Building a go kart size Aerial Atom

[bthompson224]

Use tube straps. They have the 180 degree ones and the full wrap 360 degree ones. Zero mods to the frame to mount, they mount to the scoop only. Pics for example only.

 

[Functional Artist]

Use tube straps. They have the 180 degree ones and the full wrap 360 degree ones. Zero mods to the frame to mount, they mount to the scoop only. Pics for example only.

Maybe a possibility

I use the 360* type straps for mounting/routing the hydraulic hoses on my tow trucks.

Still workin' on that
...& gotta get some metal

Until then, I was figurin' on where/how to mount the speed controller/connectors/wiring
…& found this plastic pencil box @ Walmart (~$2.00) (~9" x 6" x 1 1/2")

It's pretty sturdy, with a strong latch & even a separate compartment that the 50A shunt fits into nicely

 

[Functional Artist]

Used a step drill bit to ream out a nice hole
...pilot hole, small step bit & then, the bigger step bit

I enlarged the hole up to/just until the edge of the lid
...so, as to not weaken it

The lid has a nice lip that kinda helps maintain the overall structure
…& i'm already choppin' a big hole into the side of the box

Then, I used a square & knife to extend the hole
...to allow the wiring to drop thru

That'll keep all of our connections clean, dry, safe & nice-n-tidy too

 

[Functional Artist]

Should be able to just mount 'em on a shelf right behind the battery box

A piece of 4" wide 16g. (~1/16") steel, mounted across the upper frame rails
...will support/hold the speed controller & the wiring connector box well

It looks like this metal shelf easily clears the sprocket/chain
...will act as a heatsink (to help dissipate SC heat)
…& will also provide the SC & wiring box some protection from the chain/sprocket/axle

 

[Functional Artist]

I got some metal

Before we can construct a sub frame for the cover
...we gotta have it fitted to exactly where it's to be mounted

First lets "snug" it up to the seat back bars a bit

Marked 'em & used the step drills to ream out some holes
(got a minor crack but, shouldn't be a problem)

Next, I used a straight edge & a gold marker to "highlight the material that need removing

Then, a little cuttin', to removed some of the excess material
…& some light "body work" with the grinder to clean 'er up

Yup, that looks pretty snug

 

[Functional Artist]

Before we move on, lets check the "stance" or look

I like the way it looks when the cover is sittin' (almost) right on the frame, in the front
…& ~1" above the frame, in the rear

Notice, the cover's "body lines" seem to follow the frames "body lines" pretty good
…& the tires will still clear nicely too (even within full suspension travel)

* If it's mounted with the rear higher up, the top will be "more level"
...but, I just don't think it looks right

 

[andrecht]

You not wrong...that back end does look quite well proportioned

 

[Functional Artist]

While designing a sub frame, to help support the rear cover, I noticed that there is a nice flat area in the back

Hmmmm
...maybe a good place for the brake lights

This 60V system is gonna need (5) 12V bulbs wired in series.

I measured, marked the light locations
…& then, used a straight edge to help "keep 'em in line"

I put (1) on each end, (1) in the middle & centered the other (2)
...but, kept 'em kinda closer to the outer ones

Then, used a step drill bit to enlarge the holes to 3/4"

Yup, that should work

 

[Functional Artist]

Gettin' back to the sub frame

A piece of 1" square tube, with a kool wrinkle finish on it, will make for a good-n-strong rear support bar
(it will also "prop" the rear up a bit, to help lineup the "body lines")

A couple pieces of 1" x 1/8" steel, will strengthen the bottom sides (their kinds heavy but, really strong)

& A piece of 2" x 16g. flat steel will "line" the "hoop"
(this will tie the side bars & back support together)

I used a lawn chair to hold/support the plastic cover during assembly
(it just didn't sit on a workbench too well)

First, I bolted the side rails to the rear bar
...then, began forming the "hoop" strap to fit nice-n-tight inside of the "scoop"

It looked like a "formed" end would be the best way to come around-n-connect with the sides
…& for added strength, I brought the extra material on around to meet back up with the "hoop" again

I evenly spread out some 1/4" nuts-n-bolts to attach the sub frame
…& kinda giv'er some "bling"

 

[Functional Artist]

That seemed to come out pretty good

Then, I took 'er all apart, for some smoothin', cleanin' & paintin'

I sprayed the subframe with just some, spray can, satan black
…& while that was dryin', I scrubbed the plastic "shell" with some dish soap

 

[Functional Artist]

While all of that's dryin', how about them ribs?

