ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
You've earned a Doctorate in Overthinking It. PHDOTI
Diamonite Electrathon America Racer
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
Denny
Canned Monster
He’s just GAB (Going All Bob) on it. Kevin is ok.
Master Hack
Well-known member
Got off my Azz today. B4 l drill out the drive thingy, this watcha have in mind?
Looks kinda like the sketch!
Looks kinda like the sketch!
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Um...well...it kinda looks...backwards
Which sketch are ya lookin' at?
There needs to be a steel flange (to bolt the whole unit onto the wheel/rim)
...welded to the "mount" that the sprag/freewheel "threads" onto
...& then, the blue IIRC 48T sprocket bolts to them (4) bolt holes on the sprag/freewheel unit
*See drawin'
...assembly order (left to right)
1.) flange (steel disc w/3 holes for bolting to the wheel)
2.) sprag/freewheel mount (welded to the flange)
3.) sprag/freewheel (threaded onto mount)
4.) sprocket (bolted to sprag/freewheel)
Which sketch are ya lookin' at?
There needs to be a steel flange (to bolt the whole unit onto the wheel/rim)
...welded to the "mount" that the sprag/freewheel "threads" onto
...& then, the blue IIRC 48T sprocket bolts to them (4) bolt holes on the sprag/freewheel unit
*See drawin'
...assembly order (left to right)
1.) flange (steel disc w/3 holes for bolting to the wheel)
2.) sprag/freewheel mount (welded to the flange)
3.) sprag/freewheel (threaded onto mount)
4.) sprocket (bolted to sprag/freewheel)
Master Hack
Well-known member
There are a coupla minor considerations.
A. The sprag thingy is thicker than the aluminum disc. No biggie, there just needs to be a counter bore in the wheel to accomodate the standout of the thingy.
So one wheel half will be different than the other 5.
B. The outer edge of the sprag thingy falls excatly on the centerline of the bolt pattern of the wheel. The best way to deal with that is to make a relief in the sprag to accomodate the wheel bolts. Then the sprag thingy will get bolted to the aluminum disc. The assembly then would be bolted to the wheel by the 3 through bolts.
those changes would constitute revision 7-8 respectivley.
sign below if approved.
approved by_________________________
Date_________________
A. The sprag thingy is thicker than the aluminum disc. No biggie, there just needs to be a counter bore in the wheel to accomodate the standout of the thingy.
So one wheel half will be different than the other 5.
B. The outer edge of the sprag thingy falls excatly on the centerline of the bolt pattern of the wheel. The best way to deal with that is to make a relief in the sprag to accomodate the wheel bolts. Then the sprag thingy will get bolted to the aluminum disc. The assembly then would be bolted to the wheel by the 3 through bolts.
those changes would constitute revision 7-8 respectivley.
sign below if approved.
approved by_________________________
Date_________________
Master Hack
Well-known member
Yeah just like this?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
It's been a long day at work
...so, just wanna be sure we are "on the same page"
First, I don't understand (A)
Second, as for (B) if I'm understanding correctly, couldn't the bolts be "run thru" from the other side?
Third, it seems like the flange, for mounting the unit to the wheel, should be steel (not aluminum)
...so, that the flange can be welded to the steel sprag/freewheel mount
More pics for clarity
The wheel flange needs to be welded to the top of the mount (in this pic) here (see below)
The sprocket needs to be mounted to the sprag...here (see below)
It's been a long day at work
...so, just wanna be sure we are "on the same page"
First, I don't understand (A)
Second, as for (B) if I'm understanding correctly, couldn't the bolts be "run thru" from the other side?
Third, it seems like the flange, for mounting the unit to the wheel, should be steel (not aluminum)
...so, that the flange can be welded to the steel sprag/freewheel mount
More pics for clarity
The wheel flange needs to be welded to the top of the mount (in this pic) here (see below)
The sprocket needs to be mounted to the sprag...here (see below)
Master Hack
Well-known member
Yeah, thats how it is in my pic.
A. Doesn't matter now that i have the plan correct.
B. Doesn't matter either.
This is just in the planning stage at this point. No metal was harmed in this study.
