Sequoia Electrathon Racer

[Master Hack]

It takes 7 seconds in the Midwest for rust to form on freshly machined steel surfaces. I imagine in the great pnw it might be less

True dat fact.
the weird thing is it doesn't look like that. Must be a lighting thing.
here at the Mt. Top lab there is an "inspection room". With a bunch of climate change s**t. No,wait! It's climate control s**t. Anyway,the room is kept at 68F and 30% humdidily, some hi teck filter crap, bla, bla, bla.
things just don,t rust. (Visible anyhow)
l should see what its like in there, someday!

that thing about the "great Northwest" has been updated. We now prefer to be referred to as the "grape northwest". We have been over run by overpriced snooty fermented grape juice and their outlets. Remember way back when gas stations were on every corner? Here its wine. Does anyone really pay $80+ for a bottle of grape juice?

 

[Functional Artist]

I rounded up a piece of 5/8" steel rod
...& a couple of pieces of scrap wood, to set up a "prop stand" for the rear wheel (ta work on the swing arm)

But, there was a thick coating on the rod, that got in the way
...& wouldn't allow a 5/8" ID bearing to slide over it

I tried a quick scuffin' with some sand paper
...but, that coatin' was pretty tough

So, I thought ta myself "How would T make this sh*t, fit ta gether?"

Well, he would probably put 'er on the spinny thing
...& just "take a bit off the top"

But, I don't have a spinny thing
...or "do I?"

Well, my drill could spinn it
...but, it's a 5/8" thick rod (my biggest drills only have 1/2" chucks)
...&/so, how am I gonna get 'er "chucked up" in the drill

Hey, I could probably use an adapter/coupler
...which is a 5/8" drill bit (chucked in the drill)
...& a piece of 5/8" ID pipe "jammed" on the end of the drill bit
...with the end of the 5/8" rod "jammed into the other end of the pipe

My gloved left hand held the "cutter"

* Cutter is/was an old, broke in half piece of rough sanding disc)

Here is how it looks after a bit of spinnin'

Now, the bearing slides on nicely

Now, we gots us a "prop stand" for the rear wheel

 

[Denny]

True dat fact.
the weird thing is it doesn't look like that. Must be a lighting thing.
here at the Mt. Top lab there is an "inspection room". With a bunch of climate change s**t. No,wait! It's climate control s**t. Anyway,the room is kept at 68F and 30% humdidily, some hi teck filter crap, bla, bla, bla.
things just don,t rust. (Visible anyhow)
l should see what its like in there, someday!

that thing about the "great Northwest" has been updated. We now prefer to be referred to as the "grape northwest". We have been over run by overpriced snooty fermented grape juice and their outlets. Remember way back when gas stations were on every corner? Here its wine. Does anyone really pay $80+ for a bottle of grape juice?

And it’s spoiled grape juice at that! It ain’t even sweet. $40 bucks a fifth for Jack Daniels and you’ll get twice as shnockered!!

 

[Master Hack]

That “coating” or bark as it is often referred to, is just mill scale. You’ll see it on all hot rolled steel. It is just oxidized steel and crap. Your welds will improve if ya can remove it first. Being as lazy l am, l dip parts in acid, before resorting to mechanical means to remove it.

l don’t drink wine, but its everywhere around here. This is Napa valley north.
Don’t care for Jack, but XO will sufice nicely.
Shnockerd? Can’t remember when that happened last, maybe 25 years ago?

Oh, and BTW nice work K!

lf ya ever come across old reamers grab ‘em if ther’re cheap. Even dull they work for stuff like that. Reamers come in a million different sizes….

 

[Functional Artist]

"Wine is fine
...but, whiskey is quicker

Suicide is slow with liquor" -Ozzy

Notice how small a 5" rotor looks on a 16" wheel
...& so, a 16" wheel would have a ~3:1 leverage advantage over a 5" rotor

But, if using an 8" rotor, the leverage advantage (of a 16" wheel) would drop down to ~2:1 (pretty simple math)

I also, re-used the CAD caliper mounting bracket template, that I made up for the 8" rotors on the front wheels
...& just installed another spindle hole (for use with 5" rotors)
...& then, transferred it to steel

 

[Functional Artist]

Rear swing arm drawings

Top depicts a standard turn able front spindle (just a 5/8" bolt, welded to a piece of steel tube)
...& the lower drawin' is "an idea" of a dual-walled stationary spindle

The dual walls spread out the mounting area (~1")
...& then, the spindle/bolt can be welded in multiple places &/or on multiple "levels"

Swing arm tube specs diagram
...but, it's not really representative, of what I have in mind

Probably, something more like this

 

[Master Hack]

Today Egor and the Skunksworks team started on the rear hub thingy. There are a few things that can be done while waiting on the final drawings to get approved.
Any excuse to get to play on the spinna thing.

First remove the bark.



Indicate in the hub thingy.


Bore the hub thingy to fit the tube


Wow, it fits. First try!


Then we need a keyway to keep things in place.
The Skunkworks division reported that they do not have broach to cut "normal square keyways"
So after million$ spent on research and development a round keyway was developed.
There have been countless hours of testing this design on the Nerdbergring here @ the Mt. top.
The design has been proven reliable and durable,
The final key will be 5/16 inch diameter. To cut the slots the correct depth we need to go half of 5/16 = 5/32 = .1562 inch.

both pieces need the same groove. (groovy)

So it looks like this


Now where is the 5/16 key stock?

