Functional Artist
Well-known member
Yup, can't beat FREE materials
The plastic is usually black
...it's pretty sturdy
...easy to work with (cut, drill smooth)
...& you can usually harvest some big flat pieces
Polaris
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
The plastic is usually black
...it's pretty sturdy
...easy to work with (cut, drill smooth)
...& you can usually harvest some big flat pieces
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Ready ta start wirin' this guy up? 
Let's start off with the On/Off switch
One end needs a plug installed, ta connect with the Power Lock" plug, on the controller
...& the other end just needs a couple of "tab terminals" (just totally forgot what their called) to connect with the switch (Oh, yea, Spade connectors)
To install one of these connectors, just bare ~1/8" of the wire
Place it in the terminal (the wire goes in the upper section & the insulation goes in the lower section)
Clamp them little "tabs" down over the wire & insulation
After installing the terminals on both wires, insert them into the plug end
Install (2) spade terminals, on the other end(s) (ta connect to the On/Off switch)
Then, simply plug the connectors together, on the controller
...& also, to the switch, on the dashboard
Let's start off with the On/Off switch
One end needs a plug installed, ta connect with the Power Lock" plug, on the controller
...& the other end just needs a couple of "tab terminals" (just totally forgot what their called) to connect with the switch (Oh, yea, Spade connectors)
To install one of these connectors, just bare ~1/8" of the wire
Place it in the terminal (the wire goes in the upper section & the insulation goes in the lower section)
Clamp them little "tabs" down over the wire & insulation
After installing the terminals on both wires, insert them into the plug end
Install (2) spade terminals, on the other end(s) (ta connect to the On/Off switch)
Then, simply plug the connectors together, on the controller
...& also, to the switch, on the dashboard
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Ok so, the "Power Lock" plug has a blue wire & a pink wire
...but, then, both wires going from that plug, up to the On/Off switch (on the dash) are orange
What's up with that?
Well, allow me to (try) explain
Whenever the system is powered up (Circuit Breaker "on") the pink wire is "live" & is the full battery pack voltage
...& when the On/Off switch is activated, it "sends" full pack voltage back thru the other wire, to turn the controller "on"
So, both wires will carry full pack voltage (48VDC, in this case)
&
In the EV "world" it's common practice to have most wires, that carry full pack voltage, to be colored orange
...& then, First Responders are trained to NOT cut orange wires at accident scenes
* It's to reduce the chance of them getting electrocuted, while trying to help folks
...& also, to not expose the ends of live "power wires"
** In DC systems, up to ~60VDC is usually considered low voltage
...&/so, most of the stuff I work & "play" with is LV (ta be a bit safer)
...whereas some of today's production HV EV's run at ~400VDC
...but, then, both wires going from that plug, up to the On/Off switch (on the dash) are orange
What's up with that?
Well, allow me to (try) explain
Whenever the system is powered up (Circuit Breaker "on") the pink wire is "live" & is the full battery pack voltage
...& when the On/Off switch is activated, it "sends" full pack voltage back thru the other wire, to turn the controller "on"
So, both wires will carry full pack voltage (48VDC, in this case)
&
In the EV "world" it's common practice to have most wires, that carry full pack voltage, to be colored orange
...& then, First Responders are trained to NOT cut orange wires at accident scenes
* It's to reduce the chance of them getting electrocuted, while trying to help folks
...& also, to not expose the ends of live "power wires"
** In DC systems, up to ~60VDC is usually considered low voltage
...&/so, most of the stuff I work & "play" with is LV (ta be a bit safer)
...whereas some of today's production HV EV's run at ~400VDC
Master Hack
Well-known member
Whoa! 400VDC? That might tickle a little
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Yup, this Chevy Volt battery pack is 360VDC (nominal)
...& ~390VDC when fully charged
In the battery box
Uncovered
Broke down into sections
An individual module (in the Land Speeder)
Me & my ElMoto (powered by a 48V 50AH Chevy Volt Lithium battery module)
I converted it back in 2017
...& the full conversion/build thread is right here on this here forum
Denny
Canned Monster
What kind of muffler are you going to use?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Cherry Bombs used ta be pretty popular
...had a nice little "crackle" to 'em
...& the neighbors love 'em too
Functional Artist
Well-known member
I got the Circuit Breaker panel (with Voltage Meter) installed
...& started wiring it up
This system uses 10g. Power Wires or Battery Cables
The Positive (+) red cable, starts at the Positive (+) terminal of the battery pack
...& goes to the terminal labeled "BAT LINE" on the CB
Then, it continues from the terminal labeled "AUX LOAD", on the CB
...& goes to the Positive (+) terminal of the "Power plug" on the Speed Controller
...& started wiring it up
This system uses 10g. Power Wires or Battery Cables
The Positive (+) red cable, starts at the Positive (+) terminal of the battery pack
...& goes to the terminal labeled "BAT LINE" on the CB
Then, it continues from the terminal labeled "AUX LOAD", on the CB
...& goes to the Positive (+) terminal of the "Power plug" on the Speed Controller
Functional Artist
Well-known member
I did some Metal Origami
...AKA a DIY Chain Guard
It's just a simple little thing
...but, it should help protect the Speed Controller
...& also, the back of the seat, from a potential "missile" if the chain was to ever break
...AKA a DIY Chain Guard
It's just a simple little thing
...but, it should help protect the Speed Controller
...& also, the back of the seat, from a potential "missile" if the chain was to ever break
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Something about that giant block of batteries triggers an "unsafe" warning in my head. Like a barrel of dynamite.
