Polaris

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Buy why don’t you own an electric car?
I have a street legal electric motorcycle
...& I've put almost 2,000 miles on it, since the conversion ;)

No time, for a car
...I'ma too busy towing other folks cars (for the mulah) :cool:
...& designin' & buildin' my own stuff :thumbsup:

* FYI:
I sold my last car (a Black on Black on Black, 1972 Monte Carlo) back in 1991, ta make a truck payment o_O
...'cause my truck makes me money
...& the car does just the opposite :devil2:

* FYI 2:
My left brain had been workin' on a full size street legal Morgan type vehicle
...but then, I heard about Electrathon America
...& "off" I went :ROFLMAO:
 

Denny

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Sounds like you’re saying the electric car technology is not quite up to snuff yet. :stir::sifone: Why isn’t your truck powered by electricity yet?
 

Functional Artist

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Sounds like you’re saying the electric car technology is not quite up to snuff yet. :stir::sifone: Why isn’t your truck powered by electricity yet?
Hey Denny,
Take a ride in a Tesla
...& then, you tell me "if" it's up to snuff :thumbsup:

...& their workin' on a semi truck too :p

Back to Polaris, I removed the motor
...& did an autopsy 🤓

Yup, we burnt some stuff
SAM_0819.JPG
Close up (actually burned-out sections of the wire)
SAM_0823.JPG
Damaged the brush holder too
SAM_0826.JPG
Another close up
SAM_0827.JPG
 

ezcome-ezgo

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That stinks. But we know you are up to the task of repair! Tow companies around here are making a comfortable living towing electric cars, don't knock them.
 

Functional Artist

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Tow companies around here are making a comfortable living towing electric cars, don't knock them.
I tow over 1,000 car per year
...been doin' it for almost 30 years. now
...& still haven't towed an electric car
...but, I have towed a bunch of them hybrid cars (1/2 gas powered & 1/2 electric drive)
...& I think the ICE system, was the culprit, every time :stir:
 

Denny

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The brush holder looks usable with some polishing, but the rotor (armature) is junk. How are you planning on cooling the motor down there? I imagine there can’t be much air flow down there. Will there be a small fan and ducting?
 

Functional Artist

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The brush holder looks usable with some polishing, but the rotor (armature) is junk. How are you planning on cooling the motor down there? I imagine there can’t be much air flow down there. Will there be a small fan and ducting?
Hey Denny,

When I "ran" this motor, on the Hell-raiser kart, with the 400A controller
...it was only a test 🤓
If you thoroughly analyze the data in the video (& it's a wealth of "real world" data) :cheers2:

When I first took off from a dead stop
...the meter showed that little 1,000W motor, was registering as ~5,000W
...& the corresponding Amperage draw was ~108A (see video @ ~1:40)
& then,
Further along in the video, when accelerating out of a turn
...the motor registered as ~5,800W
...& the corresponding Amp reading was ~122A (@~2:15) :geek:
& later
When I "punched it" @~3:25 is when the flames started shooting out
...& I just happened to get it on camera :sifone:

So, yes, I made a little 1,000W motor with a ~20A rating
...output ~5X it's "factory specified book rating" :2guns:
That my friend, is what racing is all about :bannana:
...doing more with less
...& pushing things to their limits (safely of course)
&
That pertains to the power train
...the chassis
...& the driver too :thumbsup:
 

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For comparison, I have the same (48V 1,000W MY-1020) motor on my Excalibur kart
...but, with the proper YK-31 (20A) speed controller

Now, if you notice, in this video (another wealth of "real world" data) ;)

So, upon first take off/hard acceleration (@2:02)
...the motor registered as 1,644W
...& the corresponding Amperage draw was ~34.45A
Then,
At (2:04) the motor registers as ~1,712W
...& the amp draw was ~37.69A
&
The highest numbers that I saw were ~1,760W (@~2:05)
& ~38.26A
Even,
Upon accelerating out of a "donut" (@~4.:56)
...the motor registered as ~1,701W
...& the Amp draw was ~37.77A

*Also, did you notice the massive Voltage drop 😱

The Voltage is ~51.42V just before the first "take off" (@~2:04)
...then, drops to ~45.43V (which is like a 6V drop from a 48V battery pack)

But, to the packs credit, even after draining ~64Wh out of it, it still showed ~50.69V
...& then, after 190Wh used, it still showed ~48.91V (y)

** Now, in comparison, when I tested this same battery pack on Polaris, a couple of days ago
...it started off at ~51.68V
...& then, after only ~9Wh used it was down to ~51.12V

IMO that kinda Voltage drop is the biggest indicator of "wear" or capacity loss
&
During that "unloaded test", the voltage dropped all the way down to ~44.8V (@~2:21)
...that's like a ~6V-7V drop
...so, imagine what it would do "under a load"? :ack2: (Yup, I'm not gonna bother) :p
 

Denny

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So it appears in essence you have been overworking your batteries with excessive amp draw when compared to the rating of the batteries?
 

Functional Artist

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Um...where was I... :unsure:

Oh...yea...we need an adapter thingie, kinda like this :thumbsup:
SAM_0831.JPG
Actually, we need (2) of them :cheers2:
SAM_0844.JPG
...& they should "go" about like this ;)
SAM_0846 (1).JPG
...& with the wheel
SAM_0847 (1).JPG
Yup, that looks better :wai:
SAM_0850.JPG
Looks like we now have, a bit over 3 1/2" :sifone:
SAM_0851 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Aren’t you worried about all of that cracking from side loading in turns? Might be better off with a chain tensioner?
Hey Denny,
Are you referring to the rear wheel adapters?

Their purpose is to raise the rear of chassis ~2"

Before the GC was only ~1 1/2" :huh:
...& now we have ~3 1/2" :wai:
 
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