Engine suggestions

[BrownStainRacing]

The head gasket came in. What do I torque the head to?

Did you use copper gasket spray and washers???
These engines are not perfect and the head bolts might bottom out.

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[Chiron TL-34]

Did you use copper gasket spray and washers???
These engines are not perfect and the head bolts might bottom out.

Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Sealant 12 oz (80697)

Seal and protect with Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Sealant. Ideal for high-temp applications. Order now from JB Tools!

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I put the washers, but was too excited to wait for the spray. Man it makes so much compression, it really makes you tug on it to start. Absolutely screams, I love it.

Next up I think I'm gonna go ahead and get that flywheel you linked. I wanna get a little more RPM outta this thing without it blowing up. As for timing, this one has some advance, correct? I know you said something about how the cranks have goofed key positions, and therefore goofed timing. You said I use a degree wheel and check for when it sparks, right?

Also, you said not to drop the 18lb springs that come with the flywheel. Why is that? Just isn't necessary for the governed RPM range?

I really appreciate your help and guidance with this!

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I put the washers, but was too excited to wait for the spray. Man it makes so much compression, it really makes you tug on it to start. Absolutely screams, I love it.

Next up I think I'm gonna go ahead and get that flywheel you linked. I wanna get a little more RPM outta this thing without it blowing up. As for timing, this one has some advance, correct? I know you said something about how the cranks have goofed key positions, and therefore goofed timing. You said I use a degree wheel and check for when it sparks, right?

Also, you said not to drop the 18lb springs that come with the flywheel. Why is that? Just isn't necessary for the governed RPM range?

I'm sorry for always jumping around topics. I really appreciate your help and guidance with this!

If you are willing to spend the extra cash, this flywheel coil combo will be the better option.

I use this flywheel on 90% of my builds. It's probably 1 of the 1st flywheels approved for racing and has been around a very long time.

It needs a flywheel puller to remove it, as does the billet flywheels, but that's so you don't break or crack it like the cast aluminum will do if its removed too many times.

The Dover Power performance coil is the only coils I use.
I have tested 3 of these coils with a dial back timing light and they DO NOT pull timing out (retard) like ALL stock coils do.
Read description.

If you wanna learn how to set ignition timing the correct way on these engines, I can get pics for you tomorrow. You need a degree wheel and piston stop. No spark check or spinning the engine over involved.

Its simple, after you do a couple hundred or so, .
j/k it's really easy for people that wanna learn.

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[Chiron TL-34]

If you wanna learn how to set ignition timing the correct way on these engines, I can get pics for you tomorrow. You need a degree wheel and piston stop. No spark check or spinning the engine over involved.

Sounds great, lmk if you ever get those pics.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Sounds great, lmk if you ever get those pics.

You lmk when you get the piston stop, degree wheel and flywheel.

I actually forgot the pics today.
I gotta mock up a block anyways.

What you got this engine on???
T/C or clutch driven???

 

[Chiron TL-34]

You lmk when you get the piston stop, degree wheel and flywheel.

I actually forgot the pics today.
I gotta mock up a block anyways.

What you got this engine on???
T/C or clutch driven???

Lol alright. It's on a Max-Torque clutch, I wanted a torque converter but figured it wouldn't fit on a one wheel drive system (idk what it's called I just know it's not live axle lol)

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Lol alright. It's on a Max-Torque clutch, I wanted a torque converter but figured it wouldn't fit on a one wheel drive system (idk what it's called I just know it's not live axle lol)

You gonna go thur a bunch of tires!!!!

They are fun, and I'm sure everybody here started out with a 1 wheel peel or at least had 1.

There's a couple small things you can do to the clutch to help it out.

@JimD knows a thing or 2 about them.

I'll see if I can round up a video or 2 for you.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@Chiron TL-34

Here ya go.
I'd say your 2200 rpm clutch stall is fine for a 1 wheel peel.

@JimD could hook you up with more stall for your build, if you need it.

Im thinking 2800-3000 rpm clutch stall would blister your tire. And thats only fun for about the 1st 3 tire changes,

Post in thread 'GR question.' https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/gr-question.47417/post-593604

 

[Chiron TL-34]

PVL flywheel + ignition came in, but I still need to get a piston stop and degree wheel.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

PVL flywheel + ignition came in, but I still need to get a piston stop and degree wheel.

Did you get a flywheel puller??
Crack that flywheel trying to pop it off, will turn it into a $100. paperweight.

It might take you 3 or more times to get it set right.

ARC Flywheel Puller

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EC Steel Small Engine Flywheel Puller for Predator & Clone Engines

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7250 Flywheel Puller

ARC Racing 7250 flywheel puller designed for safely removing ARC billet flywheels and PVL clone flywheels. Ideal tool for kart racing engine service and performance builds.

