Bobs 2024 Build Off Build

bob58o

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Ok. It seems like it will work.
Depth should be fine. I believe it was set so the races would be seated with the edges not completely sunken into the pockets.

If for what ever reason the runout on the “inner tube” is more than acceptable… a few thousandths taken off that would be alright too. I’m not exactly sure the length of that “inner tube”. IIRC it was ~ 4.375” (I think I remember 111.2mm) ? It could probably be shortened by 0.025” if needed to make things flush. I am assuming the pockets will be cut all the way down so the race seats against the “inner tube”.IMG_6893.jpegIMG_6892.jpeg
 

Master Hack

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I/We have a dilemma. Minor, but a dilemma just the same.
The welds are done and l'm beginning the boring process. There is a small window of size where the bearing race (cup) is at a proper fit. That alone is easy enough, but is further welding (when the head gets welded to the frame) going to affect the size and/or concentricity? If l press the cups in here, then welding on the part could potentialy anneal them, so they HAVE to be installed after welding.
If the clearance is too tight the races may never go in if welding distorts the "pockets".
The proceedure to install the races would be to freeze the cups for a few hours. (Dry ice works extremely well in a few minutes)
Then while the "head" is hot, from welding and/or another source of heat, install the frozen cups. Do not thaw first.
So the best solution is to make the fit slightly loose. I will need to employ the SWAG method to determine the best size.
l'll also consult the Ouija board.
Stay tuned.
 
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bob58o

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I/We have a dilemma. Minor, but a dilemma just the same.
The welds are done and l'm beginning the boring process. There is a small window of size where the bearing race (cup) is at a proper fit. That alone is easy enough, but is further welding (when the head gets welded to the frame) going to affect the size and/or concentricity? If l press the cups in here, then welding on the part could potentialy anneal them, so they HAVE to be installed after welding.
If the clearance is too tight the races may never go in if welding distorts the "pockets".
The proceedure to install the races would be to freeze the cups for a few hours. (Dry ice works extremely well in a few minutes)
Then while the "head" is hot, from welding and/or another source of heat, install the frozen cups. Do not thaw first.
So the best solution is to make the fit slightly loose. I will need to employ the SWAG method to determine the best size.
l'll also consult the Ouija board.
Stay tuned.
Out of curiosity, why would an annealed bearing race bad?

would it be reasonable to have a second set of bearings and use one set to have installed while welding the head to the frame… then pull those out, reheat the head with torch to install new frozen bearing race?

I guess I haven’t really thought about removing the races once installed. Not sure how easy or difficult it will be. I don’t know if my design allows the races to be banged out from the flip side of the head?
 
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Master Hack

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Out of curiosity, why would annealed bearing race bad
I'm not sure if'n ya be funnin me....

Merriam Webster says:
annealed; annealing; anneals

Definition​

  • transitive verb
  • 1a: to heat and then cool (a material, such as steel or glass) usually for softening and making less brittle

Yer alternate plan won't do much other and waste a couple races.

52100 bearing steel is purdy hard stuff for a reason. Anealed they get rough then corrode and seize up. They always sieze right when ya open the throttle wide.

other than that...
 

bob58o

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This thingy is coming back at ya.

View attachment 149342

Awesome. Thank you!

Let me know what I owe ya and I’ll send the PayPal if that works. You can message if you want.

And just to be sure, the installation process is…
Put races in freezer.
Weld head to frame.
Allow frame and head to cool.
Put frozen races in head with Loctite #680.

With the expected amount of distortion from welding the head to the frame, should I expect the races to be drop in, hammer in, or will something more be needed (like a press)?

I know the race pockets are slightly oversized but not sure how tight it may become once welded.
 

Master Hack

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I know the race pockets are slightly oversized but not sure how tight it may become once welded
That there is the question, we dunno the answer to. Depends on how much heat ya put into it welding. Hopefully the races should just slide in without freezing and/or persuasion.
freezing was plan A. Assuming an interferance fit. I welded up a similar piece just to see. The report found the bearing "pockets" warped about .0018, due to all the welding being on one side. I consulted the Ouija board and tried to compensate.
Plan B:
Assemble at room temperature. When ya use loctite freezing will introduce water from condensation, compromising the bond. Freezing helps on press fit parts though.
Dry fit the races first, then procede when ya knowwhat to expect.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Egor installed a new playlist of voices in yer head also. Oh, and the music.....
Did egor slip out and do some midnight reprogramming to me? I hear music in my head all the time. Sounds like a muffled radio in the other room. Oh and the tinnitus. Could I get a 2.0 update to make that go away? Or have sitting in front of amps done me in.
 

bob58o

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Seems to fit.
Seems to turn.
Great Success!



 

bob58o

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Did egor slip out and do some midnight reprogramming to me? I hear music in my head all the time. Sounds like a muffled radio in the other room. Oh and the tinnitus. Could I get a 2.0 update to make that go away? Or have sitting in front of amps done me in.
My Dr explained to me that tinnitus is just early stage hearing loss. TV told me that once the tinnitus stops, I will never hear that frequency again.

I have pretty narrow ear canals. I find it hard to imagine that anyone feels the amount of pain I feel when taking off and landing in a plane. I look around and see people who are unbothered while I try to figure out how many more seconds of torture I could cope with.
 
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