BaconBitRacing
Well-known member
It gave me the freaks too, I guess I fear what I don't understand... Or maybe it's just self-preservation
Good work FA!
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Try not to worry too much, they have many, many safety protocols in place
...so, they are about as safe, rolling down the highway, as a semi-tanker full of gasoline (liquid dynamite)
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Thanks!It gave me the freaks too, I guess I fear what I don't understand... Or maybe it's just self-preservation
Good work FA!
Once the battery cables & buss bars are removed
...you just have (8) individual 48V 50AH modules
...& so, they are much safer to work with
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Notice, that I oriented the Speed Controller so the wiring & connecting plugs, would be toward the back end of the motor
...ta keep 'em away from the spinning sprocket & chain
...& from any oil & grime that may come "flying off of it"
Speed Controller is a Mode1: YK31C (I think that (1) should be an "L") ...Chinesium?
Specifications:
Rated Voltage: 48VDC (means that it's for use with 48V systems)
Power Rating: 1,000W (means that it's for use with up to 1,000W motors)
Under Voltage: 42V+/- 0.5V (means that the controller will "shut the system down" at ~42V to protect the battery pack)
...& the +/- 0.5V (means that there is a 0.5V variable so, it will shut down somewhere/anywhere in between 41.5V & 42.5V)
Handle: 1-4V (means that the controller is set up for use with a 1-4V Hall Effect type Throttle)
Connections:
Speed Adjustment: Connect to the Throttle
Brake: (signal) Connect to the Brake light switch
Indicateor light: Connect to the Voltage meter
Electric Lock: Connect to the On/Off switch
Motor: Connector to the motor
Battery: Connect to the battery cables
* Not shown are the connectors for the Brake light & also, the Charge Port
...ta keep 'em away from the spinning sprocket & chain
...& from any oil & grime that may come "flying off of it"
Speed Controller is a Mode1: YK31C (I think that (1) should be an "L") ...Chinesium?
Specifications:
Rated Voltage: 48VDC (means that it's for use with 48V systems)
Power Rating: 1,000W (means that it's for use with up to 1,000W motors)
Under Voltage: 42V+/- 0.5V (means that the controller will "shut the system down" at ~42V to protect the battery pack)
...& the +/- 0.5V (means that there is a 0.5V variable so, it will shut down somewhere/anywhere in between 41.5V & 42.5V)
Handle: 1-4V (means that the controller is set up for use with a 1-4V Hall Effect type Throttle)
Connections:
Speed Adjustment: Connect to the Throttle
Brake: (signal) Connect to the Brake light switch
Indicateor light: Connect to the Voltage meter
Electric Lock: Connect to the On/Off switch
Motor: Connector to the motor
Battery: Connect to the battery cables
* Not shown are the connectors for the Brake light & also, the Charge Port
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Are you'all ready for a first systems check?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Quote from the previous video: "I think we "smoked" that motor"
Well,
I was justa tryin' ta see if I could get a little bit "more" out of it
...but, I guess NOT
FYI: Last summer I first tried testing that little 48V 1,000W motor, on my Hell-raiser kart
...powered by a 48V 400A Kell controller (instead of the proper size 48V 20A controller)
&
The kart zipped right along
...was very peppy
...& even did a couple of donuts (~2.55)
But,
When, flames started shooting out of the ventilation holes, of the motor (~3.25)
...that's when...I realized...that...I f'd up
So,
Don't blame the motor
...that one, was "my bad"
Well,
I was justa tryin' ta see if I could get a little bit "more" out of it
...but, I guess NOT
FYI: Last summer I first tried testing that little 48V 1,000W motor, on my Hell-raiser kart
...powered by a 48V 400A Kell controller (instead of the proper size 48V 20A controller)
&
The kart zipped right along
...was very peppy
...& even did a couple of donuts (~2.55)
But,
When, flames started shooting out of the ventilation holes, of the motor (~3.25)
...that's when...I realized...that...I f'd up
So,
Don't blame the motor
...that one, was "my bad"
Denny
Canned Monster
Nitromethane is actually called liquid dynamite. Because of that it is illegal to buy in large quantities unless you have a license and permit from The Department of Homeland Security.
It’s not to late Harbor Freight has Predators still for sale!
It’s not to late Harbor Freight has Predators still for sale!
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey Denny,
I still have a HF 6.5HP Greyhound engine, from way back when before they changed the name to Predator
...but, they were blue
I've been using it as a "door stop" for years
...works great!
Denny
Canned Monster
Picture me with my head in my hand just shaking it. Thinking oh boy, when will he learn.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey Denny,
It'll be OK
Take your meds get ya some popcorn
...& watch this video of a couple of my older karts (Torsk & Cotton Candy)
It's (1) of my favorite (& most dear to my heart) videos
* Both karts are powered by this same 48V 1,000W motor, YK-31 controller & (4) 12V 12AH SLA battery combo
...& this is how they should/usually perform
Enjoy
It'll be OK
Take your meds get ya some popcorn
...& watch this video of a couple of my older karts (Torsk & Cotton Candy)
It's (1) of my favorite (& most dear to my heart) videos
* Both karts are powered by this same 48V 1,000W motor, YK-31 controller & (4) 12V 12AH SLA battery combo
...& this is how they should/usually perform
Enjoy