bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Blower Housing...
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41E2161E-1B7F-4078-A9BB-FFA164BAD4B9.jpg
Predator Lighting Coil
- Thread starter bob58o
- Start date
zogthegreat
New member
Did you crank it yet?
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
No not yet.
I wanted to make sure the shroud fit, then I'll check the timing again to make sure it is where I want it. Then I'll tell EZ^2 it is at 28 BTDC. If the people want 28. Tell them 28. LOL. Did I take the extra 0.010" off the key? Sure I did.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Not yet young grasshopper. He's gonna GAB on the pull rope still.
Ya know handle ergonomics, rope thread count and difference between left and right handed woven nylon vs cotton
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Yup, just checked. Exactly 28.000 Degrees before top dead center.
---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:57 PM ----------
The good thing is my apartment is right next door to a 24 hr 7-11 gas station. The bad thing is I don't want to run the engine for 3 hrs on my balcony.
WTR knows I need to slosh oil around for about 2 full days, before I will try to start it. LOL
I don't want to use this dollar store oil for break in.
---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:57 PM ----------
The good thing is my apartment is right next door to a 24 hr 7-11 gas station. The bad thing is I don't want to run the engine for 3 hrs on my balcony.
WTR knows I need to slosh oil around for about 2 full days, before I will try to start it. LOL
I don't want to use this dollar store oil for break in.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Better
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ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
28* is for winners. Thank you, I feel so much better now. Carry on.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I cannot tell a lie.
It is 26.
I was 19.5.
I shaved the key 0.050".
I am now at 26 BTDC.
1.3 degrees per 0.010" shaved seems pretty accurate.
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Well, you told a lie, but now you are coming clean. That's ok. 26 will not work, you'll learn your lesson.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I didn't get lazy or settle.
I was reading a thread where people discuss building engines for off-road vs building engines for racing. With a stock cam, they guy went from an 8 degrees key to a 4 degree key and said it made it much better for off-road. Said he wanted to try the stock key and see if it still improved.
Lots of stop and go, low max RPM, no need to advance the ignition very much.
Mods on this engine would be milling the head, thinner head gasket, longer connecting rod, 19mm OKO carb, long intake manifold, long exhaust, and maybe the NR280-0211 camshaft .... You know - the torquey stuff.
---------- Post added at 12:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:49 AM ----------
Just talked to Russell at NR.
I told him I was thinking about using the NR280-0211 on a minibike. Basically for offroad. I said I wanted around 10:1 for premium pump gas.
I asked about timing.
He said 28. Just like EZ^2.
I said I was thinking about a 19mm flatslide carb.
He said he never messed with anything less than a 22mm for aftermarket carbs.
I asked if that would be too big for my application, and he said probably not.
Maybe I should defer to EZ^2?
What size carb once I decide to get rid of the governor?
Stock is like 0.650" or 0.675" (~17mm).
I was going to go with 19mm (.750").
Russell said 22mm (0.866") should be ok.
OKO 19 or OKO 21 (which says it measures 22mm)?
I was reading a thread where people discuss building engines for off-road vs building engines for racing. With a stock cam, they guy went from an 8 degrees key to a 4 degree key and said it made it much better for off-road. Said he wanted to try the stock key and see if it still improved.
Lots of stop and go, low max RPM, no need to advance the ignition very much.
Mods on this engine would be milling the head, thinner head gasket, longer connecting rod, 19mm OKO carb, long intake manifold, long exhaust, and maybe the NR280-0211 camshaft .... You know - the torquey stuff.
---------- Post added at 12:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:49 AM ----------
Just talked to Russell at NR.
I told him I was thinking about using the NR280-0211 on a minibike. Basically for offroad. I said I wanted around 10:1 for premium pump gas.
I asked about timing.
He said 28. Just like EZ^2.
I said I was thinking about a 19mm flatslide carb.
He said he never messed with anything less than a 22mm for aftermarket carbs.
I asked if that would be too big for my application, and he said probably not.
Maybe I should defer to EZ^2?
What size carb once I decide to get rid of the governor?
Stock is like 0.650" or 0.675" (~17mm).
I was going to go with 19mm (.750").
Russell said 22mm (0.866") should be ok.
OKO 19 or OKO 21 (which says it measures 22mm)?
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Voltage Regulator is Here.
I double checked the circuit breaker in the key box.
It is dual AC/DC
125-250V AC
32V DC.
5 AMPS.
This guy is awesome. The video has no relevance here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-mlPE8pxs4
I double checked the circuit breaker in the key box.
It is dual AC/DC
125-250V AC
32V DC.
5 AMPS.
This guy is awesome. The video has no relevance here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-mlPE8pxs4
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Since I have a circuit breaker and a fuse....
3 Amp Coil (4000 RPM) > 5 Amp Breaker > 5 Amp Regulator (2.5 Amp continuous output at 15V) > Diode 10A 1kV (to protect against battery back feeding the regulator) > 5 Amp Fuse > 18 Ah Battery
Hoping this works. Seems like the voltage regulator is the weak point.
3 Amp Coil (4000 RPM) > 5 Amp Breaker > 5 Amp Regulator (2.5 Amp continuous output at 15V) > Diode 10A 1kV (to protect against battery back feeding the regulator) > 5 Amp Fuse > 18 Ah Battery
Hoping this works. Seems like the voltage regulator is the weak point.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Well time to fire her up.
I got rid of the Dollar Store oil and got put in some "outstanding" 5W-30 O'Reilly's Conventional.
Going to walk the engine downstairs and to 7-11. Going to put a dollar worth of gas in and attempt to start it. I'll test the output of the coil and see what I get. Then I'll connect the key-box wiring and test the output again.
