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Where are you located? I would be interested in looking at the clutch on the engine. You are right if it was working properly it should not be that hot. You are engaging way to high, You should be getting springs to engage at 800rpm to 900rpm. How about giving me the measurement of the...

Mis-read your request and took pictures of the wrong item, thinking you said steering shaft and then read it was the jackshaft you wanted. He made his own jackshaft tube with bearing pushed in on both ends. There was a steel spacer in the shaft so the bearings would not be screwed up when you...

Here is what a 7" driven looks like for an INBOARD and OUTBOARD. You want as much of the casting on the wear ramp as possible for long life. It can be adjusted to make further contact with a washer that we put under the snap ring. The casting by Max-Torque (TOP AND BOTTOM) that hold the wear...

One of the BEST backyard fun karts made. Tube inside a tube, built to last. 95% of them were single seat which is the best and the safest. Bob quit building karts when product liability went over a $100,000. I will take a picture of the steering shaft on my kart when I go in back of the...

Box both pieces and ship it to Max-Torque and I will fix it before you wreck the driven unit. The Driver needs a bushing and I will give you some shim washers to correct the alignment. The guy screwed it up when he tried to use a cheap *** “V” belt. Then give me two measurements. Push the...

You are both correct, a series 20 can be inboard or outboard mounted but you have to specify which way you are going to mount it because the spring is wrapped in just the opposite direction. The correct way to mount a series 20 is with the ramps facing inboard towards the engine . If you...

More pictures needed. Let me see what the front of the driven looks like so see how much shaft is sticking past the nut. You are also missing the bushing on the driver which is going to move the floating sheave back 5/8" of an inch. The driven need some serious work on it before it jumps the...

Looked at the picture of the unit, Driver and Driven. Before you put ANY type of belt in there take the driver off the engine and clean up the sheaves until you have shiny metal again. Use some 180 grit sandpaper or emery paper and get the rust off. You can use some coarse steel wool also but...

A normal "V" belt doesn't work because it isn't wide enough at the top of the "V". It has to be .750 +/- .015. The "B" or 5L belt is 5/8" or a fraction bigger. The other problem with a regular "V" belt is it cannot turn the very tight radius of the Driver unit on the engine which is less than...

Thanks for the plug Denny. It is a Comet driven unit because the Max-Torque driven has 4 holes for the spring adjustment in the driven unit. All I was saying was at the end of fun kart building companies like Carter were mixing various parts to get the karts out the door. Some went out with...

Carter Brothers bought both Max-Torque and Comet t/c. The Max-Torque was symmetric and we only used a 7" driven. The belt may have been a MXT RMT 31.25 . When fun kart building in the United States stopped in 2005 some companies were mixing part just to use them up.

Simple fixes first before you swap out engines. The 5hp is fine and will work once you do several things. Not starting without starter fluid tells me you got a carb problem and you have a nice picture of where the diaphragm is just under the air filter. I would take off the four screws and...

The first thing I would check is take the air filter off the carb and have some sit in the seat and push down on the gas pedal and make sure the butterfly in the carb is opening up fully. You might have to adjust the throttle linkage to get more movement. That kart should get up to 25mph with...

Johnson Karts is out Milwaukee, WI. Depends now on what you are going to do with the karts. Since I see a crawler in the picture you could build a track but I figure you got enough projects going. The kart with the present tires is meant for slow speed maxing out at less than 20mph. It is...

It would NOT be a Horstman. It could have been a Hoffco-Comet SCS 400 series.

Did you also get the concession kart frame? It is way too heavy and the ground clearance is not very good for any off road driving. if you got the chassis, what is the name on the concession kart chassis?? Most likely it had a timing belt drive system since those are clean and don't get any...

Several things you can check out yourself is to make sure the floater disk are not warped. They would be the spacers between the plates with the lining material on them. Just take them out and put them on a plate of glass and make sure there is no room for a feeler gage to slide under, flip...

First make sure it has the woodruff key on the taper (half moon key). Depending on how new the engine is the key may be metric. The older engines it was 1/8". Are you using 219 or #35 chain?? Terry Ives in CA just had some new drum and sprockets made up for those clutches in the #35 chain...

The company is alive and well. I bought a clutch from them in 2021. They are well built and can take a beating. Disk clutches are more expensive than a shoe clutch just because they are more pieces and more precise. Like anything there is a special application for these clutches and racing...

What is the bore size of the sprocket 3/4" or 5/8""?? You are missing the insert that lines up with the keyway on the inside shaft. Where are you located? i can cut a piece of stock in either size and bore a hole through for your bolt. Do me a favor and measure what the length of your bolt...