Dingo Manco Fox 2x5 LXT Torque Converter replacement

[madprofessor]

You use the same stuff to pre soak chains in too?

In fact I do use that same synth-moly lube on a new chain before install, because the common motor oil soak that some folks recommend leaves exactly that on the chain, motor oil. I have a bunch of full size foil pans to waste, and just lay the chain flat in one (not crossing over itself) and spray it down like a Devil's Island prisoner getting deloused. Flip it over and repeat, hang it off of my bench vise to evaporate with the pan under it, and it's good to go.
Note that the sprockets don't get lubed in that process, so I do a full traveling of the chain on the sprockets while spraying more on like any everyday relube to finish.

 

[USAMAC]

Note that the sprockets don't get lubed in that process, so I do a full traveling of the chain on the sprockets while spraying more on like any everyday relube to finish.

Any everyday as in an average lube, or did you mean you lube your chains every day they're used/run?

I have 3 lube sprays I've purchased, plus the 1 grease that was recommended for inserting the shaft.

Dry Moly Lube supposed to be good to use in on the belt​

Graphite Dry Film supposed to be good to use inside the motor​

Maxima 74920 Chain Wax I thought would be good for the chain and throttle cable​

​

 

[USAMAC]

There should be a very slight "droop" in the chain. It should make a whirring noise, not a popping noise.

Is there some way to measure even with a caliper, ruler or tape? I can understand the need for specifics, just seems like there would be some specific point on the chain to actually gouge 1/4 slack/droop

 

[Denny]

Do Not Use Those Moly/Graphite Lubes On The Belt Or In The Engine. Bad things WILL happen. The chain is too tight. But being that is a new chain it will quickly stretch within a few minutes of driving. So if I were you I would drive the snot out of it for about a half hour and then check the tension. To check the tension lay a straight edge across the 2 sprockets on top of the chain and in the center pull down on the chain with index finger and thumb. About 1/2” of deflection is good. Any more and snug up chain a little.

 

[madprofessor]

I have to go along with Denny's method for measuring chain slack, since I don't measure it myself. For me it's just experience and how it feels and looks when pulling down on the chain from the center of the gap. I'll attach a couple of pics with chain adjusters that show the great disparity between the possible deflections of a short and a long chain, measurements don't help much there.
Ever heard of "belt dressing" products? Experimented with them over course of my career, and decided they're worthless except for decreasing slip in a worn out belt until you can get a new one, so don't put anything on a rubber belt.
The dry graphite you referred to is for the inside of a TC driver or driven pulley, but definitely not on the pulley sheaves' surfaces that the belt rides on (see previous paragraph). Only motor oil goes inside of engines, just like on your car.
Chain Wax is made for chains, and claims it's good for cables too. Never used it, but the very idea of a paraffin wax coating on and in my chains kind of turns me off, and why experiment when I already love the stuff I use?

 

[USAMAC]

I have to go along with Denny's method for measuring chain slack, since I don't measure it myself. For me it's just experience and how it feels and looks when pulling down on the chain from the center of the gap. I'll attach a couple of pics with chain adjusters that show the great disparity between the possible deflections of a short and a long chain, measurements don't help much there.
Ever heard of "belt dressing" products? Experimented with them over course of my career, and decided they're worthless except for decreasing slip in a worn out belt until you can get a new one, so don't put anything on a rubber belt.
The dry graphite you referred to is for the inside of a TC driver or driven pulley, but definitely not on the pulley sheaves' surfaces that the belt rides on (see previous paragraph). Only motor oil goes inside of engines, just like on your car.
Chain Wax is made for chains, and claims it's good for cables too. Never used it, but the very idea of a paraffin wax coating on and in my chains kind of turns me off, and why experiment when I already love the stuff I use?

