Newbie Yerf Dog 30032 Need Advice

goflight2

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First time kart owner here! Picked this up, engine ran rough, pull starter came out, no way to kill engine. Brakes failed.
Trying to build a reliable kart that starts, stops and can go 25-30mph.
Was thinking picking up the Predator 224 for it.
Ordered this for the brakes: Amazon.com: GREHUA Rear 4" Drum Brake Band Pin Brake Cable Kit for Manco Bandit Critter 1492 4316 297 Rotary 484 Azusa 2251-B Yerf-Dog Predator 212cc 420cc 196cc Go Kart Yard Cart Dune Buggies Mini Bike ATV : Automotive

(I bent the brake band trying to remove)

Picked up this for the engine: Amazon.com: BLAST LED - Predator 212cc - 3/4" 30 Series GO Kart Torque Converter Driver Replaces Comet (3/4" 30 Series) : Automotive

Also ordered some new tires, originals were badly cracked.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Again, first timer here!
 

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BrownStainRacing

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First time kart owner here! Picked this up, engine ran rough, pull starter came out, no way to kill engine. Brakes failed.
Trying to build a reliable kart that starts, stops and can go 25-30mph.
Was thinking picking up the Predator 224 for it.
Ordered this for the brakes: Amazon.com: GREHUA Rear 4" Drum Brake Band Pin Brake Cable Kit for Manco Bandit Critter 1492 4316 297 Rotary 484 Azusa 2251-B Yerf-Dog Predator 212cc 420cc 196cc Go Kart Yard Cart Dune Buggies Mini Bike ATV : Automotive

(I bent the brake band trying to remove)

Picked up this for the engine: Amazon.com: BLAST LED - Predator 212cc - 3/4" 30 Series GO Kart Torque Converter Driver Replaces Comet (3/4" 30 Series) : Automotive

Also ordered some new tires, originals were badly cracked.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Again, first timer here!
Very nice project to start with. 👍

Pull the driver pulley off the crank and measure the crankshaft O.D.

You might not need to order that driver. I mean, yes a new 1 wouldnt hurt, Mines over 4yrs old, and I don't even know how many different engines it's been on.

If you gonna pick up a cheap engine, then yes I agree, get the one that makes more torque.

The 224 makes more torque at less rpm then any outta the box 212, including the tilly 212r. This means you can haul big chub-a-licious gals around at the same speed.

I've take 3 of those 224 completely apart right outta the box. There not perfect by any means, but no different then the regular pred 212's.

Get with me, if you get 1, and I will go over a few things to check, inspect, and adjust.
 

BrownStainRacing

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The 224 is more then you will need. It's gonna take less $$$ and time to make 'er go fast, 😆 🤣 😂.

The ducar 212 is a better built, put together engine. It's comes with a much safer flywheel. Right outta the box running at 5300 rpm with the factory governor. It's a gokart race engine, and cost about $50 more. The clearances are alot closer to a honda engine, then any Predator I have ever seen.
But it will never out pull the 224, when it comes to weight.

I wouldn't trade my 224 for a ducar/tilly 212.

Actually, the 224 is a ducar 70mm block with a 58mm stroke.
It jus dont have the clearances set like the ducar race engine. But, those are stupid ez to check and set.

The tilly 212r flywheel is much safer, then the stock cast iron flywheel that comes on the 224. It's only $40, and will make the 224 hit max rpm quicker because of the less weight on the crank. It's 2lbs lighter then stock.

Its not necessary, if running normally governored 3600 rpm engines, but the safe factor is worth every penny to me.

IMHO, you will be perfectly fine and happy with the 224.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Is there another engine you would recommend? Will the 224 reach my speed requirements?
The ducar 212 has a hemi head, so there's more involved when changing cams. Hemi heads allow the exhaust valve to get really close to the piston, so there's not much out there when choosing a cam for hemis.

I'm talking about real cams, cams made for men, not those wanna be camshafts sold all over the you tube. I can literally $hit better camshafts then those.

But heres the ducar 212 and the flywheel I recommend for the 224.

 
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BrownStainRacing

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Dang!!!!
Hold off on ordering stuff for now, 😆 🤣 😂. That flywheel needs a 4* advance key.

Theres other small stuff that you will need, or I would like to recommend for a longer engine life, easier starting, and much better acceleration, that won't break the bank.

I'll get you a list of stuff, it's ez and you can break the engine in good while waiting on the small parts.
 

BrownStainRacing

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I recommend breaking it in with regular 30 weight oil. I have a hard time finding it around here. 2 qts will be plenty for break in. I usally do 3 or 4 changes before putting in 10w30 full synthetic.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Perfect, picking one up on the way home today.
Get it on the work bench and take off:
Air box
blower housing
Valve cover
Spark plug

Rotate flywheel til the intake valve is completely open. This puts pressure on the cam so it don't fall out when you pull the side cover off to check rod bolt torq.

Torq to spec in order:

Flywheel nut
Headbolts
Rod bolts
Side cover bolts
Exhaust bolts

These were all loose on the 3 I tore apart. Get em done now, and not worry about failures later.

Set valve lash....last. Theres plenty of info on here how to do that, if not jus lmk, it's ez pz

Here's bolt torque specs.

 

goflight2

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Great advice! I'll just have to eat the flywheel, but at least I will have it when ready.
Any advice on removing the govenor, I see some people doing that as well.
 

goflight2

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Get it on the work bench and take off:
Air box
blower housing
Valve cover
Spark plug

Rotate flywheel til the intake valve is completely open. This puts pressure on the cam so it don't fall out when you pull the side cover off to check rod bolt torq.

Torq to spec in order:

Flywheel nut
Headbolts
Rod bolts
Side cover bolts
Exhaust bolts

These were all loose on the 3 I tore apart. Get em done now, and not worry about failures later.

Set valve lash....last. Theres plenty of info on here how to do that, if not jus lmk, it's ez pz

Here's bolt torque specs.

Might need info on the valve lash, again, super newbie here.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Great advice! I'll just have to eat the flywheel, but at least I will have it when ready.
Any advice on removing the govenor, I see some people doing that as well.
NO NOT REMOVE THE GOVERNOR!!!!!!!
it is not necessary, I promise you, it will eat 212's and $hit 196's with the governor still working!!!!!

With better internal parts, and clearances in spec, I can show you how to turn it up to 5300 rpm, but I really don't think you gonna need it.
I got the gov outta mine, with billet parts and isky cam, it scares the crap outta me above 5500. The lighter weight guys won't ride it anymore.

My buddy has a better then stock rod, (not billet) flat top piston, stock cam, 1.3:1 stamped steel rockers, 22# valves springs, .640" carb, still with governor, it's alot calmer then mine, but it's no freaking joke.
 

BrownStainRacing

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When you get those bolts torqued to spec, I can help with the valve lash.

Set coil air gap to .035" and sparkplug to .030".

You will notice it comes with extra main jets, the 1 installed should be .028" for lowest altitude. If not, change it.

After a good break in, we can open 1 up to .031" with a 1/32" drill bit.
They come really lean outta the box.
 
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