Denny
Canned Monster
Looks like a decent weld there Bob.
Bobs 2024 Build Off Build
- Thread starter bob58o
- Start date
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
The grind is just a shield. Stays at the 4 or what ever setting.
Then yeah the cut is the lower numbers and weld is the larger numbers.
You assumed correct.
If your talented try holding an arc on some scrap and turn that knob. You can find what's work best for you.
The delay is the time it takes from arc off to return to shade 4 or off so to speak.
The sensitivity is how touchy the reaction to dark is. I noticed when I put the light on my helmet the spot would trigger the lens. I turned it up till it quit flash darkening with the ambient light.
I'm no expert but it looks like you could turn up the heat a little. More penetrative into the base metal. What does the back side look like? Changing colors?
Then yeah the cut is the lower numbers and weld is the larger numbers.
You assumed correct.
If your talented try holding an arc on some scrap and turn that knob. You can find what's work best for you.
The delay is the time it takes from arc off to return to shade 4 or off so to speak.
The sensitivity is how touchy the reaction to dark is. I noticed when I put the light on my helmet the spot would trigger the lens. I turned it up till it quit flash darkening with the ambient light.
I'm no expert but it looks like you could turn up the heat a little. More penetrative into the base metal. What does the back side look like? Changing colors?
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I think after that I tried welding the O2 sensor bung in a gokart exhaust. After blowing through that and spending weeks repairing… I set it down and never picked it up again.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
That was an old photo from the old thread. It doesn’t look like the penetration was great from what I can see on side view of the end.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
A better weld with more penetration should show something down here when looking from side or cutting through the weld, correct?
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
That bung to pipe was a tricky weld. Gotta hold the arc over the bung and just waft it to the pipe as not to burn through. All about putting the heat where you want it.
Once you can see the puddle it will make sense.
And yes that's a good spot to look.
Not to knock your welder but those 110 flux cores are baby welders. Just don't have the umph of 220v. Just don't expect to do any thick stuff. For learning and hobby use I'm sure they do OK.
I've got a 220v little briefcase style and I find I have to still turn it up one notch higher than the chart says.
Once you can see the puddle it will make sense.
And yes that's a good spot to look.
Not to knock your welder but those 110 flux cores are baby welders. Just don't have the umph of 220v. Just don't expect to do any thick stuff. For learning and hobby use I'm sure they do OK.
I've got a 220v little briefcase style and I find I have to still turn it up one notch higher than the chart says.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
And on this machine, the amp settings are just high and low. So to turn up the heat, I would need to slow down the hand travel, correct? And depending on the specific joint, lowering the hand travel speed might require lowering the wire feed speed???? Keeping the wire feed speed high and lowering the hand travel speed will cause a larger bead, correct?
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Learn on crap, then be ok when you get good stuff.
If I can shoot a handgun with 3.1” barrel, wait until I get a sight radius of 6.5”. lol
If I can shoot a handgun with 3.1” barrel, wait until I get a sight radius of 6.5”. lol
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I let the friend of a friend use his stick welding machine because he was more comfortable with that. His welds, not mine.
Now we have at least 4 pieces stuck together to make a thing.
Look! A thing!
Now we have at least 4 pieces stuck together to make a thing.
Look! A thing!
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
With the race pockets oversized by 0.002” the races are still able to drop in (or maybe require a tiny amount of thumb force). So I guess welding the head did not overly-distort the pockets.
I will probably wait until the rest of the frame is welded before installing the races with Red Loctite #680. I don’t think attaching down tube to the top bar should heat up the steering head as much, but it seems like one of those wait til the end things.
I will probably wait until the rest of the frame is welded before installing the races with Red Loctite #680. I don’t think attaching down tube to the top bar should heat up the steering head as much, but it seems like one of those wait til the end things.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
I was wondering how your welding lesson went.
Here's my little set up.
And where I've set my helmet and the light.
Here's my little set up.
And where I've set my helmet and the light.
Master Hack
Well-known member
I measured the "test mule" at 1.8 thou distortion after welding. That slight drag putting the taces in is perfect. Here is why. (And why you want it like that.)
The cups (races) are relatively thin, and can get out of round easier than ya might think.
If the head were warped .0002 and the races were pressed in, before or after welding, the races would also be warped. With this application, it is desireable to have zero free play. To achieve that the bearings will need preload. lf the races are out of round and there is pre load, the bearings will have tight spots where the diameter is smaller. and loose spots where it is larger. The result is the whole assembly feels "clunky"
Denny
Canned Monster
Now drill and tap that head tube 3/4 of the way up for a grease zerk so you can pump it full of grease.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I learned that with sticks, I am the wire feeder and I am not learned in that yet. He did show me a trick where you can lay the stick down at an angle almost parallel to the joint and allow the the stick to almost burn off like a wick, filling the joint and moving the puddle along at the speed it wants.
We were outside today working off the back of his truck. I was able to see bettter than ever before.
Master Hack
Well-known member
No! Please don't do that. No need to overgrease it. This thing only is going to turn a few degrees. Not even going to turn a full revolution.
Just a moderate coat of grease is plenty.
Overgreasing is a problem itself. Bearings will survive with a lot less lube than ya might imagine.
Sorry Denny! Stick to belts!
Denny
Canned Monster
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Looks like an adequete amount of rake.?
We might be only able to travel in straight lines, but at least we’ll get there slowly.
We might be only able to travel in straight lines, but at least we’ll get there slowly.
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
More science for your appetite:
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I think I estimated 2.75” of trail before…
Original trail was 1.6” according to Z50 image below.
Maybe 27.5 or 28.5 degrees was my target.
I believe the original rake on Z50 was only like 23 degrees.
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