You never sent any pics! Funny, after mentioning the dry graphite for the belt I watched a video of someone taking apart the TC to spray it with dry graphite. Yea I guess I was too loose in how I stated that lol

If you were tapping out a whole in the case of a motor, then wanted to spray something to help clean the threads, without complete disassembling the motor just to be sure you're getting it all out.. how/what would any of you do? I've considered when I do that, I'll probably place a cup or something on the other side of the whole to catch as much of the shavings as possible.. but I see people spraying into motors alot on how-to videos, so there must be something safe enough. @Denny I know that only motor oil goes inside but what about during services/repairs/modifications?

 

[Denny]

I use only GM E.O.S. for reassembly of engines or lubriplate 105. You use tapping fluid for cutting threads. I use Tap Magic. For clean out of the new threads I use brake clean and compressed air.

 

[madprofessor]

clean the threads, without complete disassembling the motor

Only works when the motor is out of the vehicle, but gravity can do most of the work. You drain all the oil, and turn the motor whatever way puts the object area at the bottom, even if that's upside-down.

tapping out a hole in the case

Tapping is by hand, back and forth, and only as fast as you twist the tap by hand. Won't sling shavings into the case like a drill bit making a new hole would. Keep backing the well-oiled tap out all the way, using oily Q-tips twisting lefthand inside the threads each time before tap goes back in until finished.
Haven't tried it on a tap yet, but a magnetizer/demagnetizer cube is quite cheap in the tools department, and you could magnetize your tap with a few strokes against the cube. Very well might hold all the shavings.

 

[madprofessor]

Here's those pics I forgot, a long chain gap with an idler wheel (EDIT: It's an idler SPROCKET, not an idler WHEEL: HEAVY DUTY ROLLER CHAIN SPROCKET IDLER 22 TOOTH #35 CHAIN 1/2" BORE. | eBay ) pulling upward for the adjustment, and a short gap with a plastic roller being pushed against it with a bolt.

 

[USAMAC]

I use only GM E.O.S. for reassembly of engines or lubriplate 105. You use tapping fluid for cutting threads. I use Tap Magic. For clean out of the new threads I use brake clean and compressed air.

I did pickup some Tap Magic for that reason, I've heard it's really great stuff so when I do remove my governor I'll be sure to use it tapping those threads.

Tapping is by hand, back and forth, and only as fast as you twist the tap by hand. Won't sling shavings into the case like a drill bit making a new hole would. Keep backing the well-oiled tap out all the way, using oily Q-tips twisting left hand inside the threads each time before tap goes back in until finished.
Haven't tried it on a tap yet, but a magnetizer/demagnetizer cube is quite cheap in the tools department, and you could magnetize your tap with a few strokes against the cube. Very well might hold all the shavings.

I guess the youtubers just make far too much unnecessary mess trying to display the work instead of careful to control the mess. I have 2 of those cubes, that's a brilliant idea man!

 

[Denny]

Magnets don’t work that good on aluminum in my experience. I use Tap Magic with my taps after I pack the flutes of the tap with heavy wheel bearing grease. The grease traps the chips that I don’t want to fall in stuff.

 

[madprofessor]

pack the flutes of the tap with heavy wheel bearing grease.

That's the way my Daddy did it. He also torch-brazed with a coathanger and Borax. The old-school lives forever.

 

[USAMAC]

Big update:

So I set everything up after getting home and took her out for some joy ridding before the kids got home. I had Denny's words in my head the whole time drive the snot out of it for about a half hour. A goal I was determined to meet! Man did it ride good for about 25minutes. Then, the bracket for the throttle cable on the motor came loose (most certainly from me not tightening it down enough and all the jarring I was doing!) I got off to check it and at that time noticed my belt was fraying! I looked at the numbers and immediately realized I had put the first belt I randomly ordered off Amazon back before ever seeking counsel here

Anyhow, took it back to the shop after fixing the throttle cable and swapped it out. Ran great without problems after that, but I noticed it just does not seem to have as much power as it did with the wrong belt. The right belt is not too loose, it went on just fine and the wrong one went on with some challenge.

