Newbie Yerf Dog 30032 Need Advice

BrownStainRacing

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Do I need a special tool to put the new flywheel on? Do I need to pull motor to do it?
No. Jus watch that video. Its ez.

You should have plenty of room, without removing the engine.

You gonna need some jackshaft sprockets and more chain. 11t-14t should get er done, 40-55 mph, jus tell me where you wanna stop, ๐Ÿ˜† ๐Ÿ˜‚ ๐Ÿคฃ ๐Ÿ˜… ๐Ÿ˜œ.

You need links?????
 

BrownStainRacing

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Getting it off is easy, watched a video to get it back on and it talked about using a tool to hold the other end of it still while you tightened.
It's best to lock that crank down so you can torq to spec.

You can make 1 with that back half of the old driver. Jus put it on the crank and mark 2 holes for drilling that line up the the side cover holes. Bolt it to side cover. And torq to spec

Mines borrowed out, or I would get a pic for.

I see if I can find something else.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Getting it off is easy, watched a video to get it back on and it talked about using a tool to hold the other end of it still while you tightened.
Here ya go. Get some 5/16"-24 bolts, 1.25"-2" long will be fine. Bolts dont need tight, they jus gotta keep the plate from moving.

And dont forget to use the key with the biggest cut out (off set) 1st. The key MAY need to be changed to a smaller 1. Won't know til we try.

 

BrownStainRacing

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Let me know the series of mods from this point. Do I wait for the flywheel install for the new carb?
Thing is running great, couldnโ€™t have gotten to this point without your help!
๐Ÿ˜† ๐Ÿ˜„ ๐Ÿคฃ ๐Ÿ˜‚ ๐Ÿ˜… ๐Ÿ˜€ ๐Ÿ˜† ๐Ÿ˜„

I thought you might be saying that soon.

Let's get that flywheel on with the stock key for now. So we know it won't hurt anybody.

Timing will not be close to optimal, but it will be safer. Jus keep your eye on the temp, under 350* will be fine. Not enough advance will cause hotter combustion chamber temps.

Get that flywheel on, set coil air gap .045"-.055". Those magnets are stronger then the stock flywheel magnets, the coil has to be farther away, so it dont burn up. Too close and they will smoke the coil.

Go test er out around the "hood" a few times, an hr or so will be fine. Pull plug out and send me 3 pics, 1 from side so i can see ground strap, 1 deep inside so i can see porcelain, and 1 so i can see both.
This plug reading will tell me how hot the combustion chamber is getting, ignition timing tuning, low, and high speed jet tuning. I jus need a starting spot.

After it sits over night, go around and check/retorque, side cover bolts, head bolts and check, reset valve lash.

Then we can change that carb, do more testing and plug readings.

Then you MIGHT wanna stop, ๐Ÿ˜† ๐Ÿคฃ ๐Ÿ˜‚
We havnt even got into changing big power parts yet. This is jus basic tuning, adjustment stuff here.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Look on old engine. It may have a spout of some sort for easier oil changes.

Get that magnetic drain plug in there.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Did you get that 6" driven and belt back on there???

It will pick up more mph now with that extra 600 rpm you found.

When those other sprockets come in, you will have to start back over, l๐Ÿ˜† ๐Ÿ˜‚ ๐Ÿคฃ ๐Ÿ˜„ but I like testing & tuning.
Sometimes I find improvements that wasn't expected.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Iโ€™ll put the 6โ€ back on and try
Oil change done. Will change drain plug on next change.
When you change the jackshaft sprocket, would be the best time to change both of them.

They don't get metal outta the oil very good, if they are not in the engine, ๐Ÿ˜† ๐Ÿ˜‚ ๐Ÿคฃ ๐Ÿ˜… ๐Ÿ˜œ ๐Ÿ˜„
 
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