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In general best performance would be achieved with a length of about 14" and an internal bore of about 3/4". You need to match the suck with the blow. So unrestricted outlets have a negative effect if your intake is restricted. This is why people say you need back pressure. A longer header...

I agree. Best done in a drill press I think I saw one in one of your photos.

By the usual size do you mean a 4" grinder or a 8" grinder or a 10" grinder? You said originally that the tube would be welded to flat surfaces so we are talking about straight cuts right? A cut off saw would be best but an angle grinder fitted with a modern thin cutting disk will work.but so...

What about a 351 clevo? That would be ok for a dd and have a bit of power too EDIT Even though I have always preferred GM offerings a 428 would be a good fit for an F truck. Oh BTW I used to drive an F250 for work in the eighties. It had a 351 and went pretty good. Had a stupid ford falcon...

Kelly I have a plan to build a rod like kart using a cutout wheelbarrow tub for the cockpit and possibly mounting a shaft driven motorbike engine up front to make something that looks a bit like a sixties dragster. Won't be for a while though. Got no time.

Here is a couple of pictures of one i made for a Briggs. I've described how I made it in other forums already but just quickly here it is again Cut the threaded end off the standard Briggs muffler now weld that to a piece of tube with an internal diameter of 3/4" and a length of about 14"...

Smiles are linked to the throttle at my joint too. My boys on the go kart and me in the Gen IV V8. Please to hear another success story.

Yep More than a grand of parts there My Oh Five www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=18728

40 bucks, no flash burns, no welding the job to the bench, I'd get one. I actually have two because I tort my ten year old how to weld. I told him you are only a man when you can stick steel together with fire!

Satincraft rods are 6013 as well With regard to auto helmets you can get new ones for about $100. There are of course very expensive ones as well. The only difference is the time they take to go light again after the arc has stopped. This is not a problem. So I guess $100 helmets second hand...

Lots of good info here. I wish I had seen Toystory's post on governor removal and the chance of flywheel failure. I ended up doing as he suggests and not upgrading the valve springs when I removed the governor on my clone so that the revs were somewhat limited. Also the governor arrangement...

My favourite welding rods are 2.5mm CIGweld Satincraft 13 rods they are good for just about anything including mild and galvanised steel. 3/32" is about 2.4mm so I'm sure they will be OK. I have used 3/4" tube to make a header before. About 14" should be the right length. Also my two best...

Flasher unit

Having trouble with your link Faboman.:confused: :idea2: hang on this might work http//www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=6.5hp%20engine%20motor&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_fln=1&_sc=1&_sop=2&_sticky=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283 :cheers2:

MFG have some cheap parts with good delivery prices to Australia.

Yep you get what you paid for! :horse:

That's why we say "full stop" in Australia because everybody hates periods!:biggrinjester:

You might want to run the headlights through a relay depending on the current drain. Also with the tacho there is normally enough signal on the low tension side of the coil (wire you kill switch is connected to) to connect directly to the tacho. If not you have to rap the tachometer signal wire...

I just saw a post from FatCat about a F-N-R box advertised on bmikarts web site for $245. http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Comet-Forward--Reverse-Gearbox-800350-3191

I think you have me confused with someone who is disagreeing with you! :cheers2: