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Surely if you bought a HF cut off saw with the cheapo wheel on it you could replace it with a quality one?

No you dont have to use a controller if you dont want to. This is my electric scooter I made, Uses a ford style starter solenoid. Full go or nothing. Way less wasted energy with the solenoid but no variable, But even if I had a controller I'd be WOT all the time anyway:roflol: My thread...

Lol how big is your Garage?

You can remove the entire low oil sensor from the block and that little gold colour box which the low oil sensor plugs into. All you will have left after that is the shroud kill switch and the coil ground wire.

No problem

Dont skip!

You use a adjustable pedel stop so you dont damage the carburater.

No, Do not remove any of those fan shrouds as they aid in cooling. In terms of "Junk" your missing the most important parts I'd remove for go kart use like the low oil sensor from the block, The governer linkage and gear and so on...

Read what the man said lol

$200 complete with mount and motor isnt really fair to Russ at all. Look at just the shear materials. As far as I remember he used 1/2" plate 6061 aluminum, Probably a good 1 sq' All the fasteners required then his own time ontop of that. I'd say it'd be easily into the $400's Then to make it...

Are you refuring to a product like prep-sol used to prepare surfaces before painting? That stuff is strong stuff!

Sweeet! Any videos?

I prefer combustion when they stay in one peice. I built one from ABS (Told it was fine and used by many) First fire on Alcohol it cracked in a bunch of places.

18 pound valve springs will be fine for a stock cam.

Anti-Seize compound is your best friend. Or else thing slike hubs/sprockets,rotors ALL seize on extremely tight. Apply the silver Anti-Seize and parts will just slide right off many years later.

Gotta love how Methanol has little hydrocarbons/ no petroleum.

Lol I'm being serious. Just a bit different then my Girdle :roflol: And yes it is actually called a crankshaft Girdle.

Hes been dynoing/porting sled motors all his life. Trust me, He knows what works and what doesnt. Sure Boyesen reeds will make it a little more snappy on the bottom here and there but V Force 3 reeds are by far the leading reed manufacturer. Go on a sled forum and mention Boyesen and see where...

The primary weights in these converters is whats known as the "pucks". Its the part that slides up and down in the clutch cover acting as a ramp.

On the dyno there hasnt been much of a increase over Boyesen VS stock. V Force 3 reeds are a awesome product and prefered by many racers. This is coming from a guy with over 30 years sled engine building experience.