Building a go kart size Aerial Atom

[Functional Artist]

Startin' to get stuff primed & "sealed" up

After some wire brushin' & scrubbin' & sandin' & final wipe down, I hung the swing arm, the speed controller mounting plate, the battyery hold down bracket, the A-frames & the pedal mounting brackets.
…& then, gave everything a good coat of self etching primer
(etching-helps it to "bite" into or "adhere" onto bare metal)

* Except, I left the ends of the A-frames "exposed" or bare
(I didn't want to coat/contaminate the spindle mounting area, if/when I weld 'er up solid)

 

[Functional Artist]

While that stuff was dryin', I worked on the steering wheel
...'er added some switches to the steering wheel

I am gonna use a standard 12VDC 20A automotive type switch to turn the speed controller On/Off
…& a 125VAC 20A On/Off/On switch to toggle from forward to reverse

The ON/Off circuit is "pack voltage" (~60V nominal) actually, it should top out ~ 66.5V fully charged
...but, when I tested, it only carries ~14.5mA

From extensive research, I have come to the conclusion that most any switch that can handle 20A @ 12VDC
...should be able to handle less than .5A (1/2 of an amp) @ 60VDC
* But, this is just my opinion

Even thinkin' it thru, worst case scenario, if the switch fails the SC would just be stuck "powered on"
...or stuck "powered off"
...but, no imminent danger

The SC would still act/operate as normal
...if stuck "off" the system would be off
...if stuck "on" the system would be on
...but, it would not "take off" or be "self powering" or anything
…& the throttle would still operate as normal too

The forward/reverse circuit tested to only ~4.5V
(IMO most any switch should be able to handle 4.5VDC so, I didn't even bother to check the Amp draw)

The first "On" will signal the controller to operate the motor to go forward
…in the middle "Off" will be kinda like Neutral
…the second "On" will signal the SC to operate the motor in reverse


So, it looks like these switches will fit into the indent slots in the "bars" of the steering wheel
...then, I marked 'em & started drillin' some holes

I was thinkin to put 'em toward the bottom, at first
...but, now I'm thinkin' "up top", thumb actuated will be best

 

[Shep1970]

Nice, I’ve been using a simple 12v atv key switch just for power on (works fine) mind you this is not the main breaker also like in your system. Alright I didn’t want to interrupt, it’s coming together nicely.

Shep

 

[Functional Artist]

Nice, I’ve been using a simple 12v atv key switch just for power on (works fine) mind you this is not the main breaker also like in your system. Alright I didn’t want to interrupt, it’s coming together nicely. Shep

Yup, almost all of my karts have "cheap Chinese" scooter type key switches
…& I've never had a problem

But, here we are workin' with almost 72VDC
...so, I'm being extra/more cautious
...& also don't want to give false/bad advise

To clarify, the 150VDC 50A circuit breaker (the one in the multi-meter box, now)
...is the "main" breaker (the "big" power/amperage goes thru this one)

The On/Off switch (the one on the steering wheel) is "small" power
...& just "signals" the SC to turn "on or off" upon request

 

[Functional Artist]

A little whittlin'
...& Boom

We got switches, well within reach

Kinda looks like they supposed to be there

* I angled the terminals on the switches so, they "lean" toward the center
...as to keep the wiring "in close"

** To "illuminate" when the On/Off switch is "switched" on, I "colored" the exposed edge of the switch
...just used a gold sharpie

 

[Functional Artist]

While cleanin' up the "main frame", I noticed/remembered that the front edge of the A-frame mount didn't quite reach up to the frame rails & could use/needed some extra support

At first, I was thinkin' to use a piece of pipe
...but, that's kinda "over doin' it"

Then I was thinkin', we need some "pedal stops" too
…so, maybe we can go "dual purpose"

I rounded up some 1/8" steel
...cut a couple of pieces of ~1 1/2" x 2"
…drilled 5/16" holes in 'em (in the appropriate spots)
…& added some 5/16" nuts-n-bolts to use as the adjustable "stops"

 

[Tpdingo]

While cleanin' up the "main frame", I noticed/remembered that the front edge of the A-frame mount didn't quite reach up to the frame rails & could use/needed some extra support

At first, I was thinkin' to use a piece of pipe
...but, that's kinda "over doin' it"

Then I was thinkin', we need some "pedal stops" too
…so, maybe we can go "dual purpose"

I rounded up some 1/8" steel
...cut a couple of pieces of ~1 1/2" x 2"
…drilled 5/16" holes in 'em (in the appropriate spots)
…& added some 5/16" nuts-n-bolts to use as the adjustable "stops"

I hope those are lock nuts or your foot is going to the floor.

