Diamonite Electrathon America Racer

[Functional Artist]

I added a connector to the Brake Lever/Brake light switch connection
...will be hidden behind the dash

This is so, the Lever is removable from the wiring harness
...& NOT permanently "hard wired" to it

Again, just Plug-n-Play
* Notice, the wire colors are connected (same/same)

 

[Functional Artist]

Power wires (AKA Battery Cables)
The Positive (+) & Negative (-) power wire connector, at the Speed Controller

I used some Orange Vinyl tape to "bundle" the power wires together

* Taping tip: try-n-not touch the end of the tape when installing
...as to NOT contaminate or reduce the "stickability" of the "end" of the tape

On most EV's Orange "wrapping" indicates that they are the "High(er) Voltage" power wires

The Positive "battery cable" goes from the SC to the Circuit Breaker, first (Load)
...then, goes to the Battery pack (Batt)

* I labeled 'em for future reference

 

[Functional Artist]

Let's discuss Speed Controllers

For this racer, we need a speed controller for a 48V system
...& 1,000W brushed motor

Here is the Yalu Model YL-03 48V 1,000W speed controller
...that came with the motor kit
...but, the label (on it) doesn't have much info

To help explain further
...this WYYS48 is a 48V 1,000W SC (speed controller)
...that I "fried" a whilst back
...but, the label, on this one, has more info

Model #: WYYS48
Power: 1,000W (for up to 1,000W motor)
Voltage: 48VDC (for use with 48V systems/battery packs)
Current: 32A (nominal current capacity 32 Amps)
Short Voltage: 42V (controller will "shut off" when the 48V battery pack, gets below ~42V)
Throttle Voltage: 1-4V (controller accepts throttles with a 1V-4V range)
Function: Reverse: (controller has additional Reverse feature)
Production Date: 20220910 (Made on Sept. 10, 2022)

Here is the wiring diagram that came with the kit

These are the big Power Wires
...Red (+) Black (-) are the Battery cables
...& Yellow & Blue are the Motors Power cables

These are the smaller Signal wires
...like Power Lock (On/Off), Throttle, Charger (Battery Charger connection), Brake (switch), Voltage Meter & Brake light(s)

Also/supplemental, Warning & Instructions

 

[Functional Artist]

Now, let's discuss the Power Meter (required in the EA handbook)

INSTRUMENTS
The goal of Electrathon is to see how far you can go in an hour. To do that effectively, you will need to know what you vehicle is doing, so instrumentation is essential. Amperage and voltage are the most important things to know. Simple analog gauges will work, but it's hard to see the needle and small numbers when you and they are bouncing around in a race. Digital units (E-Meters) are more expensive, but they are much more precise, easier to read, and will record the data over time, so at the end of a race you can tell the total number of amp or watt hours you've used. Either way, your meter needs to be connected to a shunt, which is a chunk of metal of known resistance that current flows thru. (page 24.)

I'm using a PZEM-051 power meter

These are the specs on the box

Type: for DC systems (check)
Model: 051 (check)
Parts: Includes a 100A Shunt (check)

Made in China: ya...ya...whatever ...for now

In the manual there are:

Specification parameters:
1. Working Voltage: 6.5VDC - 100VDC
2. Test voltage: 6.5VDC - 100VDC
3. Rated Power: 100A/1,000W
4. Measurement accuracy: 1.0 grade

Has a wiring diagram printed in the manual
...&/also, right on the back of the meter too

I'ma thinkin' ta probably mount the Shunt
...up/under here
...right next to the battery

 

[Functional Artist]

Ju-alla says "Hey that doesn't look like a 100A Shunt"

I'ma says "good eye"

On top is a PZEM-051 power meter
#2: is a 50A Shunt
#3 is a 100A Shunt
#4 is a 500A Shunt

Well, it seems that Shunts are calibrated by size

The 50A unit is for systems up to ~50A
The 100A unit is for systems up to ~100A
The 500A unit is for systems up to ~500A

* Hence the difference in sizes
...& the difference in the battery cable connection (bolt) sizes too

They are basically interchangeable (as long as the measurement specs are the same)

Yup, all (3) versions are labeled (75mV)

All (3) versions are also labeled (FL-2 0.5)

Since the system, in this racer is under 50A, I figured a 50A Shunt wasa the "better choice"

* Also, from past experience(s), using a Shunt with closely matching specs, seems to produce a bit more accurate info/data

So, Ju-alla, that'sa why we B usin' a 50A Shunt

 

[Functional Artist]

What is a Shunt?

Technically:
A shunt is a device designed to provide a low-impedance path for an electrical current in a circuit. Electrical shunts are used in a wide variety of applications including power distribution systems, electrical measurement systems, automotive and marine applications. In current measurement, a shunt is a resistor of very low but precisely known resistance placed in parallel with a meter, allowing large currents to be measured indirectly via the voltage drop across it.

Basically:
A simple metal component
...wired "in line" with the Negative (-) Battery cable
...with "sense wires" on each side
...that sends info/data to a meter
...which then, displays the info "in real time" on its screen

Again, here is the wiring diagram (in the manual & on the meter)
...that I went off of

I did a drawin' of my own
...on how ta connect 'er

Also, I want to try-n-keep the wiring of these power meters
...on ALL of my racers consistent

* For easy inter-changeability of parts amoungst different racers
&
Ta help keep 'em "idiot proof"
...by ALWAYS having them wired "basically" the same

So, ta "double check" on the wire colors
...that I used on previously ta wire up my PZEM-051 power meters
...I went back to the build thread for my Sequoia EA racer (~post #430)
https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/sequoia-electrathon-racer.48137/
...& found these pics

Backside of the meter
...& Shunt

Upper closer view of the Shunt wireing

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Also, I want to try-n-keep the wiring of these power meters
...on ALL of my racers consistent

* For easy inter-changeability of parts amoungst different racers
&
Ta help keep 'em "idiot proof"
...by ALWAYS having them wired "basically" the same

Bingo!