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[Chiron TL-34]

Did you get a flywheel puller??
Crack that flywheel trying to pop it off, will turn it into a $100. paperweight.

No, I figured I'd get one when I needed to remove the flywheel because I'm thinking it's not a part that I'll need to remove any time soon. Am I wrong? Is pulling the flywheel something I'll probably end up doing soon?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

No, I figured I'd get one when I needed to remove the flywheel because I'm thinking it's not a part that I'll need to remove any time soon. Am I wrong? Is pulling the flywheel something I'll probably end up doing soon?

Kinda like a pistol.......it's best to have it and not need it, then to need it and not have it.

It usally takes me at least 2 times to get the timing set.
Once you get the nut tight, the flywheel jus won't fall off, If you need to turn it a hair or 10, .

It get easier, but 1st time takes awhile.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@Chiron TL-34

You should always have these extra parts when owning these small engines.

All gaskets

Head
Side cover (green or black only)
Carb gaskets and insulator plates
Valve cover

Shims
for end play and correct valve spring installed height
Crank
Cam
Valve springs

Crank and cam shims keeps the crank and cam from walking.
This keeps every thing inline nice and titey, less resistant, less drag, less wear and tear on the connecting rod, a much smoother rotating assembly.

Valve spring shims keeps the correct spring pressure.
Too little will cause valve float and not let the rpm go up and can drop a valve.
Too much will cause premature cam wear.

There's no such thing as "self adjusting" valve springs.
Or "one size fits all" valve springs.

Every head I have ever set up needed shims for the valve springs.
These are mass produced parts, and no 2 heads are the same.

These small little things is the difference in a run of the mill, NIB tiller motor, and a good, strong running, reliable gokart engine.

If you need help finding cam shims, jus yell. Not too many places carry them.

 

[Chiron TL-34]

@Chiron TL-34

You should always have these extra parts when owning these small engines.

All gaskets

Head
Side cover (green or black only)
Carb gaskets and insulator plates
Valve cover

Shims
for end play and correct valve spring installed height
Crank
Cam
Valve springs

Crank and cam shims keeps the crank and cam from walking.
This keeps every thing inline nice and titey, less resistant, less drag, less wear and tear on the connecting rod, a much smoother rotating assembly.

Valve spring shims keeps the correct spring pressure.
Too little will cause valve float and not let the rpm go up and can drop a valve.
Too much will cause premature cam wear.

There's no such thing as "self adjusting" valve springs.
Or "one size fits all" valve springs.

Every head I have ever set up needed shims for the valve springs.
These are mass produced parts, and no 2 heads are the same.

These small little things is the difference in a run of the mill, NIB tiller motor, and a good, strong running, reliable gokart engine.

If you need help finding cam shims, jus yell. Not too many places carry them.

I'm not gonna lie, don't know what shims are. Is it like a spacer for the camshaft to make sure it moves smoothly?

 

[Chiron TL-34]

Kinda like a pistol.......it's best to have it and not need it, then to need it and not have it.

It usally takes me at least 2 times to get the timing set.
Once you get the nut tight, the flywheel jus won't fall off, If you need to turn it a hair or 10, .

It get easier, but 1st time takes awhile.

Yeahhh I guess it's kinda risky to try to take it off to change timing without a puller..

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yeahhh I guess it's kinda risky to try to take it off to change timing without a puller..

You can put the flywheel and coil on now.
Use the stock key.
Set coil air gap a min of .045".
I set mine at .065" with pvl flywheel and dover performance coil.

That pvl has got some hot magnets in it, if the coil is too close, those hotter magnets will smoke the coil.

When you get the degree wheel and piston stop, jus check it. It might be right on spot.,
I doubt it, but close. .

When you get the flywheel and coil on, lmk. I show you how to pull another 400-500 rpm, and won't cost you a thing.

 

[Chiron TL-34]

You can put the flywheel and coil on now.
Use the stock key.

I slapped em on. It seems to hit the governor at a wayyyy lower rpm. Why is this?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I slapped em on. It seems to hit the governor at a wayyyy lower rpm. Why is this?

It's lighter. It's hitting it sooner.

Look up under tank and see what hole this spring is in.

 

[Chiron TL-34]

It's lighter. It's hitting it sooner.

Look up under tank and see what hole this spring is in.
View attachment 142004

This one

 

[BrownStainRacing]

This one

Thats odd, its usally in the 2nd or 3rd hole. The last hole to the right is the right 1.

Check and make sure your throttle cable has not slipped inward. Those hold down clamps are not the best. I put a small piece of rubber tubing over the cable to get a better grab.

Send pic of you throttle cable hook up. I might see something different.