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I think this could be a Manco 405 model. Look for any labels or metal tags that haven't been painted over. Behind the seat, under the floor. https://landmaster-assets.american-landmaster.workers.dev/uploads/manuals/Fun-Kart/405_operatorsmanual_199410.pdf

Your best friends when dealing with this stuff are a multimeter and a 12 volt test light. Takes a lot of guesswork out of the equation. Jumper wires with alligator clips on the ends are a plus also. Stay with it, you'll get it. Post any results.

That was a useless link. I was hoping they would shed some light on the advantage of a belt driven centrifugal clutch. Easier to replace a belt instead of messing with chain links and stretched chains. Lower powered engines are probably okay with that setup.

Maybe talk to someone here, they should be able to suggest where to start...

Pretty sure how you can tell if it's a DC CDI or an AC CDI is by turning on the headlights. If they illuminate with the engine off it's a DC CDI. If they illuminate only with the engine running it's an AC CDI.

Hellion pointed you in the right direction. Post any updates.

Those machines shipped with a GY6 engine. These should be the clutch pieces needed. Not 100% sure though. https://www.bmikarts.com/Driven-Clutch-for-Spiderbox-GX150-Go-Kart_p_184.html?srsltid=AfmBOort8x6O805vFyhTWbNwpRq4sVS2S9PfEka-tc4GoP921-feULhJ...

This seems to explain it. Belt driven clutch as opposed to chain driven. https://www.lancereal.com/centrifugal-clutch-explained/#:~:text=A%20centrifugal%20clutch%20is%20a,start%E2%80%9D%20with%20no%20load%20engagement.

Here's the 150cc GY6 manual and a wiring diagram. The blue & white wire comes from the trigger in the stator. Green is usually ground. Could be similar to yours. Does the vendor have any ideas? https://landmaster.com/pdfs/LUTV/150cc-service-manual-14589R4.pdf

Finally got this heap running. New torque converter & belt, carburetor, coil, spark plug, air filter, rebuilt the seat, new front wheel bearing, front tire, new rear tires & tubes, new paint, throttle cable, oil change and fabbed a kill switch. Gotta do something with the blue footpeg grips...

You are correct sir. That is definitely a "one wheel peel" machine. I should have said "some models" shipped with a live axle. Thanks for clarifying.

The vacuum hose from the intake manifold goes to a Y or T fitting. One hose on the Y goes to the fuel valve and the other goes to the carb. If it's a T, a hose goes from it to the carb. Been a while but I think this is how they go.

Here's one of the Carter heaps I reconditioned. Getting the rusted split rims apart to replace the tubes and tires was pretty enjoyable.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/carter-brothers-double-seat-go-kart-6-5-hp-model-2906tr-3018-131253?srsltid=AfmBOopgI1rdNSoZrgEg9SoZ7WMpakJ0_z1Tz-WqlQHtkI6WDcJE8pzc#hotbar-description

They actually had a live axle. Needed keys on both ends of the axle.

https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Carter-Bros/Model%201875-3217/Model%201875-3217/1875-3217.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOopwHkjUQKzVOR5ah_ujJAHet807UB-L8qRsfxFkR5djg1UmUUT_

That kart shipped with a 20 series torque converter. Symmetric belt. https://www.gokartsupply.com/symapp.htm https://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm (scroll to 20 series)

Watch this video, I'm thinking your vacuum hoses aren't right.

Are you able to rev up the engine at the carb instead of using the gas pedal? You might not have the accelerator cable tight enough or installed properly. Jack up the rear of the kart and put stands under it so the wheels are off the ground and see if it will rev up. Could have a stuck brake...

"Firstly, that the center hub hole thing where the bearings go is kinda bored out. The new bearing on the inner side "fit" technically but it wasn't tight. It falls out if it's tipped. However, this doesn't seem to be that big of an issue because it's being held in place by the pressure from the...