Diamonite Electrathon America Racer

[Functional Artist]

These things happen

Actually, I had a feelin' as I wasa buildin' the swing arm (man this thing is turning out a bit longer than I thought)
...& so, wasa kinda expectin it

Don't worry...my friend, I got weapons of mass destruction

So, I did some measurin' & markin'

Got out some tools & PPG

Drilled some holes to establish nice-n-rounded inner corners
...& used the vacuum ta "suck up" the debris

Post-surgery

Um...kinda tight??

I must say...we gettin' closer

 

[Functional Artist]

I Installed the spindles & front wheels

So, I could do a front wheel clearance test

A little "tight"
...but, not too bad

Looks like it'sa gonna need just a little (dinky) bit of trimmin'

 

[Functional Artist]

Now, let's get T's hubs mounted
...with the rotors
...& Caliper mountin' bracket

Another view

The Caliper should "go" about here

Ta make some Caliper brackets I got out some 11g. steel & an old Aluminum sign (~1/8" too)

First thought (attempt) was to make the Caliper bracket outta the Aluminum...ta help maintain "lightness"
...so, I used my plastic template ta mark the Aluminum

Close up "side view" of materials

But, after cuttin' 'er out
...I noticed some warpage

Should look like this

That's NOT good if it's already warping

Back ta the material "pile"

 

[Functional Artist]

Whilst lookin' for more materials ta work with
...I noticed:

K - Read
...on the side of a little box??

Hey it's a note from my buddy T
...from (way back) when he sent the hubs, to me

He's sooooo Kool!

Thanks, T
...your the best!

Whilst I wasa lookin' it started raining
...so, I had ta "weatherize" the monocoque

But, inside my new & improved work area
...wasa still nice-n-dry

The 11g. steel just seemed too "beefy" & heavy for this situation

So, whilst a lookin' I found a piece of 16g. steel (bent into a channel) as seen on the work bench in the above pic

IDK that just seemed a bit too thin
...but, this piece of ~14g. seems ta "fit the bill" much better

* It's NOT a pristine piece
...but, I think I can "work with it"
...& try it as a prototype
&
If it works out well, I'll get some nicer 14G. steel

First drilled out the inner curve (gook 'ol Step drill bits...again)

Then, went ta cuttin'

 

[Functional Artist]

A little while later, it started raining harder
...shortly after I removed the "winterization"...of course

Then, it started a stormin'

So, whilst I wasa "forced" ta take a break
...I did some doodlin'
...& drew up some Patriotic flames...I guess you'd call 'em

I'ma thinkin' that something like this would/maybe look kinda kool, on the racer

* Maybe just tattered ends (instead of flame flickers)
...or maybe even separated stripes "freely" flowing in the breeze

** Folks feel free to "play with"
...& expand on this concept...if ya want
&
*** If it looks kool
...maybe I'll put 'er on the racer

 

[Functional Artist]

I did a bit more work on the Caliper bracket (prep work before bendin')

Put 'er in the Vise (aligned with the bend line)

The Impact Persuader (hammer) did the rest

Looks like this

Should "go" about like this, on the Spindle

Top view

Should intersection with
...& bolt to
...the Spindle's Steering Arm
...like this

 

[Functional Artist]

Test fit of Caliper, on the Bracket
...Caliper & Bracket on the Spindle
...& of Caliper & Bracket, on the Spindle, with the wheel mounted

Another view

Test fit of Caliper, on the Bracket
...Caliper & Bracket on the Spindle
...& of Caliper & Bracket, on the Spindle, with the wheel mounted
...mounted on the racer

Another view

 

[Functional Artist]

IDK after workin' with & assembling everything
...this 14g. steel now doesn't seem "beefy" enough

So, I looked & found some 12g. steel
...& went ta cuttin' a (2") strip off of the end

12g. piece, marked for trimmin'

* A "trick" to make makin' these a bit easier, is to drill the Spindle hole first
...then, align, the template for markin'

** Because "if" this hole doesn't get drilled exactly in the center
...everything WILL be "off"

After trimmin'
...we go, back ta the Vise
...for bendin'

After test fit & alignment check, I went ahead
...& bolted the Caliper Bracket, to the Steering Arm of the Spindle

Another view

* Why does the Caliper Bracker need ta be bolted to the Spindle?

This is so, when the Brakes are applied (Caliper clamping down on the Rotor)
...the Caliper & Bracket don't "spin" with the wheel

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

A brilliantly simple solution. Carry on.

 

[Functional Artist]

Havin' some issues with these plastic/nylon rims

Four hours later
...& still havin' issues with these stupid plastic/nylon rims

IIRC T warned me about this...a whilst back

Another silent movie
...but, I don't think ya need me ta verbally explain it to ya

 

[Functional Artist]

Well...me & Ducky wasa thinkin'

After makin' several Caliper brackets
...tryin' ta overcompensate (in different ways) to make these wheels work

Ima "kickin' dirt" & mumblin'
&
Ducky says:
Time ta "take a brake" & think about it

 

[Denny]

She always wants to take a break. Adapt and overcome! Switch to steel wheels and consider the plastic ones a failed experiment!

