Search results

Does your clutch happen to have set screws machined into it? Use those to lock it onto the crankshaft if an option. Maybe find something like these that slide over the crankshaft key as spacers. Kinda pricey though...

Why did you replace the carburetor? Agree with pancho, check your governor springs to make sure they're installed correctly. See if this video helps.

I think it is a GY6 engine. https://bdxperformance.com/products/twister-hammerhead-go-kart-engine-gy6-150cc-external-reverse-engine-guaranteed-fit?srsltid=AfmBOooKtRfUKLhnj7Z62W99Q9xwluMFL4mZCmNb_S9p-vRbuOWpU82f At least with the old Mopar car engines, the ballast resistor would cause this...

After spending hours trying to get old tires off and even making a homemade tire changer that was useless, I take all of my wheels and tires to the local tire shop. They have the right equipment and know how to change them out in no time. To me it isn't worth spending hours on them along with...

Are you able to move the governor arm coming up through the block by hand while the engine is running? The arm might be hitting the governor gear inside the engine. The governor should be completely removed including all internal and external parts if you do a gov delete.

See if this vendor has any suggestions. https://rdswebs.net/reliablegokarts.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&manufacturers_id=12

Clean up the floor along with the rest of the kart and look for stickers, labels or riveted ID plates.

Looks like a Carter machine going by the pedals, the seat back and the steering wheel. See if you can match it up here: https://www.bmikarts.com/Carter-Brothers-Go-Kart-Manuals

As illustrated, the shorter spring goes from one of the three holes in the governor arm to a small "loop" under that manual throttle arm. The other spring goes over the governor rod then one end goes to the first hole at the end of the governor arm to a small hole in the carb butterfly next to...

Glad to hear it. Like they say, when looking for kart help, why go anywhere else? Have fun!

The choke is an electric pintle. It's retracted cold to allow full fuel flow then as the engine warms up the pintle extends into the carb port to limit fuel flow. The 150cc engine usually ships with a vacuum fuel valve mounted under the gas tank that opens from engine vacuum. If the fuel valve...

Talk to these people. https://www.vmcchineseparts.com/collections/go-kart-wiring

One thing to keep in mind is the bolt thread pitch on these Chinese torque converter kits. Most if not all 6.5 HP small engines have 24 pitch threads in the crankshafts and in the engine side covers. The last kart I sold had one of these installed on it but it was rusted and worn out. I went to...

The bolt threads in at least an inch. Should be fine.

Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions. Ended up drilling the broken bolt out then using a 5/16-24 tap. I hope there's enough meat in the slug to hold the new bolt. Gonna pick up a bolt that matches the broken one, this one is a test bolt. Been a while since I had that much fun.

I certainly understand. As long as there isn't too much involved with making the kit work, it should be fine.

See if this helps. https://www.bmikarts.com/Throttle-Linkage-Set-Up-on-a-Tecumseh-OHH50-Engine_b_1018.html?srsltid=AfmBOoopfpTi2uliKdk8D2cRjqEVM7jTXwOgsVvsNQxB1NRmGbHGVTpx Those Go Power Sports Tecumseh carbs work fine, I've used a bunch of them...

This should be a direct fit. Pricey but it will save time and effort trying to force a "Fitzall" system on your kart. https://hammerheadperformance.com/hammerhead-parts/utv-parts/6150-7150-7151/brake-kit-for-150cc-6-000-229-kit

Agree with Denny. Disconnect the battery wire from one side of the relay & see what that might do.

That's the idea. Hoping to avoid broken drill bits, hours of labor. I've spent too much time on this heap already, just want to finish it up and get it outta here.