Master Hack
Well-known member
This gonna be fun to watch! The fumes are gonna be intense!
Diamonite Electrathon America Racer
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
Denny
Canned Monster
Who is this Julia you keep referencing? I didn’t look by the way. But I did guess 25lbs. It is glass after all.
Master Hack
Well-known member
With the deadline approaching, mo progress!
This correct? I doubt myself almost daily...
Might be in your best interest to look for someone who knows WTF dey be doin
This correct? I doubt myself almost daily...
Might be in your best interest to look for someone who knows WTF dey be doin
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Yup, looks good from here
Denny
Canned Monster
Don’t worry we doubt you daily too!
Master Hack
Well-known member
Oh! Good! It's not just me....
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
Don't doubt yourself...my friend
...& don't listen to Denny
...you are quite talented
Well, it's still too cold around here ta do any fiber glassing
Most recommendations say...between ~60* & ~90* is usually best
...they say...if it's under ~60* the resin won't/can't "cure" properly
...& if it's over ~90* the resin won't have much "pot life" (length of time that the catalyzed resin is usable)
* Which means the resin will start to "cure" very/too quickly
...& the user won't have much time, to get much of anything done
So, I got's lots of time ta "jabber" about stuff
Like, the "chosen shape" for this monocoque
1. Symmetry: this shape was easy to make/keep symmetrical
2. Strength: the side body line or "ridge" provides extra strength thru design (as opposed to adding/using extra material)
3. Construction: this shape made it easier to construct the mold
...& this shape would also make it easier to de-mold, the piece, when after it's "cured" (hardened up)
Which brings us to "rounding" the inner "corners" of the mold
...or filleting (term used in airplane construction)
...or fearing (term used in boat construction)
Some folks would recommend using a kinda large radius (like drinking glass size)
...& some just recommend to "round" the inner-corners
Radi-using the inner-corners helps the structure to "spread" any load around the bend
...& NOT directing or concentrate any loads into "a corner"
&/also,
Helps the "created piece" from "mechanically locking" (industry term) in the mold
I figured the ~60* angled sides & rear panel, would help "spread the load" enough
...& with de-molding too
...that just a "finger" size (or width) of a radius should suffice
Also, the mold is already "lined" with (Formica countertop material) a "hard" non-pourus surface
...&/so, I just want to "fill the gap"
...but, really don't want to create a huge mess tryin' ta do it
So, I'ma gonna try-n-caulk 'em
...with some Kitchen & Bath Adhesive Caulk
* Bonds like a glue
...applies like a caulk
...& seals like a caulk
Before
*Notice there isn't hardly any "gap" in the "seams" where the front panel intersects with the floorboard & sides
...but, there is ~1/4" "gap" in the "seams" where the sides intersect with the floorboard
After
* More messy(er) than I had "hoped for"
...so, a bit of clean up will be required
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Well it's "America's #1 seller" so you can't go wrong. Ever.
Master Hack
Well-known member
Bansil
Painter of gnomes....
Why silicone and not clay type putty?
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Kool-aid? Mine tasted like straight up moon shine.You didn't have any of Denny's Kool aid did ya?
Master Hack
Well-known member
I'm sure your research has turned up how to adjust catalyst for temp/cure time etc.
just in case and for both of ya others that maybe interested.
just in case and for both of ya others that maybe interested.
Yeah l know, he calls it Kool Aid. I think its everclear and food coloring.
Master Hack
Well-known member
Hey K!
l'm getting ready to have the slaves cut out a "wheel flange" for the other half of the one way spinny thing. Two things:
1: Are we thinkin about turning a flat on the wheel? By my calculations, if dat be the case l need a 3rd wheel half. If ya got sumpthin else planned
2: thinkin 3/16 for the flange. The threaded hub from the one way spinny thing, welded.
you thinkin the same?
l'm getting ready to have the slaves cut out a "wheel flange" for the other half of the one way spinny thing. Two things:
1: Are we thinkin about turning a flat on the wheel? By my calculations, if dat be the case l need a 3rd wheel half. If ya got sumpthin else planned
2: thinkin 3/16 for the flange. The threaded hub from the one way spinny thing, welded.
you thinkin the same?
Denny
Canned Monster
No, it’s Tennessee’s finest sipping shine and food coloring. Crap, I just gave away my secret recipe.
Kevin, Bansil is right modeling clay would have been better and is what’s usually used. I hope that caulk does not have any silicone in it. Or you will never get paint to stick where you put it.
Bansil
Painter of gnomes....
Denny that was my concern also
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
It's a latex caulk, shouldn't be a problem.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey Bansil,
While doin' research (reading books & watchin' videos) they mention
...& show using stuff like wax, clay & even automotive Bondo (body filler) for filleting (airplane const. term)
...& fearing (boat const. term)
...& radiusing "corners" (in general)
Also, since made out of wood products (MDF & Formica)
...& the "seams" that this mold has are mostly long & straight, I figured some kind of "caulk" would work...well
Another thought was that a "caulk" type material would be easier to apply (using a caulking "gun")
...than, trying to trowel some "goopy" fillers (out of a can) into them long/straight "seams"
...then, try rounding & cleaning up ALL of them long/straight "seams"
A third concern was that we needed something that would "stick" to the wood (products) "Bonds like a glue"
...but, would also, harden up
...or NOT stay soft, like a pure latex caulk
* Yup, I agree guys...Silicone would not have been a "good choice" for this project
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
Yup, I'd have ta say that a 3/16" flange should work fine
...IDK maybe even 1/8" thick (wadda you think)
I'll probably have ta send another wheel to you
...unless it's somethin' ya think I could do myself (successfully)
Master Hack
Well-known member
I've seen ya pull off some amazing shyt, with imagination and a few basic tools, so l would say you probably could. Think, wood lathe. Plastic is soft. If you can come up with something like a spinna and a steady rest for your cutter. If ya have a steady hand... I can send ya a carbide cutter.
your call.
Only 3 attachment points at the wheel/flange interface, and that famous electric tork, l would be concerned with flex.
your call.
Master Hack
Well-known member
I found the slaves working on yer hubs 2day so I took a few pics.
The pics should be self explanitory but, if ya need an explanation they are available for $.025 each.
Send a SASE with $.025 to MTL Oregon. Your explanation will be sent back within 4 weeks.
The pics should be self explanitory but, if ya need an explanation they are available for $.025 each.
Send a SASE with $.025 to MTL Oregon. Your explanation will be sent back within 4 weeks.