'll die with a clank.
It's not hitting anywhere near engagement RPMs, so I think it needs some lube.
Either that, or it's just old and worn out.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

WHOOWEE!
Just bought a 555208 Raptor con rod for $14!
This thing is gonna BOOGIE!

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Yippee!!
The Raptor rod came today!!
Thankfully it should be a straight bolt in. It's also got a nice big journal oiling hole, so I don't think it should have problems with oil starvation.
I'll post pics when I get home, I'm currently at a Hispanic church party. Good food!

 

[Budget GoKart]

I think we i need your user title because i think im more flathead crazed then you haha. Also love the new name and no more buying engines for me i need performance parts!

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Pics!

Here are some pics of the new Raptor rod:
It's got a little casting flash above one of the cap bolts, but I'll just file it down.
What's the R1 mean? Raptor1 I guess??

 

[Randy H]

Some say R1 some say R2.

The one piece dipper started with the Raptor 2.
.
If you open the images in a new tab you can see some detail.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

My rod is a #555208 if that means anything.
What does the R1 mean?

 

[Randy H]

My rod is a #555208 if that means anything.
What does the R1 mean?

I don't know if the R1 means much. The rods pictured all came in boxes with the same part number. Some say R1 some say R2. I haven't come across any documentation that would indicate a difference.

Your rod is. 020 undersized.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

The seller said it was 0.001 short, but didn't say anything about it being 0.020 undersized.
Is it the version that requires the crankpin turned down 0.020?
Or is it 0.021 shorter than normal?

 

[Randy H]

The part number indicates .020" undersize crank journal.

I question the .001" shorter claim.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Dadgummit.
I just looked on the parts lookup and it turns out some engines of the same code were manufactured with 0.020" undersized crankpins. So there's a chance my rod will bolt right in, but chances are it won't.
In case it doesn't:
What model number Raptor rods should I be looking for? (with integrated dippers, of course).
If not, where can I get a undersized crankshaft?
Also, I have a friend that builds professional hot rods, would he probably be able to turn the crankpin down? What tools and skills does it take?

---------- Post added at 06:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------

P.S - I just measured the crankpin journal bore of my new Raptor rod, and it measures exactly 1 inch.
Are they usually 1.020 inches in diameter? I wouldn't think so.

---------- Post added at 06:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:19 PM ----------

Also, I found another rod on Ebay that's part number 555207, and it seems standard size, with integrated dipper.
Just thinking about a possible backup, but would 555207 work?

 

[Randy H]

555207 is the stock size Raptor rod. A stock 555208 rod is .020 under.

Stock crank pin is .998"

I don't know what the deal with your rod is, likely it got put in the wrong box.

Use Plastigauge when you assemble it. You should be ok.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Ok great! I actually just thought to look up specs in my Haynes manual, and it basically confirmed what you said.
Thanks! And I will get Plastiguage for sure.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Just to put it on the record, I measured the crankpin bore of the Raptor rod with a precision caliper.
The original measurement is in millimeters, and you can see in the picture the conversion to inches.

 

[wenee9w]

If its that close its a stock rod size.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Yup.
And My Haynes manual lists reject sizes for stuff like this, so it should be good to go!
Just need to get some plastiguage, a spare sidecover gasket, a spare head gasket, and I can tear into this thing!