Polaris

[Functional Artist]

After lowering the rear wheel ~2"
...now we have some chain clearance issues

So, I did a little surgery with the Dremel

Then, used my "Fender Bender" ta bend(er) the fender

Had ta use the Metric side (as the fender is Metric)

Yup, that looks better

 

[Denny]

Hey Denny,
Are you referring to the rear wheel adapters?

Their purpose is to raise the rear of chassis ~2"

Before the GC was only ~1 1/2"
...& now we have ~3 1/2"

But you’re still avoiding the question. Sit in the kart and have someone shake it from side to side and see how much it flexes. It may even screw with chain alignment?

 

[Functional Artist]

Ta even the chassis out, after raising the rear, I set 'er up nice-n-level

Gotta drop them front wheels quite a bit

Did some dis-assembly

Then, worked on chopping the "Boss Tubes" off

Cleaned 'em up "like it never even happened"

Then, I had ta find a "Spindle Tube Setter" (I've heard of 'em but, never seen one)

 

[Functional Artist]

But you’re still avoiding the question. Sit in the kart and have someone shake it from side to side and see how much it flexes. It may even screw with chain alignment?

Hey Denny,
When designing & contemplating how to raise the chassis I also wondered/thought about potentially increased flexing, back there
...& so, I made the adapters outta 3/16" steel instead of 1/8"
...& will also use a couple of probably ~5/16" nuts & bolts (above & below the 1/2" attachment bolt) to help secure & stiffen the junction

* This will also help alleviate another concern that I have about the rear wheel potentially coming loose (&/or possibly off)

The chain should stop the rear wheel from actually coming off of the vehicle
...but, "if" the wheel became loose, the chain could "pop off" & "bind up" the rear wheel, causing a loss of control
...or the chain could actually break & the wheel could actually come off

BUT, NOT NO MORE

Yup, I tried the "shake" test, in the rear (& in the front too)
...& the plastic wheels & tires seem to be doin' all of the flexin'

 

[Denny]

Cool! I just didn’t want to hear you watched from the sidelines because the back of the frame broke or twisted. By the way weld is lighter than bolts. Just sayin.

 

[Master Hack]

...& will also use a couple of probably ~5/16" nuts & bolts (above & below the 1/2" attachment bolt) to help secure & stiffen the junction

Yeah, I think you should at least pin the new adaptor plate somehow so it can't pivot on the old attachment point.

 

[Functional Artist]

I used the Spindle Setter to re-installed the Boss Tubes
...so, the chassis would sit (hopefully) ~1 1/2" higher, in the front

While I was at it, I re-set the Castor to ~10*
...but, reduced the Camber to ~5* (because, the wheels seemed ta "lean" too much & I didn't like it)

The Worm drive clamp is used to "hold" the Castor, after it's manually set
...& the patented "L" bracket, is used for precisely setting the Camber

I think "we got this"
...so, I went ahead & welded the Boss Tubes on good-n-solid
...& even sealed 'em up too

Surprise inspection

Re-assembled

Schmoosin' the inspector

The front now sits at ~2 1/2"

...& the rear is up to ~3 1/2"

 

[Functional Artist]

Cool! I just didn’t want to hear you watched from the sidelines because the back of the frame broke or twisted. By the way weld is lighter than bolts. Just sayin.

Hey Denny,
I made up another set of adapters (V2) that don't use a slot for mounting the wheel
...so, we can't weld the adapter brackets on, as they are still used for chain adjustment
...it now works by "cam" action, instead of a slide mechanism

Somehow, I didn't take any pics of V2
...but, here is a pic, of using V1 as a template, ta make V2

This helped tremendously with alignment

Because having (2) adjustment slots horizontally
...& also, (2) adjustment slots vertically, was a total nightmare

 

[Functional Artist]

Yeah, I think you should at least pin the new adaptor plate somehow so it can't pivot on the old attachment point.

Yup, I agree
...just wanted ta make sure everything was gonna "play nice together" first

Hey T,
These wheels justa keepa spinnin' & spinnin' & spinnin'
...is there a problem???

 

[Denny]

Surprised you didn’t take it for a spin?

 

[Master Hack]

These wheels justa keepa spinnin' & spinnin' & spinnin'
...is there a problem???

Well yeah. If ya like friction!
Maybe ya slayed the friction demon!

 

[Functional Artist]

Yeah, I think you should at least pin the new adaptor plate somehow so it can't pivot on the old attachment point.

For additional strength & support, I was thinkin' something about like this

Here is the other side
...drilled the axle & added a Castle Nut too

 

[Master Hack]

I approve! I can sign off on it if ya need.

 

[Functional Artist]

Surprised you didn’t take it for a spin?

Hey Denny,
So, far I've only had a chance to do a rough alignment in the front (front wheel to front wheel)

I need to align the (3) wheels, all together, with each other
...then, try-n-fine tune the front wheel alignment, a bit

To get 'er aligned, I'm wasa thinkin' maybe something about like this

So, I established a couple of straight lines (down each side of the rear wheel) first

Then, squared the front wheels, with those lines (established by the rear wheels)
...& then, "Toed" the wheel inwards ~1/8"

I did the other side too

Yup, made another video (update) too

* I did a "wiggle test" for ya
...& then, ran across a self-inflicted throttle issue

 

[Denny]

Did you make sure that the humidity did not warp the wood boards first? Aaaaaa! I’m just kidding! Looks good man.

 

[Functional Artist]

Did you make sure that the humidity did not warp the wood boards first? Aaaaaa! I’m just kidding! Looks good man.

Thanks Denny,
Ya better get comfy
...we got's us a test ride video?

 

[Master Hack]

Outstanding! No smoke, no fire, no self detaching parts!
looks great! Everything working within design parameters?

 

[Denny]

Yay! It moves! Sounds a little bangy and the suspension seems stiff but ok!
One question. If you do a burnout with the green tires does it leave a green mark? Make green smoke?

 

[Master Hack]

Maybe l missed it, when is the big event?

or maybe l forgot, naw probably just missed it….

 

[Functional Artist]

Outstanding! No smoke, no fire, no self detaching parts!
looks great! Everything working within design parameters?

Hey T,
Thank you, sir!

Yup, it seemed to perform pretty much as anticipated
...we came back with all of the parts that we left with
...& everything seemed to operate within their specified parameters

Yay! It moves! Sounds a little bangy and the suspension seems stiff but ok!
One question. If you do a burnout with the green tires does it leave a green mark? Make green smoke?

Hey Denny,
Thank you, sir!

I think them bangy sounds, were coming from that 50 lb. chunk of lead "battery pack"
...that was only "strapped in" with a ratchet strap

Um...there isn't any suspension
...so, yup the ride is kinda ridged

It's not geared ta do "burn outs"
...so, no green marks
...or smoke

Maybe l missed it, when is the big event?

or maybe l forgot, naw probably just missed it….

Well, the Electrathon America program is geared toward student teams (High School &/or Colledge)
...& they usually design, build & work on a car, throughout the school year
...& then, test & race them at the end of the school year (usually sometime around April, May or June)

From what I've learned, they have been doing this for years (like over 20 years)
...but, I only just found out about it around (2) months ago

* I love designing & building things
...& this program seems so kool
...& "right up my alley"
...so, I "jumped in" took a self-inflicted "crash course" in the Electrathon America Rule Book
...& started building a racer

There's a lot more testing of this kart
...& analyzing of data, to do
...& we haven't even got to the Lithium battery pack yet