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bob58o

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So what’s the trick to welding with with a Harbor Freight flux core 120v machine.

0.120 - 0.125” thick rectangular tube
same thickness “pipe”

Videos say to come in at a 45 degree angle.
So I’m guessing I should split the angle between the wall of the rectangular tube and the tangent of the pipe.

Then the 15 degrees so hand leads the tip and I can drag the puddle.

I think my biggest issue is not being able to see well. Like shooting a gun, I just close my eyes and pull. lol

Second issue is not knowing how fast or slow to move the puddle with this machine.

Should a 3” weld take 10 seconds? 15 seconds?IMG_6991.jpegIMG_6992.jpegIMG_6993.jpegIMG_6990.jpegIMG_6994.jpeg
 

bob58o

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I’ve already converted unit to DC.
Other suggestions just mention making sure surfaces are clean, using good 0.030 wire (0.035 might require more power), 3/4” stick out, and hold the tip in place for 2 seconds when starting to form the initial puddle before starting to move it.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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I have the can't see when welding problem. I got a new helmet. It's a yeswelder brand. It has 2 options for darkening weld and cut. There'd also a grind mode but it just stays at the light tint. I think its a 4.
Any way the cut mode goes from 4 to 8 and the weld is 8 to 12. IIRC.

I use it at 7. It was a world of difference being able to see what I was doing.

I also saw helmets with head lights. So I got a little head band light puck and taped it to my helmet. Putting a spot light right where I need it. This also made much improvement in my welds as I could really see what I was doing.

Other than that just practice on scrap. Lay beads by pushing, pulling, try vertically up and down.

Make adjustments to the weld power and feed. Learn the machine.

Listen to the arc. When you have it right it sounds good. Popping and sputtering are signs of a dirty base material or not setting the machine correctly.

Definitely a learned skill.


YESWELDER Large Viewing Screen 3.93"X3.66" True Color Solar Power Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, 4 Arc Sensor Wide Shade 4/5-9/9-13 for TIG MIG Arc Weld Grinding Welder Mask LYG-M800H https://a.co/d/0XLN95i
 

bob58o

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I have the can't see when welding problem. I got a new helmet. It's a yeswelder brand. It has 2 options for darkening weld and cut. There'd also a grind mode but it just stays at the light tint. I think its a 4.
Any way the cut mode goes from 4 to 8 and the weld is 8 to 12. IIRC.

I use it at 7. It was a world of difference being able to see what I was doing.

I also saw helmets with head lights. So I got a little head band light puck and taped it to my helmet. Putting a spot light right where I need it. This also made much improvement in my welds as I could really see what I was doing.

Other than that just practice on scrap. Lay beads by pushing, pulling, try vertically up and down.

Make adjustments to the weld power and feed. Learn the machine.

Listen to the arc. When you have it right it sounds good. Popping and sputtering are signs of a dirty base material or not setting the machine correctly.

Definitely a learned skill.


YESWELDER Large Viewing Screen 3.93"X3.66" True Color Solar Power Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, 4 Arc Sensor Wide Shade 4/5-9/9-13 for TIG MIG Arc Weld Grinding Welder Mask LYG-M800H https://a.co/d/0XLN95i
image.jpg

This probably needs cleaning, or replacing the glass/plastic, or just a better one.
It worked ok to view to eclipse.

I think bright lights will help a bunch. The welding was always in a dark place.
 

bob58o

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I have a tentative welding session with a professional welder either tomorrow or Monday.

I think he uses sticks. Or MIG at his shop. I asked if I could bring my machine and try on it so I know how to use it in the future.

Im going to try to grab some Anti-Spatter spray.
 

bob58o

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Apparently nobody complains about the lights dimming in the building?
Ain’t nobody walking the mile to ask those questions. We blame that on aluminum wires without the proper aluminum wire goo in the electrical boxes.

IMG_7001.jpegElectricity shall now be passed through your body until you are welded in accordance with state law. Roll on Two.
 

bob58o

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I have the can't see when welding problem. I got a new helmet. It's a yeswelder brand. It has 2 options for darkening weld and cut. There'd also a grind mode but it just stays at the light tint. I think its a 4.
Any way the cut mode goes from 4 to 8 and the weld is 8 to 12. IIRC.

I use it at 7. It was a world of difference being able to see what I was doing.

I also saw helmets with head lights. So I got a little head band light puck and taped it to my helmet. Putting a spot light right where I need it. This also made much improvement in my welds as I could really see what I was doing.

Other than that just practice on scrap. Lay beads by pushing, pulling, try vertically up and down.

Make adjustments to the weld power and feed. Learn the machine.

Listen to the arc. When you have it right it sounds good. Popping and sputtering are signs of a dirty base material or not setting the machine correctly.

Definitely a learned skill.


YESWELDER Large Viewing Screen 3.93"X3.66" True Color Solar Power Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, 4 Arc Sensor Wide Shade 4/5-9/9-13 for TIG MIG Arc Weld Grinding Welder Mask LYG-M800H https://a.co/d/0XLN95i

To use this helmet at level shade level 7, it needs to stay in “cut mode” correct? I think I understand the way this works.

Cut mode contains levels 5-9 and once I switch to weld mode, the same knob control switches to levels 9-13? So “all the way dark” on “cut mode” should be the same as “most light” on “weld mode” at a level 9 shade?

And just to be sure… you are welding at level 7? In cut mode? Shade Knob in middle?IMG_7003.jpeg
 

bob58o

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I believe shade level 7 is the minimum recommended for arc current less than 60Amps.
I don’t remember how many amps this old Chicago Electric flux core is? 90 Amps?
image.jpg
 

bob58o

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This might have been the video I used to convert the AC machine to a DCEN machine.


 
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