Offer too good to refuse!

[Kenny_McCormic]

Looks like a nice winter project.

 

[jr dragster T]

Yeah. There seem's to be some kind of nest in my airbox too!

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Yeah. There seem's to be some kind of nest in my airbox too!

At least your box is salvageable.

 

[jr dragster T]

Yeah true. I just got back inside some a little bit of work. The back brake cable was a bit seized so I unlocked that with some Krown rust spray and its as free as new. But when I move the rear brake arm/actuater on the rear wheel its a bit sticky. I'm hoping just working it in will fix that.

 

[crazycart]

She looks pretty similar to my IT200. Thats gunna be a nice project. Looks to be a fairly big bike, how tall/long is it?

Old pic
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r52/squirrellrancher/10-16-08_1806.jpg

 

[jr dragster T]

Ohh she's a pretty big bike. But when I sit on it I can easy sit with 2 feet flat on the ground. The shocks are REALY soft and the guy said he has a nitrogen re-charge kit for them. But my question is what makes it leak in the first place? Then again it could have taken 15 years to leak out I'm not sure how long it sat. I think the rear wheel bearings are destroyed. When I hold the rear wheel and push it side to side the entire wheel and brake assembly moves like 1/8"+. I'm hoping it's just a ball bearing like I saw on Ebay. Also I got my clutch cable to work but it only moves like 1/2" when fully pulling the handle. Is that all it takes to disengage the clutch? Cause I know my cousins 125 is quite a bit more than 1/2".

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Cable probably seized up, Soak in WD40 and hope.

 

[jr dragster T]

No, It's not seized it moves perfecty its just not alot of travel.

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Strange, figure it out with the bike together and running. I would be rebuilding the rear end right now. You have a heated garage with room to work, take advantage.

 

[jr dragster T]

Yeah I was just about to take off the rear wheel and pull the bearings. Not too sure how all that rear hub works but I guess I'll learn.

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Internally expanding drum, like the rear brakes of an older car/truck. Just mechanical instead of hydraulic.

 

[jr dragster T]

So the brake isnt attached to the wheel? Like when I remove my wheel it will come off with the brake hub then I can just remove it?

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Not sure, never been there, Crazycart probably knows. I believe the rim itself IS the hub.

 

[jr dragster T]

Ok dokee. Also I heard from a guy that if you soak the plastic fenders in hot water it will come back to its normall shape. Is this true?

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Might as well give it a shot. Worst case pop rivet some sheet metal in there.

 

[jr dragster T]

Ok I got some work done tonight. I took off the rear wheel and the brakes. I cleaned out the rear brakes realy good and sanded the glaze off the pads and the rust off of the drum. The rear bearings are TOTALLY destroyed. The seals are like grinded right off and the race's are broken in a couple place's and have about 1/8 of slop in them. I got the old bearings all pressed out and ready for new ones. Only probelem is those allen headed cap screws that hold on the rear sprocket. There so tight and the heads are half stripped and it's like imposible to remove. I sprayed some penetrating oil on them to sit over night.

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Easy out FTW.

 

[jr dragster T]

Well it's not like it's threaded into the aluminum hub. Theres a nut inbehind the bolt thats imposible to remove. I'm probably just going to drill the head of the cap headed screw off and thats it.

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Whatever works.

 

[jr dragster T]

I hope I can get the tranny back together because it's all taken apart. Also the the intake valve met the piston at some point so It bent the intake valve and knocked out the valve seat. The head also needs some TIG welding. I can get most machine work done at school so it should be alright.