Any metal in this picture was used for mock up purposes only.
the sproket has to be bored to fit the hub on the sprag, yet.
welding the threaded hub thingy to a disc for the wheel might be challenging to get concentric, flat and true. But no worries, ya came to da wrong place.
A. Doesn't matter now that i have the plan correct.
B. Doesn't matter either.
This is just in the planning stage at this point. No metal was harmed in this study.
Any metal in this picture was used for mock up purposes only.
the sproket has to be bored to fit the hub on the sprag, yet.
welding the threaded hub thingy to a disc for the wheel might be challenging to get concentric, flat and true. But no worries, ya came to da wrong place.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
Yup, just need a flange welded to the (flat side of the) threaded mounty piece
...& then, the sprocket mounted/bolted onto the sprag
I figured ya would just machine a bit off (probably the thickness of the flange) of the (to be welded to) end of the sprag mount
...to create a ridge, for the flange to sit on
Like ya did on some of them other "bad azz" hubs that ya made up
* Also, keep in mind, that on this rear hub/mount we only need enough clearance for the chain to "run"
...not enough for a brake Caliper
...so, you have more room (or can remove more "space") to work with
Master Hack
Well-known member
Thats the plan.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
But wait...there's more
I've been thinkin' about some other (kinda related) stuff too
Kinda like (Imagination exercise)
I compare things (in my head) to other things
...to help understand them
...or to help apply some "like" characteristic, to a situation
"Stick with me"...for a minute
Here is an example:
They say...fiberglass is a sheet of glass fibers
OK...now try-n-imagine that...
...got nuthin'?...me too
OK let's "break it down" a bit,...what is a glass fiber?
They say...a glass fiber...is a strand of glass
OK...now try-n-imagine that...
...got nuthin'?...me too
Now, lets try kinda like
Think about a hot-n-steamy cheesy pizza
...&/then, think about (imagine) what happens when ya pull a slice away from the pie?
Yup, some of the melty cheese, stretches out into long skinny "strands"
Well, FWIU that's "kinda like" how glass fibers are made
...melt some glass
...& pull it apart
...which creates long skinny "strands" of glass
Take a bunch of them "strands" or fibers
...& lightly glue them together
...ya got a sheet of fiberglass
Hopefully "that" concept helps folks understand/picture/imagine, what a glass fiber "is"
...&/or even, a whole sheet of fiberglass is, in your head?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Should have said...a "sheet" of fiberglass cloth 
Moving on...
Why is fiberglass strong?
Well...FWIU...glass fibers are really strong, when loaded "in tension" (when the ends of a strand are pulled upon)
...but, they flex & bend quite easily
...&/so, they don't provide much strength when "in compression" (when the ends of a strand are being pushed together)
But
When glass fibers are saturated with "glue"
...& then, "glued" together
...those individual fibers "act as a whole"
...creating a really stiff & strong material
Got ALL of that
...glass fibers...strong (but, only in 1 direction)
...glued together=really strong (in many directions)
OK...now try-n-imagine that...
...got nuthin'?...me too
Now, let's try the kinda like concept (again)
Think about...um...lets say...something like...fishing line
Most folks are familiar with regular 'ol fishing line (yup, for catching fish)
...& know its flexible
...& also, strong "in tension" (like fiberglass strands or fibers)
So, yea fishing line
...is "kinda like" or has "like characteristics" of fiberglass strands
Next, imagine, "if" someone was to lay out hundreds of "strands" of fishing line
...& "glue" 'em together
...into a fiberglass like cloth
Now, can ya "see" or imagine how the "resulting" material (fishing line & glue) would now be
...very strong
...super stiff (no longer flexible or bendy)
...& now also, very strong in both tension & compression too
Moving on...
Why is fiberglass strong?
