Sequoia Electrathon Racer

[Functional Artist]

Hey T,

The painted area (bolting flange) for the smaller rotor is just about 3"
...so, yup ~3.5" would do

 

[Functional Artist]

Here are a couple of more pics of the front suspension

* Notice, I aligned the shock mount "arm" with the CO shock
...& also, added a "cross bar" to strengthen the chassis, where the CO shock "extension arms" connect

 

[Functional Artist]

I made up a couple of seat "prop" mounting bars (for mounting/connecting the rear of the seat)
...made outta some 1/2" OD thin wall, steel tube (same tube as used for the A-frame bushings)

I wanted to "smash" the ends for bolting
...but, they gotta look kool!

So, I used a DIY die (I guess ya would call it) to help form a nice-n-professional curved feature

Insert the end of a piece of tube (to desired depth) into the die

Then insert the die (with tube) into a pressin' device

Then, press the sh*t out of it

When done, it looks kinda like this

...& this

After some roundin'
...& adding/drilling some 1/4" bolt holes, for mounting
...then, there were (2)

 

[Master Hack]

No turnin back now!

 

[Denny]

We could have turned back? Why didn’t anybody tell me! Carp, I guess now I’m stuck.

 

[Functional Artist]

We could have turned back? Why didn’t anybody tell me! Carp, I guess now I’m stuck.

Maybe your full of Carp ...fish for dinner?

 

[Master Hack]

We could have turned back? Why didn’t anybody tell me! Carp, I guess now I’m stuck.

Could have, that was a long time ago. Too late now.
we're all prisoners here, of " the device"

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey T,

My eyecrometer says that wafer looks ta be a bit thicker than 1"
...&/also, they say "if" ya scrape the mold off, it's still good inside

 

[Functional Artist]

Pics of seat "prop" mounting bars,
Just added a couple of bolting tabs to the chassis

 

[Master Hack]

My eyecrometer says that wafer looks ta be a bit thicker than 1"
...&/also, they say "if" ya scrape the mold off, it's still good inside

Yep, but the finished doughnut will be 1“ without green paint.

 

[Master Hack]

Today Doughnuts....

Truing up the slug. its not very round.






You'll see why later.



Now we need a hole. If it didn't have a hole it wouldn't be a doughnut, it would be a bagel or sumpthin.


When finished is should look sumpthin like this. A lot more to do first.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

No hole would make it a fritter I think. Or a ben-yay

 

[Denny]

Ben-Yay ain’t that what you spread on sore muscles?

 

[Master Hack]

Depends on which one is sore.....

 

[Functional Artist]

Yep, but the finished doughnut will be 1“ without green paint.

Just makin' sure my eyecrometer calibration wasn't "off"
...& that is a mighty fine lookin' doughnut

 

[Functional Artist]

Turning a negative into a positive

The 3-wheel, hydraulic brake system that I bought, for Sequoia, came with (1) 8" (rear) rotor & (2) 5" (front) rotors

But, my plan was to switch things around
...& use (2) of the bigger 8" rotors in the front
...& then, just (1) of the smaller 5" rotors in the rear

* Reminder why:
This brake system was designed for a (Hammerhead) kart
...& they have (2) small ~10" tall front wheels
...& (2) way bigger ~20" tall rear wheels

They use (2) 5" rotors (1 on each side) to control/stop the (2) smaller 10" wheels
...& then, the (1) 8" rotor on the axle to control/stop the (2) big 'ol 20" rear wheels

Sequoia is a (3) wheeled kart, that will be running on (3) ~16" tall wheels

So, to compensate I figured 8" rotors would be a "good match" to control/stop the (2) 16" front wheels
...& then, a 5' rotor should be adequate to control/stop the (1) rear wheel


Finding an 8" rear rotor turned out to be more difficult than anticipated
I found out that these 8" rotors sell (individually) for ~$35.00
https://www.bmikarts.com/220mm-865-Brake-Rotor-for-Chinese-Go-Karts_p_35975.html

So, my frugal self, figured that it would be a better idea to just buy another whole brake kit (~$65.00)

Then, I would get the 8" rotor I needed
...& also, would have a bunch of spare parts
or
Just have to design & build another racer Tsunami

But, when the brake kit showed up there was a big wet spot in the box

I think the plastic reservoir may have gotten stressed or even cracked
,,,but, didn't seem to leak too much when spread out on the workbench

So, I sent the seller a message (& some pics)
...& they advised me to tighten the cap

Nope, that was first thing I checked
...& the cap was good-n-tight

Then, they offered to send me an "oil can" (plastic reservoir)
...& I replied, "if" I have to fix it, I should get a discount

They offered a $10.00 discount
...& I replied that a replacement master cylinder was ~$20.00
...or (if that wasn't acceptable) I would like to return the kit for a full refund

* I was pretty sure that they didn't want their damaged brake kit, back
...so yup, I ended up getting the 8" rotor I needed
...plus a bunch of spare parts (the original plan) ALL for ~$45.00

 

[Master Hack]

Good Deal! Those chinese sellers hate to give refunds!

 

[Master Hack]

Todays big project.
Drilled and threaded two 3/8 x 24 holes.
I'm exhausted need a nap..

 

[Master Hack]

we like to "age" our materials here @ the Mt. Top Laboratory. We leave all materials (after rough machining) out in the rain to acquire the nice patina. It also helps to reduce stress and make machining easier. (referring to the operator's stress not the material)








I have no idea why pics make that doughnut look rusty. It doesn't look that way here in "real life".

 

[Denny]

It takes 7 seconds in the Midwest for rust to form on freshly machined steel surfaces. I imagine in the great pnw it might be less.