 

[Functional Artist]

I hope those are lock nuts or your foot is going to the floor.

I welded 'em on
...so, their kinda "locked" (I guess you could call it)
...but, the "cinch" nuts on back side should "lock" the pedal stop bolts "in place"

 

[Functional Artist]

Cleanin' & cleanin' & cleanin' & cleanin'
...& cleanin' some more

I've used a scraper, a file, wire brushes, wire wheel, sand paper, sanding sponges, emery cloth
...& even some paint stripping pads

I've worked on 'er for a couple of hours here & a couple of hours there
...but, it's still not quite clean enough (for my likin' )

There are just so many "surfaces" & "nooks-n-crannies"

 

[Functional Artist]

Another couple of hours of smoothin' & deburrin'
…& I think we are "finally" about there

Also, cut/trimmed the frame "nubs" off

I wiped everything down "good" with degreaser
...but, what about ALL of these "nooks-n-crannies" that I can't get in to?
…& it's too big to do a "dunk" type rinse

maybe just "hose 'er down" (to get into & kinda wash everything out)
...& then, just let 'er "drip dry"

So, I put some of the degreaser into a "pump action" spray bottle
…& gave 'er a "spray bath"

 

[andrecht]

She is looking good

 

[Functional Artist]

I finally got the main frame all sealed up

I removed the steering shaft & primed it separately

* added a layer of masking tape, to keep the primer out of the splines, that the steering wheel slide on to
…& it held the spacer nicely for priming too

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm gonna assemble everything & do some testin', before we give 'er a nice paint job.

So, I worked the front suspension first
...A-frames
...spindles
...spring/shock absorbers
...wheels

Then, started on the swing arm, in the rear
...spring/shock absorbers
...bearings
...axle
...sp-rotor (I was told, by my local go kart parts supplier, this is a 60's term, meaning a sprocket/rotor combo)
...caliper

When, I went to put the wheels on, I remembered that we need to make some "spacers" to keep 'em in place

 

[Functional Artist]

Spacers

To make the spacers
(It's kinda difficult to get an accurate measurement with the wheel in place)

So, I went about it another way

First, I made sure axle was centered
...put the wheels exactly where they needed to be
...made sure there was adequate threads for securing the wheel
...marked the axle
…& then, simply measured the distance between the marks

 

[Functional Artist]

I chopped a couple of 1" ID. pieces of steel tube @ ~7 1/2" (with metal cut-off saw)
…& then, de-burred the ends a bit (with the grinder)

Installed the "keys"
...then, slid the wheels on
…& tightened the "retaining nuts"

 

[Functional Artist]

a slight deversion

While tightening the retaining nuts, on the rear axle, the 1/2" driver bit snapped off
...pretty much "flush" with the bit holder

I tried everything, that I could think of
...but, couldn't get a good "bite" on it

maybe try the "welded nut" trick

So, I sat a 5/16" nut, on the end of the bit holder, over the broke off piece
...held it "in place" with the ground clamp

Starting from the inside bottom, I filled in/welded the end of the broke off piece, to the nut
…& then, used that "nut" as a "handle" to extract the piece

The heat from welding may have kinda expanded the bit holder, aiding the release

* Kinda accidentally welded it to my ground clamp
…& then, had to pour some coffee on the bit holder, for a quick kool down

 

[Functional Artist]

I installed the motor & chain
…& the speed controller & connection box

Then, commenced getting all of the wiring ran, to where it goes
...& everything connected up

 

[Functional Artist]

We got power

Installed the (5) 12V 15AH Mighty Max batteries
…& clamped 'em in-place with the battery hold down

Then, used some Industrial Velcro to secure/mount the circuit breaker on to battery #1

This circuit breaker is the "main cut-off" for the whole system

So, this way it's easy to visually located
...& easily accessible

Plus (+), (he he, I made an electrical pun) the positive battery cables are "short & sweet"
...battery (+) terminal to CB (in)
...& CB (out) to speed controller battery (+)

 

[Functional Artist]

Kinda gettin' things wrapped up a bit

Installed the seat

She is about ready to test run just waitin' on some cables, to connect
...the thumb throttle to the pedal
...& also the caliper to the brake pedal

Gotta be able to, get 'er goin'
…& then, be able to stop too


A systems check is next

 

[Functional Artist]

Slide Show

I put together a "slide show" type video

Another medium/way to document the kart
…& also to share the build with my YouTubers

* You'all may recognize some of these pics

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WInCThZye6k