Well...FWIU...glass fibers are really strong, when loaded "in tension" (when the ends of a strand are pulled upon)
...but, they flex & bend quite easily
...&/so, they don't provide much strength when "in compression" (when the ends of a strand are being pushed together)
But
When glass fibers are saturated with "glue"
...& then, "glued" together
...those individual fibers "act as a whole"
...creating a really stiff & strong material
Got ALL of that
...glass fibers...strong (but, only in 1 direction)
...glued together=really strong (in many directions)
OK...now try-n-imagine that...
...got nuthin'?...me too
Now, let's try the kinda like concept (again)
Think about...um...lets say...something like...fishing line
Most folks are familiar with regular 'ol fishing line (yup, for catching fish)
...& know its flexible
...& also, strong "in tension" (like fiberglass strands or fibers)
So, yea fishing line
...is "kinda like" or has "like characteristics" of fiberglass strands
Next, imagine, "if" someone was to lay out hundreds of "strands" of fishing line
...& "glue" 'em together
...into a fiberglass like cloth
Now, can ya "see" or imagine how the "resulting" material (fishing line & glue) would now be
...very strong
...super stiff (no longer flexible or bendy)
...& now also, very strong in both tension & compression too
Master Hack
Well-known member
When is the itching powder applied?
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
I think he's breathing the resin a little too much too.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Out of the blue, someone in the back says:
"If you cut a bunch of that fishing line into (let's say) ~2" pieces
...then, scattered 'em around
...& "glued" 'em together
...that would be "kinda like" CSM (chopped strand mat)"...right?
Yes, Jualla,
...that would be "kinda like" chopped strand mat
...good job!
But, notice how the relatively short strands/fibers (of CSM) would just be "glued" together
...& as such, could "mainly" only provide strength, in a "local area"
Whereas fiberglass cloth with longer strands/fibers could "spread out the load" better
* Kinda like how a "tree" with long roots would be anchored into the ground better (stronger)
...than a tree with shorter roots
See how that would "spread the load" better
...but, now notice how it would only provide strength along the strands
...in (2) directions
...or bi-axially
Now, "if" there were long, "crisscrossing" strands (woven cloth)
...it could provide strength in (4) directions
* The crisscrossing also helps to enhance the strength of the material
...because as each strand "crosses over" each other
...they kinda support & re-enforce each other
"If you cut a bunch of that fishing line into (let's say) ~2" pieces
...then, scattered 'em around
...& "glued" 'em together
...that would be "kinda like" CSM (chopped strand mat)"...right?
Yes, Jualla,
...that would be "kinda like" chopped strand mat
...good job!
But, notice how the relatively short strands/fibers (of CSM) would just be "glued" together
...& as such, could "mainly" only provide strength, in a "local area"
Whereas fiberglass cloth with longer strands/fibers could "spread out the load" better
* Kinda like how a "tree" with long roots would be anchored into the ground better (stronger)
...than a tree with shorter roots
See how that would "spread the load" better
...but, now notice how it would only provide strength along the strands
...in (2) directions
...or bi-axially
Now, "if" there were long, "crisscrossing" strands (woven cloth)
...it could provide strength in (4) directions
* The crisscrossing also helps to enhance the strength of the material
...because as each strand "crosses over" each other
...they kinda support & re-enforce each other
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Why am I "jabbering" about this?
Well...I've decided that I'ma gonna try/use some 1708 Bi-axial fiberglass cloth, for this monocoque project
The 1708 FG cloth has long fibers, oriented on a 45* angle
...but/also, has a layer of CSM stitched to the bottom
So, (currently) I'ma thinkin' about doin' up/tryin' (2) layers (or plies) of the 1708 FG cloth
...with a layer of (a bit heavier weight) CSM (chopped strand mat) in between
* This (3) layer "set up" should be "in essence" like a (5) layer (or ply) fiberglass lay up
** Also, by "crisscrossing" or orienting the (2) layers, of 1708, in opposite directions
...should make the structure stronger (overall)
...& in multiple directions
Well...I've decided that I'ma gonna try/use some 1708 Bi-axial fiberglass cloth, for this monocoque project
The 1708 FG cloth has long fibers, oriented on a 45* angle
...but/also, has a layer of CSM stitched to the bottom
So, (currently) I'ma thinkin' about doin' up/tryin' (2) layers (or plies) of the 1708 FG cloth
...with a layer of (a bit heavier weight) CSM (chopped strand mat) in between
* This (3) layer "set up" should be "in essence" like a (5) layer (or ply) fiberglass lay up
** Also, by "crisscrossing" or orienting the (2) layers, of 1708, in opposite directions
...should make the structure stronger (overall)
...& in multiple directions
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Amazon guy showed up with some stuff
*Hmmm...why is it always a "guy"??