 

[Master Hack]

now to avoid boring the tube any bigger I had to resort to some creative hack errr aaah I mean engineering.

A 5/8 x 20 mm bushing and a stack of 3 bearings.




Looks like nutin happened from the end.

 

[Functional Artist]

Wow! Lookin' good!

1.) I don't think I have ever seen a round key
...but, seems ta be a pretty clever solution

2.) Most go kart axle keys are 1/4"...interested in the reasoning for 5/16"?

 

[Master Hack]

Wow! Lookin' good!

1.) I don't think I have ever seen a round key
...but, seems ta be a pretty clever solution

2.) Most go kart axle keys are 1/4"...interested in the reasoning for 5/16"

It’s a cheap hack solution to an expensive problem. A good (not chinese) broach is bux. I’m cheap, i’m a hack, and l have a 5/16 ball end mill.
for 1 or 2 keys a year its not worth the expense.
1/4 would work, but 5/16 stuff is all right here. The biggest reason is it adds another layer of WTF? to my stuff!
it works well, not to worry.

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey T,

No worries
...just wanted to know
'cause I'ma tryin' ta do some learnin' here, whilest watchin' ya work

 

[Master Hack]

cause I'ma tryin' ta do some learnin' here, whilest watchin' ya work

Ya need a better source for yer educational materials!

 

[Functional Artist]

Ta work on the rear swing arm, I made up a "mock" rear hub
Rear hub diagram

Started off with a 4 3/4" piece of 1 1/2" steel tube (as per the diagram)

Used a couple of pieces of 1" steel as the "spacer" to separate the rotor flange & the sprocket flange
...& used some 1/4" bolts ta bolt 'em together (ta hold everything together)
...& also, some welding magnets ta help hold the rotor flange, at the 1/2" mark (on the tube)

Just added a couple of "tacs"
...'cause, it's not really made ta be usable (it'll just be used for mockin' & proppin")

Another view

Then, added the wheel flange (using the same concept)

 

[Master Hack]

Rear hub diagram

Is this the final print? Engineering and Fab have signed off on it?

 

[Functional Artist]

Is this the final print? Engineering and Fab have signed off on it?

Um...no
...that was an older version

I just updated the pic (oops)

Yup, this one is

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey T,

Ya need a better source for yer educational materials!

BS
I wish I had some of your skills
...but, I really like watching a "craftsman at work" (that B you)

So, I figured that while I was makin' a mock rear hub, I would make it kinda like the original idea using (3) flanges

This is what I had in mind for a DIY split sprocket (just made up a plastic "mock" sprocket, for illustration purposes)
...& a split bolting flange/ring (the real thing)

By only welding the sprocket & rotor flanges on the "inside" (in between the 1" area) the "flange "faces" would stay "clean'

Then, the (2) halves of the split sprocket could be installed, onto the "outer face" of the sprocket (center) flange

The (2) halves of the bolting ring would help to align & secure the (2) halves of the sprocket

** Ideally, the flanges would be threaded (not using nuts & bolts, as shown)

 

[Functional Artist]

OK, back to the swing arm (AKA trailing arm)

Reminder:
Drawing

Welding diagram (lower part of pic)

Maybe something like this

...& this

A 6" weldment bold should be adequate for a 4 3/4" hub (right)

Well, that would be a NO

Hmmm....lets do the math

So, we have a 6" bolt
...going thru a 3/16" plate
...& then, a ~7/8" space
...& then, another ~3/16" plate
...& then a 4 3/4" hub

WTF?...yup...Um...I mean nope...it don't seem ta add up too goodly
...so, it looks like we probably gonna need a ~7" spindle/bolt

 

[Master Hack]

l get what ya wanted to do, and mechanically it would be fine. It would be a nightmare to build. The most difficult would be to keep all those parts, straight, true and concentric. The 2 flange hubs were a bichhh! I wanted to keep runout .005 or less. Had success with that, but, Welding that together complicates all that. The doughnut provides 2 perfect mounting surfaces that cant get f'ed up, without some serious effort. That just leaves 1.

 

[Master Hack]

5/8 bolt?

l'm ok with the split sprocket even, as long as the lD fits our requirement.
the doughnut makes the whole thing simple.
You'll get it when l start. I'll 'splain it all soon. I think you'll like it.
you'll be building your next two or three projects around this hub.

 

[Functional Artist]

l get what ya wanted to do, and mechanically it would be fine. It would be a nightmare to build. The most difficult would be to keep all those parts, straight, true and concentric. The 2 flange hubs were a bichhh! I wanted to keep runout .005 or less. Had success with that, but, Welding that together complicates all that. The doughnut provides 2 perfect mounting surfaces that cant get f'ed up, without some serious effort. That just leaves 1.

Hey T,
I can't wait ta see what ya come up with.

I'm not questioning "your work" at all
...I'm tryin' ta learn more about this stuff, as I/we go

But, I do have a couple of questions

My !ARRIBA! kart

...had, factory made hubs (they are now on the Land Speeder)

...& the hubs didn't have any machining marks on the flange "faces"

1.) Any idea what "runout" tolerance most production shops would use, for the flanges on go kart hubs?
...& how they "get away" without "facing" the flanges?

2.) Any idea what technique they would/could use
...or how (method or jig) they use to weld the flanges on as "straight" as they do?