Functional Artist
Well-known member
Yup, the rear swing arm & hub specs are top of the agenda for today
Sequoia Electrathon Racer
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
Functional Artist
Well-known member
What ya gonna do about A-frame bushings? 
Well, Ima glad you asked
I made up some DIY A-frame bushings outta some 1/2" OD steel tube (the ID is just a bit over 3/8")
...& some 1/2" ID rubber fuel line
They work nicely with standard 3/8" bolts
...& should provide a bit of "joint/junction" cushioning too
Well, Ima glad you asked
I made up some DIY A-frame bushings outta some 1/2" OD steel tube (the ID is just a bit over 3/8")
...& some 1/2" ID rubber fuel line
They work nicely with standard 3/8" bolts
...& should provide a bit of "joint/junction" cushioning too
Master Hack
Well-known member
Master Hack
Well-known member
Thats some creative engineering on the bushings! I love it when ya can build a functional puzzle out of pieces!
BRAVO!
BRAVO!
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
I spent some time working on rear wheel hub specs yesterday
...& here is some info to "run" thru the engineering dept.
Rigged up some stuff
* Coffee can lid is to represent the sprocket (dia.) & chain width
Another view
Checking caliper to sprocket clearance
Put 'er on a wheel to check sprocket to wheel clearance
Spec drawing
Outside edge of the wheel flange to outside of the rotor/sprocket flange is 3"
The sprocket would mount to the inside "face" of the rotor/sprocket flange
...& the rotor would mount to the outside "face" with a 1" spacer
Master Hack
Well-known member
After taking the elevator down 256 floors to the Skunkworks with your drawing for review, the engineers have come up with this:
Do the sprocket and brake rotor share the same bolt pattern or is the flange drilled for two different patterns?
Is the use of spacers going to provide enough rigidity? Is the braking "tork" gunna cause the rotor and flange to shift and become skewed?
Another concern is keeping the two pieces straight and concentric.
What is the diameter of the two bolt circles?
Is that a split sprocket?
Do the sprocket and brake rotor share the same bolt pattern or is the flange drilled for two different patterns?
Is the use of spacers going to provide enough rigidity? Is the braking "tork" gunna cause the rotor and flange to shift and become skewed?
Another concern is keeping the two pieces straight and concentric.
What is the diameter of the two bolt circles?
Is that a split sprocket?
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Master Hack
Well-known member
The elevator broke down and I had to walk up 256 flights of stairs, with your stoopid drawing!
Your idea might be workable but needs adjusting. The spacers you are using I assume are for mock up only?
The problem if you have a sprocket and a rotor with different bolt patterns how do ya bolt it all together?
4 or 8 bolts on the sprocket and 6 on the rotor? The rotor can't be drilled cuz its hardened. It can be milled but concentricity becomes a problem.
The sprocket can be re drilled but again concentricity is a big concern. Things run smoother when everything is straight, true and concentric.
Maybe I'm not getting something here? The bolts circled in red, need nuts on the other side of the sprocket?
Or if they are as I'm thinkin they are threaded for a bolt on each side, the problem is the same.
Please advise
This kinda s**t keeps me up at night!
Sumpthin like this. That is gunna be a bit** to keep straight and tight. The 1 inch spacers could be replaced with a split donut with the correct pattern drilled on each side. That would take 4 or 8 bolts on the sprocket side and 6 on the rotor side.
If the bolt pattern and circle diameter are the same then easy. I bet they are not. The coffee can lid probably did not have holes in it?
Correct me if I am missing something here and we can regroup.
Next time you can go up and down 256 flights. Elevator won't be fixed for a few days.
Egor probably just turned it off, he does that when he wants to be left alone.
Inga is probably visiting.
Your idea might be workable but needs adjusting. The spacers you are using I assume are for mock up only?
The problem if you have a sprocket and a rotor with different bolt patterns how do ya bolt it all together?