Where are all of them Amazon women, we always "heard about"?
So far, I got, a gallon of Acetone (for clean up)
...a couple of rolls of masking tape
...& a can of mold release wax
* for polishing "inside" of the mold, which helps to get the fiberglass part to separate or "release" from the mold, when done
A (4) piece set of "fin' rollers (for pushin'/smoothin' out any air bubbles)
Some disposable paint tray liners
...a 4" roller handle/holder
...& a 3-pack of 9" roller "heads" (for applying the resin)
* I'ma gonna cut 'em in 1/2 so we have (6) roller heads
3 gallons of Polyester resin & MEKP (catalyst)
...as per our "calculations"
10 yards (30') of (~50' wide) 1708 fiberglass cloth
*Hmmm...why is it always a "guy"??
Where are all of them Amazon women, we always "heard about"?
So far, I got, a gallon of Acetone (for clean up)
...a couple of rolls of masking tape
...& a can of mold release wax
* for polishing "inside" of the mold, which helps to get the fiberglass part to separate or "release" from the mold, when done
A (4) piece set of "fin' rollers (for pushin'/smoothin' out any air bubbles)
Some disposable paint tray liners
...a 4" roller handle/holder
...& a 3-pack of 9" roller "heads" (for applying the resin)
* I'ma gonna cut 'em in 1/2 so we have (6) roller heads
3 gallons of Polyester resin & MEKP (catalyst)
...as per our "calculations"
10 yards (30') of (~50' wide) 1708 fiberglass cloth
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
*Hmmm...why is it always a "guy"??
Where are all of them Amazon women, we always "heard about"?
Cuz wimmen can't drive well and get lost easily??
Functional Artist
Well-known member
* Project update/note
Did anyone notice that I have Polyester resin, instead of Epoxy resin?
That's because, I quickly found out that Epoxy resin costs, a lot more than Polyester resin (some places, almost double)
The best deal that I could find, was a (2) gallon of Polyester resin
...w/30 yards, of 50" wide 1708 FG cloth package/bundle for ~$150.00
...& I ordered an extra gallon ~$45.00
So, that brings us to ~$200.00 for the "main" FG materials, for this part of the project
** Bonus question...
How much do you'all think 10-yards (~30 ft.) of 50" wide 1708 FG cloth weighs?
Don't look...down
Um...nope...no lookin'
Ok...I saw Denny alookin'
...so, everybody can look
Did anyone notice that I have Polyester resin, instead of Epoxy resin?
That's because, I quickly found out that Epoxy resin costs, a lot more than Polyester resin (some places, almost double)
The best deal that I could find, was a (2) gallon of Polyester resin
...w/30 yards, of 50" wide 1708 FG cloth package/bundle for ~$150.00
...& I ordered an extra gallon ~$45.00
So, that brings us to ~$200.00 for the "main" FG materials, for this part of the project
** Bonus question...
How much do you'all think 10-yards (~30 ft.) of 50" wide 1708 FG cloth weighs?
Don't look...down
Um...nope...no lookin'
Ok...I saw Denny alookin'
...so, everybody can look
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
I spy the reason this gab is going on. Or should I say gafa.
Carry on, I can't wait to see how this comes out.
I remember my dad making aircraft tail cones out of fiber glass in the garage. The smell still lingers in my memory. The dust has subsided though. Had to make a winglet recently and brought back memories.
Carry on, I can't wait to see how this comes out.
I remember my dad making aircraft tail cones out of fiber glass in the garage. The smell still lingers in my memory. The dust has subsided though. Had to make a winglet recently and brought back memories.