Predator Lighting Coil

[bob58o]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMYHOC6/ref=psdc_10967761_t1_B0159W0UL2

What do you think?
Can I use something like this to regulate the DC voltage for charging the battery?
Do I need to regulate the DC voltage if spinning 5-6k RPM?
Guessing a 12V regulator wouldn't provide the voltage needed to charge a battery? (14.4V)

How would I wire it?
+ input from the coil through the diode.
- input from the ground (grn wire) in the keybox housing
+ output to the battery + through a diode
- output to the battery -

Set output to 14 Volts. Set output to 3 Amps - 5 Amps.

Parameters:
Input voltage: DC 7-36V
Output voltage: DC 1.25-32V (Continuously adjustable)
Output current: adjustable, 5A Max(please use it within 4.5A)
Output power: 75W Max(please use it within 50W, if the pressure difference is big,please reduce power)
Working frequency: 180KHz
Conversion efficiency: Up to 96%
Working temperature:-40°C - +85°C
Installation: 4pcs 3mm screws
Module dimensions: L 68.2mm*W 38.8mm* H 15mm

description:
Short circuit protection : Yes
Over temperature : Yes (automatically shut off the output after over temperature)
Input reverse polarity protection: No(if necessary, please in input String into high current diode)
Wiring: terminal block or solder terminals, V-IN is the input, V-OUT is output

Usage:
Use as a battery charger
Use as high power constant current LED drive module.
Use as a normal Step-down modules with over current protection capability.

Note:
1. Because the factory default output voltage is 17V. If the module can not be adjusted, the output voltage is always equal to the input voltage.When you encounter this problem, counterclockwise rotation of the potentiometer 10 laps or more, by doing this you can adjust the output voltage.
2.Because of Module output terminal string has a current sampling resistor, it is a normal phenomenon that there will be 0-0.2V voltage drop after connected to the load.
3.When its output is more than 3A/35W, please enhance heat dissipation!
4.This DC converter is single output, the output voltage of the USB port is the same as the output voltage of the module, if your load is USB device, please make sure the module's output voltage is set at 5V.
Packing including:
1 x Buck Converter

 

[bob58o]

This is waterproof and might cool better.
But says for 2.5 Amp continuous use with 10V - 15V output.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Waterproof-Converter-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B01H52OIN0
Module Properties: non-isolated voltage step-down module (buck)
Input voltage C 5.5-32V
Output Voltage C 1-27V adjustable
Lowest dropout: 2V, the input voltage must be higher than the output voltage 2V
Operating temperature: -40 to +85 °c
Operating frequency: 300KHz
Conversion efficiency: up to 92%
Protection: over-current protection; over temperature protection
Adopts synchronous rectification technology, high conversion efficiency and low heat
Embedding technology and aluminum shell, waterproof, dust-proof, moisture-proof
Wiring: Red: Input+;Black: Common-;Yellow:Output+
Conversion:12V to 5V, 24V to 3.7V/4.2V/5V/6V/9V/12V,etc.

Output Current: 5A Maximum
5V output: recommended 4A continuous
6-9V output: recommended 3A continuous
10-15V output: recommended 2.5A continuous

Please note:
1.This unit with no reverse polarity protection, please properly connected.
2.If use for battery,please install a separate output diode to stop the battery from feeding back and damaging the unit.

Package include:
1x DC Voltage Converter

 

[zogthegreat]

These and other riveting questions will be answered on tomorrows episode of As The Flywheel Turns.


Denny

 

[bob58o]

Just picked up a Hemi, there were only a couple left.
The rest were 3800 RPM 69730. I believe those also have 27/25mm valves, but with 5.0mm valve stems instead of the 5.5mm valve stems used on Honda’s, Clones, Generation I Predators, and Hemis.
I believe those engines come with a RTC-6, RTC-8, or RTC-9 heads.

$99 with coupon, not $94 but it is still a deal.

Kohler stator should be here today or tomorrow.

 

[Kartorbust]

Hopefully you'll have time at some point to see if it all fits together nicely.

 

[bob58o]

Hopefully you'll have time at some point to see if it all fits together nicely.

Time I have. Motivation to work in the cold, not so much.

Moving the shop back into the kitchen today, after a cruise on the Minibike.

 

[Kartorbust]

Hopefully wifey won't be too p'oed lol. Don't blame you wanting to work when it's warm, kind of hard to be motivated to do anything when it's cold.

 

[bob58o]

Hopefully wifey won't be too p'oed lol. Don't blame you wanting to work when it's warm, kind of hard to be motivated to do anything when it's cold.

My wife? LOL.
You mean the never-ending series of girls in their early 20's that I date for a month at a time? (Benefit of bartending). If they have a problem with my kitchen workshop, then they will get replaced.