4 or 8 bolts on the sprocket and 6 on the rotor? The rotor can't be drilled cuz its hardened. It can be milled but concentricity becomes a problem.
The sprocket can be re drilled but again concentricity is a big concern. Things run smoother when everything is straight, true and concentric.
Maybe I'm not getting something here? The bolts circled in red, need nuts on the other side of the sprocket?
Or if they are as I'm thinkin they are threaded for a bolt on each side, the problem is the same.
Please advise
This kinda s**t keeps me up at night!
Sumpthin like this. That is gunna be a bit** to keep straight and tight. The 1 inch spacers could be replaced with a split donut with the correct pattern drilled on each side. That would take 4 or 8 bolts on the sprocket side and 6 on the rotor side.
If the bolt pattern and circle diameter are the same then easy. I bet they are not. The coffee can lid probably did not have holes in it?
Correct me if I am missing something here and we can regroup.
Next time you can go up and down 256 flights. Elevator won't be fixed for a few days.
Egor probably just turned it off, he does that when he wants to be left alone.
Inga is probably visiting.
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Denny
Canned Monster
All I know is the coffee can lid will never hold up to even an electric motor. Please don’t use it.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
It seems like just using (1) dual purpose bolt pattern (the (6) bolt pattern on the rotor) would be the simplest solution
Yes, we would need to incorporate a split sprocket
...& the sprocket (blank) I ordered (~$15.00) just showed up
Sorry, been running my azz off (at work) all dayThe elevator broke down and I had to walk up 256 flights of stairs, with your stoopid drawing!
Your idea might be workable but needs adjusting. The spacers you are using I assume are for mock up only?
The problem if you have a sprocket and a rotor with different bolt patterns how do ya bolt it all together?
4 or 8 bolts on the sprocket and 6 on the rotor? The rotor can't be drilled cuz its hardened. It can be milled but concentricity becomes a problem.
The sprocket can be re drilled but again concentricity is a big concern. Things run smoother when everything is straight, true and concentric.
Maybe I'm not getting something here? The bolts circled in red, need nuts on the other side of the sprocket?
Or if they are as I'm thinkin they are threaded for a bolt on each side, the problem is the same.
Please advise
This kinda s**t keeps me up at night!
As for "spacers" yup those "tall" nuts were just for mockup purposes
I was thinkin' we could use the same threaded thru concept
...but, using something a bit more heavy duty
Kinda like "tall" DIY weld on nuts
For example, something like this
...but, with the spacer/nuts welded to the flange
So, in my mind, the sprocket (after splitting) would bolt to the inside face of the rotor flange with (6) bolts (inner rotor represents the sprocket)
...& the rotor would bolt on the other side of the flange, on "top" of the spacers (with (6) other bolts coming from the other direction)
Does this make any/more sense?
Master Hack
Well-known member
Ok, got it now. ya didn't mention the blank sprocket.
l'm good with all of it 'cept the spacers, for the previously mentioned reasons.
Lets come up with sumpthin more solid.
l'm good with all of it 'cept the spacers, for the previously mentioned reasons.
Lets come up with sumpthin more solid.
Master Hack
Well-known member
Actually, i like the one piece sprocket. If l could convince ya to go with a one piece spacer/hub thing that slides over the tubing with the wheel flange and is held with a 5/16 key and 3/8 set screws.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
I am open-minded
...but, can't really picture what ya got in mind
...maybe "bust out" a quick drawin'?
Also, ya got me thinkin'
Just throwin' another idea out there
Maybe just make the rotor/sprocket flange (itself) 1" thick
...& then, tap threads right thru it, for mounting the sprocket & rotor
Something like this
You don't like the split sprocket concept? (they have been used on go karts for quite a while)
I would think having (3) bolts on each side of the split would help to evenly spread out the load
...& maybe even a "split" hub ring (big (2) piece washer with (6) holes) could be used to help secure the sprocket
Master Hack
Well-known member
YEAH! thats zackly what imma talkin bout!
