Engine won’t run after new oil.

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WillMatrix

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Ok so I’ll stay with the TC and put my order in.

---------- Post added at 08:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:19 AM ----------

My sheave is toast? I think it will be ok for a little while, but when I get ready which one should I order?
 

landuse

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Ok so I’ll stay with the TC and put my order in.

---------- Post added at 08:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:19 AM ----------

My sheave is toast? I think it will be ok for a little while, but when I get ready which one should I order?

When I say toast, I just mean that the pitting has reached the stage where you will get excessive belt wear. It will still work, but you will be replacing belts at a fair rate.

When looking to buy a new driven, just search amazon, ebay etc for a 7" driven for a 30 series. Just make sure that you get one with the correct diameter to fit on your jackshaft (5/8" or 3/4"). Like the one below

https://www.amazon.com/30-Torque-Co...verter+driven&qid=1562334170&s=gateway&sr=8-8
 

WillMatrix

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When I say toast, I just mean that the pitting has reached the stage where you will get excessive belt wear. It will still work, but you will be replacing belts at a fair rate.

When looking to buy a new driven, just search amazon, ebay etc for a 7" driven for a 30 series. Just make sure that you get one with the correct diameter to fit on your jackshaft (5/8" or 3/4"). Like the one below

https://www.amazon.com/30-Torque-Co...verter+driven&qid=1562334170&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Thank you for the clarity. I’m going to order more then one belt and the metal bushing.
 

BigWes

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If you decide to replace the torque converter assembly you can buy the one in that link I posted. It comes with everything you need. You may actually save money in the long run just to buy it because it has the belt and bushing you are going to order anyway. And it's the one for your kart. Go back and look at the links I posted. I didn't realize your converter was that rusted out until you cleaned it up. So as others have said it's pretty much too far gone. 99 bucks is a fair price for the kit in the link. It has a 7 inch driven which is ideal for the big Murray.
 

WillMatrix

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Ok guys I need some serious help! I ordered the stage one kit and ordered my belt for my TC, well at least I thought I did. Here are the pictures of the belts.
 

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BigWes

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Why did you buy that belt? I left you links back on page 6 showing you exactly what belt to buy. The link was to belt 203597. But no you didn't buy that belt you bought belt 203589. The belt you bought is for a torque-a-verter tav2 unit. It will not work because your unit is running on a jackshaft plate. Your unit needs a longer belt. Why didn't you use the link I provided you man? Or at least use the belt number? I have tried my best to keep this thread rolling and keep you on the right track I swear. All I want is for you to succeed and get that go-kart halfway right... that's all. That's really all.

This is a picture of my Murray Explorer with the torque converter. I'm not going to even say it's close to being right...but it works really well I promise.

IMG_20190710_193847639.jpg

IMG_20190710_193834139.jpg

That belt looks really tight, but it ain't....
 

BigWes

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I'm just frustrated right now...this frustrates me... I'll be back later...I need a beer...
 

BigWes

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This unit pictured below is a torque-a-verter tav2 unit.

Both units are series 30. The torque-a-verter tav2 unit is self contained unit that bolts onto the engine. Notice the backplate and the sprocket placement. It does not have the big jack plate under the engine. Often these units have a big plastic cover over them. I opted to keep mine off for ease of maintenance.

IMG_20190710_201814450.jpg

Notice also how close the clutches are and how far apart the ones are on the Murray Explorer...this is why we need the different belt...the Murray Explorer takes the longer belt...the 203597
 

WillMatrix

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This unit pictured below is a torque-a-verter tav2 unit.

Both units are series 30. The torque-a-verter tav2 unit is self contained unit that bolts onto the engine. Notice the backplate and the sprocket placement. It does not have the big jack plate under the engine. Often these units have a big plastic cover over them. I opted to keep mine off for ease of maintenance.

View attachment 109790

Notice also how close the clutches are and how far apart the ones are on the Murray Explorer...this is why we need the different belt...the Murray Explorer takes the longer belt...the 203597


Hey bigWes it will never happen again
 

JTSpeedDemon

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Yikes, in less than a month this thread has racked up ~130 posts!:smiley_omg:
Might be a forum record!
Just thought I'd point that out, caught my eye.
 

JTSpeedDemon

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Your flywheel side oil seal is probably bad. Take off the flywheel/other components and replace the seal.
 

BigWes

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Hey bigWes it will never happen again

My apologies sir. I was in a bad way yesterday.

Perhaps I should drop out of this discussion and let someone else pick up in my place.

On a good note, notice how the new belt stays on the outside diameter of the clutch like it belongs and doesn't go down inside the clutch pulley like the old belt did... that's a good sign.
 

WillMatrix

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Your flywheel side oil seal is probably bad. Take off the flywheel/other components and replace the seal.

It always seems to be leaking from the bottom screws.

Edit: it’s coming from the other side and leaking through the bottom
 

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JTSpeedDemon

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Hmm?:huh:
Where are you talking about?
Are you saying it's leaking from the bottom of the block?
Or if it's on the "other side", you may simply have a bad sidecover gasket.
Where EXACTLY are you talking about?
 

JTSpeedDemon

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You know, my engine seemed to leak oil from the sidecover gasket for a while, but that is now not a problem.
I'd run it a bit and see if it stops(keeping track of how much oil is in it!)
 
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