I got rid of the Dollar Store oil and got put in some "outstanding" 5W-30 O'Reilly's Conventional.
Going to walk the engine downstairs and to 7-11. Going to put a dollar worth of gas in and attempt to start it. I'll test the output of the coil and see what I get. Then I'll connect the key-box wiring and test the output again.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I don't think I ever started one of my engines with a stock muffler.
Holy Crap is it quiet. It sounds adorable.
It started on the first pull, but it was dark in the parking lot and the engine was just walking around. The RPMs were low. I tried testing DC Voltage coming from the end of the stator cable. It wasn't reading any volts. I had the other lead going to a bolt on the engine block. I think when I tried on AC volts it was reading 10. It was dark and I couldn't really see what I was doing so I shut it off. Turned the idle speed screw a bit.
Started right up on first pull. Engine speed was better. Seemed to run smooth. It was harder to keep the engine still so I didn't try to test the voltage again.
I only ran the engine for like 5 minutes. It's wet and windy and cold in my parking lot.
Maybe in the morning I'll hook it up to my car battery and test the starter.
Holy Crap is it quiet. It sounds adorable.
It started on the first pull, but it was dark in the parking lot and the engine was just walking around. The RPMs were low. I tried testing DC Voltage coming from the end of the stator cable. It wasn't reading any volts. I had the other lead going to a bolt on the engine block. I think when I tried on AC volts it was reading 10. It was dark and I couldn't really see what I was doing so I shut it off. Turned the idle speed screw a bit.
Started right up on first pull. Engine speed was better. Seemed to run smooth. It was harder to keep the engine still so I didn't try to test the voltage again.
I only ran the engine for like 5 minutes. It's wet and windy and cold in my parking lot.
Maybe in the morning I'll hook it up to my car battery and test the starter.
zogthegreat
New member
Sounds like your making progress! 
To bad the weather sucks.
To bad the weather sucks.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Sounds like your making progress!
To bad the weather sucks.
This thing sounds so quiet I might just clamp it to a table and open the sliding door.
zogthegreat
New member
Are you sure that your table won't bounce around?
You must have really good neighbors!
You must have really good neighbors!
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Clamp it, Jed.
Dude ur my hero, after you get the kinks hammered out I would love to read a full write up on this. Tbh I don't kart and I don't know my *** from a hole in the ground when it comes to tuning small engines, however I've got a predator sit ting on a mudmotor and I'd like to use this build for the charging system to keep my deep cycle battery charged for night fishing, gotta keep the lights and trolling motor going. Keep up the good work!
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Sorry Paul. LOL
I thought it was kinda funny.
You just walked into it and I had to see how many lyrics I get out.
I was just wondering what Adele was doing on a go kart.
I must haved called a thousand times. LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h0Arg_-380
Anyway I tested the output of the Kohler stator's single wire output.
I tested the same way for DC and for AC. One multimeter lead on the stator wire and the other lead on bolt in the block.
First tested on the 20DCV scale and got nada.
Tested on the 200ACV scale on got ~ 29-30.
Next phase of testing will be to plug in the stator output to the key-box and find out if there is a diode somewhere in there.
If I am getting AC out of the single wire coil, then that brings me back to wanting to use a full wave rectifier/regulator.
Which still makes me wonder how I wire single wire AC (which I guess uses the block where it is mounted as "ground") to a rectifier (which also uses its mounting for DC ground).
I don't think I can have the same "ground" for AC and DC. And not sure I can isolate the AC and DC circuits.
The only way I can think to wire it would be the coil wire to an input lead on the rectifier. A wire from a block bolt to the other input lead. The positive DC output going to the battery. I think I need a wire from the negative side of the battery going to where the rectifier is mounted (connecting the battery negative to the DC negative output of the rectifier). I think this would mean I would have to isolate the battery/rectifier/DC circuitry from the engine block?????
Otherwise I've read about people unwinding the coil to get at the other lead. I suppose this is to get two output wires and not use the block as ground???
I am not a fan of circuits. I know very little. Which is why I wanted to do this project.
I thought it was kinda funny.
You just walked into it and I had to see how many lyrics I get out.
I was just wondering what Adele was doing on a go kart.
I must haved called a thousand times. LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h0Arg_-380
Anyway I tested the output of the Kohler stator's single wire output.
I tested the same way for DC and for AC. One multimeter lead on the stator wire and the other lead on bolt in the block.
First tested on the 20DCV scale and got nada.
Tested on the 200ACV scale on got ~ 29-30.
Next phase of testing will be to plug in the stator output to the key-box and find out if there is a diode somewhere in there.
If I am getting AC out of the single wire coil, then that brings me back to wanting to use a full wave rectifier/regulator.
Which still makes me wonder how I wire single wire AC (which I guess uses the block where it is mounted as "ground") to a rectifier (which also uses its mounting for DC ground).
I don't think I can have the same "ground" for AC and DC. And not sure I can isolate the AC and DC circuits.
The only way I can think to wire it would be the coil wire to an input lead on the rectifier. A wire from a block bolt to the other input lead. The positive DC output going to the battery. I think I need a wire from the negative side of the battery going to where the rectifier is mounted (connecting the battery negative to the DC negative output of the rectifier). I think this would mean I would have to isolate the battery/rectifier/DC circuitry from the engine block?????
Otherwise I've read about people unwinding the coil to get at the other lead. I suppose this is to get two output wires and not use the block as ground???
I am not a fan of circuits. I know very little. Which is why I wanted to do this project.
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