BUT, instead of carving it out of a square block, find a piece of the appropriate diameter round stock and cut a 1 inch wafer off of it.
The split sprocket is fine, I'm just old school. Also the 1 inch spacer/hub/ring/doughnut/thing can be keyed to the tubing and be removable in one piece. (Sprocket, rotor and dounut) Eliminating the need for the split sprocket.
The benefit to this way is it will be much easier to make round, straight and true than a bunch of welded pieces.
Or get the split sprocket and weld the hub/ring/thing on. your call.
I'm good with it either way as long as we gots the doughnut, I like doughnuts...
BUT, instead of carving it out of a square block, find a piece of the appropriate diameter round stock and cut a 1 inch wafer off of it.
The split sprocket is fine, I'm just old school. Also the 1 inch spacer/hub/ring/doughnut/thing can be keyed to the tubing and be removable in one piece. (Sprocket, rotor and dounut) Eliminating the need for the split sprocket.
The benefit to this way is it will be much easier to make round, straight and true than a bunch of welded pieces.
Or get the split sprocket and weld the hub/ring/thing on. your call.
I'm good with it either way as long as we gots the doughnut, I like doughnuts...
Master Hack
Well-known member
Egor brought the other hub upstairs for QC.
If it passes QC then its on to welding.
If it passes QC then its on to welding.
Master Hack
Well-known member
FYI,
One of the rotor flange blanks was jut a little small. Wont affect anything tho.
One of the rotor flange blanks was jut a little small. Wont affect anything tho.
Master Hack
Well-known member
All the split sprockets I'm seeing have huge ID bores. unless you found one with a "normal" ID then the one piece ones be mo bedder.
You would need a 6 " piece to make the thing we be talkin bout.
You would need a 6 " piece to make the thing we be talkin bout.
Master Hack
Well-known member
The new quality control manager started today. He has assured me that your hub will be going to welding soon.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
I recently picked up some (1") steel material
...& just cut it into 3" x 3" blocks (Separate project: to give my truck a ~1" "lift" in the rear)
...& since I had 'em handy, I just grabbed (1) for a quick hub flange mock up
OK Sounds good to me
I'll check tomorrow ta see if my steel place carries 3" round stock
Functional Artist
Well-known member
The lower end of a coil-over shock mounts to the top of the A-frame
...& then, we have an extension attached to the upper end of the CO shock
...& the spindle bracket would mount about like this
I installed a steering shaft (5/8" steel rod) & mounts (1 1/2" tube w/bushings)
...then, after double checkin' tie-rod alignment, I got the upper CO shock mount & front A-frame mounting brackets welded on
Also, used my "patented" Caster alignment screw method to temporarily mount the spindle brackets
* Notice: how easy it will be to adjust & "set" the Caster before welding
** Screw to be removed after welding
...& then, we have an extension attached to the upper end of the CO shock
...& the spindle bracket would mount about like this
I installed a steering shaft (5/8" steel rod) & mounts (1 1/2" tube w/bushings)
...then, after double checkin' tie-rod alignment, I got the upper CO shock mount & front A-frame mounting brackets welded on
Also, used my "patented" Caster alignment screw method to temporarily mount the spindle brackets
* Notice: how easy it will be to adjust & "set" the Caster before welding
** Screw to be removed after welding
Master Hack
Well-known member
Just be sure there is enough material between the holes and the edge.
Round stock isn't always round, so its a good idea to turn the OD to make it round.
i need a minimun of 1/2 inch bigger material than the bolt circle.
so, if yer getting 3 inch material, the bolt circle should be 2.5 inch.
it doesn't hurt to go a little bigger.
l think l may have something, if ya have trouble finding suitable stuff.
Round stock isn't always round, so its a good idea to turn the OD to make it round.
i need a minimun of 1/2 inch bigger material than the bolt circle.
so, if yer getting 3 inch material, the bolt circle should be 2.5 inch.
it doesn't hurt to go a little bigger.
l think l may have something, if ya have trouble finding suitable stuff.