I actually do have to clean my apartment. I have a date with a 22 year old Bisexual Latina chick covered in tattoos. I guess I like tattoos. Your loss Missy. LOL

I've been out of the game for a while. This is my first date in a few months.

Not sure I can compete against other women. Wish me luck.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

GAB on piercings and tats. Don't let us down.

 

[bob58o]

Kohler Stator showed up.
Bolt hole spacing is the same as on the clone coil.
~74mm
Now to find out if the bolts are 6mm or 6.5mm.

 

[bob58o]

Hardware store was about to close.
I picked up (4) 6mm x 30mm bolts.
They didn't have 6.5mm bolts, so I am hoping M6 is correct.
Haven’t started disassembly get. I read M6 x ~1.5” long.

Also read I need the Kohler Fan, which is sold at RUSSO powersports for $6 near me.
This was from an OMB thread, which I can’t find now.

 

[bob58o]

I think I got what I need. Time to start disassembly.
Remember Martin?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_l-6KsxVjc

 

[bob58o]

Craftsman 46903 $27 at Sears.
http://m.sears.com/craftsman-2-jaw-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIbso_f9y9gCFYOsaQodb4ILDQ
I use it for a Flywheel puller. It says 2-jaw large gear puller.
It works great, at least on hemi stock flywheels.

G’head and git you one.
Finger tight then 1/2 to 3/4 turn with a 3/4” wrench or socket. Should pop right off.

 

[bob58o]

Clone Starter fits Hemi block.
Uses (2) 6mm bolts x ~30mm long.

 

[bob58o]

Kohler Stator Fits.
Also using 6mm x 30mm long bolts.

 

[bob58o]

Kohler Flywheel seems to fit Hemi crank.
Flywheel Ring gear clears ignition coil without needing to add spacers.
Seems like nothing is hanging up behind the flywheel, so the stator clears the flywheel.
Seems like starter motor gear and flywheel ring gear are positioned to work properly.

I might be able to make the Predator Fan work on the Kohler Flywheel, but I’m going to buy the Kohler Fan so why bother. I should be able to use the Predator recoil and recoil starter cup. I’ll have to modify the blower housing for the starter motor.

 

[bob58o]

Real quick. Real dirty.

Lined up the flywheels and keyways by eyeball to compare timing difference.
Seems substantial. I’ve read the Kohler is like 19 BTDC where the Predators are around 24 BTDC. This by eye looks more like 7 or 8 degrees retarded. So maybe the Kohler is 16 BTDC??
So if the Kohler Flywheel is about 5 degrees retarded compared to stock (haven’t tested yet-based off another thread) then an 8 - 10 degree offset Timing Key should put me around 27-29 BTDC, which will probably be ok for this low RPM, mild build.. I'm thinking 8 degrees advance now, but that might change if I actually make/buy a degree wheel.

If the flywheel is 8 degrees retarded, then I’ll use a 10-12 degree advance to set the timing.
I don’t like 8, 10, or 12 offset keys. They break. So probably getting/making a degree wheel, maybe a timing light.

I don't know how to use the magnet and coil to find ignition point.

The leading edge of the magnet on the trailing edge of the second coil leg?
The trailing edge of the magnet on the leading edge of the first coil leg?
Leading edge of magnet centered under 2nd leg of coil?
Trailing edge of magnet centered under 1st leg of coil?

I need a picture of where the magnet is, in relation to the ignition coil, when it sparks. Then I can figure out what they mean by leading, trailing, first leg, second leg...

 

[bob58o]

60% sure this wiring is correct.
I have the low oil sensor connected here.

 

[bob58o]

Going to lap the flywheel in. If I can find my lapping compound.
Last time I did coarse then fine. I suppose I will so the same again.
I took the stator coils out. Should make spinning the flywheel on the crank a bit easier.
Don't think I will be using a key when installing the flywheel afterwards.

Last time I used an 8 degree key during installation, it sheered off.

This build will be low RPMs. 5000-5500 RPM Tops. Maybe even governed to 3600?
Since this build is centered around this flywheel, then I need to stay within the limits of a charging flywheel.

Does having magnets on the inside greatly effect the durability or upper RPM limit of these flywheels?
Who has tried a high RPM engine with an electric start / charging flywheel????

I might set initial timing to around 28 BTDC. - No Key

Or if the flywheel can safely spin 5500 RPM, then I might build for a NR280-0211 cam shaft.
This is what I am leaning towards. I hope the magnets hold up to 5500 RPM. They seem to be glued and screwed?

Hoping 5500 RPM doesn't mean too many modifications to the charging system.

 

[landuse]

Hey Bob....how did the date with tattoo lady go?