I know there is no fix for this immediately, but it gave me a taste of what to look for when I pull the gov and put a stage 1 kit on it sometime this winter.

Thank you to everyone for all of their help in getting this kart up and going again! I am looking forward to starting another post when I begin down the track of modifying the motor incrementally.

 

[Karttekk]

Big update:

So I set everything up after getting home and took her out for some joy ridding before the kids got home. I had Denny's words in my head the whole time drive the snot out of it for about a half hour. A goal I was determined to meet! Man did it ride good for about 25minutes. Then, the bracket for the throttle cable on the motor came loose (most certainly from me not tightening it down enough and all the jarring I was doing!) I got off to check it and at that time noticed my belt was fraying! I looked at the numbers and immediately realized I had put the first belt I randomly ordered off Amazon back before ever seeking counsel here

Anyhow, took it back to the shop after fixing the throttle cable and swapped it out. Ran great without problems after that, but I noticed it just does not seem to have as much power as it did with the wrong belt. The right belt is not too loose, it went on just fine and the wrong one went on with some challenge.

I know there is no fix for this immediately, but it gave me a taste of what to look for when I pull the gov and put a stage 1 kit on it sometime this winter.

Thank you to everyone for all of their help in getting this kart up and going again! I am looking forward to starting another post when I begin down the track of modifying the motor incrementally.

Glad to hear the kart at least runs and is "sort of" working right. Now that you're familiar with karts there's no limit on what you can from here on out. Thanks for the update, we'll see you at the next kart rally, wherever that is!

 

[madprofessor]

I must have missed it earlier in the thread, but what belt is on it now? A random Amazon belt, or a genuine Comet belt measured correctly for?

 

[Denny]

So glad to hear about it working out for you! Isn’t that a great feeling? From here on out it’s all small stuff that will go wrong or need maintenance unless you wreck it. How did the kids like it? Don’t you feel proud of yourself now? Was it a family project with the kids involved? Now we need good pictures of the kart and the smiles and fun!

 

[USAMAC]

I must have missed it earlier in the thread, but what belt is on it now? A random Amazon belt, or a genuine Comet belt measured correctly for?

The 1st and wrong was from Amazon but I did measure for it lol. The recently ordered and correct belt, was the comet belt and it does not shred any, yet anyhow lol.

So glad to hear about it working out for you! Isn’t that a great feeling? From here on out it’s all small stuff that will go wrong or need maintenance unless you wreck it. How did the kids like it? Don’t you feel proud of yourself now? Was it a family project with the kids involved? Now we need good pictures of the kart and the smiles and fun!

It was a fantastic feeling especially when I got to tear out! Yes my 8yr old son has been a big part of working on it with me. He was not there for the final assembly and first test drive, but tomorrow he will get some good time on it. I'll be sure to take pics and videos of them on it Thanks for the update, we'll see you at the next kart rally, wherever that is!

Thanks for the update, we'll see you at the next kart rally, wherever that is!

I'd be really interested to know about this! I've been trying to source others in the area for any kind community ridings/gatherings.

I have ambitions to build my own soon, but if there is going to be an off road or smooth road/track type coarse to use, I'd love to know in advance to prepare better.

 

[Denny]

I get a real kick out of others getting to drive their junk the first time. It makes me feel as proud as if I built it myself.

 

[Karttekk]

I hope to take mine out today for its first run. I put the jackshaft up on 1" spacers to emulate how the factory had it to allow room for the driven pulley. Had to fabricate a chain too. I got a free 420 chain with a kart I picked up a few months ago then sold. It was a project kart he never finished plus he ordered the 420 chain but it had a 35 sprocket. I had to add about 6" to it in order for it to fit. Free is always good.

 

[USAMAC]

I hope to take mine out today for its first run.

Did you end up taking it out?

Had a bit of fun with the kart today. My kids got a taste and couldn't get enough, I think they finally understand why I was so determined. They insisted on ridding again when we got home, so I finally thought about pulling out the camera. Here she is finally running good. Can't wait for phase 2!