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Havin' some issues with these plastic/nylon rims

Four hours later
...& still havin' issues with these stupid plastic/nylon rims

IIRC T warned me about this...a whilst back

Another silent movie
...but, I don't think ya need me ta verbally explain it to ya

That looks like the same issue i had with WTC. The minibike wheel I got was manufactured crooked. I had to take it to the lathe and make it straight.

 

[Functional Artist]

She always wants to take a break. Adapt and overcome! Switch to steel wheels and consider the plastic ones a failed experiment!

Hey Denny,

Yup, that's what I'ma thinkin' too

Dis-mountin' the hub(s) & tire(s) & tube(s) off of these stupid Plastic/nylon rim(s)

On these white rims the first thing ya gotts ta find is
...the rim 1/2 that has the hole, for the valve stem

Once the valve stem is inserted thru the hole
...I always screw the cap on

So, the valve stem can't pull out or fall back, thru the hole
...whilst your "fiddlin' around" with mounting the other rim 1/2

Once assembled, I aired 'er up ~30 PSI

Tire says (up to) "40 PSI cold"

 

[Functional Artist]

That looks like the same issue i had with WTC. The minibike wheel I got was manufactured crooked. I had to take it to the lathe and make it straight.

Hey WTR,

I have one of those rims too
...hope it doesn't have issues...too

My buddy T (Master Hack) did some (lathe) work
...where the hubs mount
...trying to "true" these rims up

BUT, IIRC he said that he had trouble with the material (plastic/nylon) flexing

This is how they normally look (stock)

 

[Functional Artist]

Now that we are working with these white rims
...I gotta get out the custom hubs, T made to work with these rims

These hubs "ride" on a 5/8" spindle (just like the black plastic/nylon rims)
...& are designed to use the same rotors

So, this should be a pretty easy transition

 

[Functional Artist]

Wheel spacers

We need "spacers" between the hub (bearing)
...& the Caliper mounting bracket/spindle

To maintain the proper distance between the hub & Caliper bracket
...& ta keep the hub from rubbin' against & (potentially) damaging the Caliper bracket

These are standard hardware store washers for a 5/8" bolt (flat & lock)

But, we gotta keep in mind that the bearing has (2) 1/2's

The outer section, that the wheel "rides on"
...& the inner section, that the spindle "rides on"

We can't have a "spacer" that "bridges" (& basically connects) the (2) sections
...like the big/flat washer would do
...'cause then, the inner section, couldn't spin independently, from the outer section

So, the Lock washer would be the better choice

But, a Lock washer has a "locking" feature
...& we don't want that feature, in this situation

So, let's do a bit of modification

Inserted it in the vise

Used the adjustable, manual, hand bender
...ta do some adjustin'

Yup, like that

 

[Functional Artist]

Lookie what I found on the side of the road (stainless steel refrigerator door)
...musta fell out of the back of a scrapers truck
...free materials

Figured this may be a good choice of material ta make the front, inner "saddle" out of
...as it wont need paintin'
&
As/such there is no paint ta "wear off" durin' use
...& should look pretty kool...too

So, I measured & marked, a piece ta use for the inner "saddle"

Cut 'er out (cut off wheel)

Gently pried 'er off

Jualla!

Here is the backside, after scrapin' any foam residue...off

 

[Functional Artist]

Gonna use some of the 18g. steel ta make the rear inner "saddle"
...as it doesn't need ta be cosmetic (will be hidden by the seat)
...but/also, needs ta be pretty strong

As the propulsion will be "pushin' against it"
...the suspension "pad" will be "pushin' against it"
...the roll bar will mount to it
...& the shoulder straps, for the seatbelts, will mount to it too

The plan
...drawin' with measurements

After cuttin' out the piece for the rear inner "saddle"
...I noticed how much "flimsy" (technical term) the SS piece was compared to the 18g. piece

So, on second thought
...it just doesn't seem to be "up to the task"

So, I went ahead & made an 18g. inner "saddle" for the front

 

[Functional Artist]

Let's start off with the front inner "saddle"

I did a (3) part bend
...each bend ~1/8" apart
...ta try-n-make a curved bend
...rather than a corner bend

Test fit looked pretty good

So, I drilled some holes
...& bolted 'er in

Another view

A view from up underneath

* Notice the "shadow" of the inner "saddle" is a bit bigger?
** Looks pretty solid/secure...ta me

Here is a view under the floorboard

*** Also, notice the "shadow" of the inner "saddle" here?
...& how most everything "bolts" thru it (even the axle's outer "wrap around" mounts?