To kinda duplicate the Aerial Atom look we need to/should add some "ribs" to the "rib rails"

They usually have (5) "ribs" (like the diagram shows)
...but, this seems a bit much
(I'm thinkin' (maybe) we can/should reduce this down a bit)

The actual car is
...a lot larger (so, there is a lot further distance between contact points)
…& it's also made of thinner materials (so, understandably it would/should have more bracing)

Another thing, I think the front or first "rib" should be/go from the top-to-the-bottom
...to help brace & strengthen the shock area
...NOT from the bottom-to-the-top, as shown in the diagram

Then, maybe only (2) or (3) other "ribs"
...but, still tryin' to incorporate the ~45* triangles
...to help maintain the look

I'm kinda likin' the (3) "rib" style
…& it would only need (6) bars, (12) notches, (12) welds & only (12) spatters to clean up

Where as the (5) "rib" style would need
...(10) bars, (20) notches, (20) welds & there would be (20) spatters to clean up

Whadda ya'all think?

 

[Functional Artist]

Hmmm, OK so, I set the cutter up to cut ~45* angles
…& went ahead & cut the ends off of a bunch of various lengths of pipe
(so, I could do some "more exact" test fittin')

I also set up a "stop" or a "jig" (I guess you would call it)
...to but each pipe up to for cuttin'
(so, they will all have the same cut in the same area)

* I set 'er up to leave a bit of the end of the pipe
...for better/easier notching

Then, I cut the other end off
...180* from the first cut

** Had a kool row of scraps in the end

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Definitely liking the 3 rib style.

 

[Functional Artist]

Yea (3) looks kool
...but, it seems like that's just gettin' a little too far away from the look of an Atom
...& my dad always told me "if your gonna do something, ya might as well do it right!"

So, I went back to the drawin' board
…& tried a few different variations with (4) "ribs"
…& also a few variations with (5) "ribs"

Well, I'ma gonna go with the (5) "ribs"
…with just (4) it always looked like there was something missing

Then, I started "fine tuning" the notches
...to help 'em fit nice-n-snug

 

[andrecht]

Ribs are pretty sweet.....

 

[landuse]

Looking good FA!

 

[Functional Artist]

I "tacked" 'em in place @ first
...just to check

Yup, looks good to me

Then, welded 'em on good

(used my "splatter blocker" to help protect stuff, while welding)

 

[Functional Artist]

Now we gotta, make the other side match
...but, that's easier said than done

First, I cut (5) "ribs", same as the left side
…& tried, to do a dry fit
...but, where do they go?

Yup, gotta do some measurin' & markin'

Measurin'
I did the top rail first, started measurin' at the seat "side brace" bar
...recording the data as I went along
(so, I would have a nice even starting point to work with)
…& then, did the lower rail, startin' at where it meets the "motor box"

Markin
Then, marked those coordinates on the right side

 

[Functional Artist]

Now that we know where to put the "ribs"
…& have 'em fitted pretty well

We gotta get everything cleaned up, for weldin'

I put the alignment marks high/low as to not remove them during the clean up
…& used the "splatter blocker" to protect the tires/suspension while weldin'

Then, tacked 'em in place

 

[Functional Artist]

Lookin' thru from the sides & down from the top
...them "ribs" seem to line up pretty goodly

After weldin', we gotta do lots of clean-up

Mainly wanted to get rid of the flux, splatter & smooth 'em a bit
...but, keep the kinda rough industrial look

I kinda over did it in the last pic
...don't know what I was thinkin'...?

Maybe I'll re-weld it so, it'll match

* Yup, whole kart built with HF 90A flux core welder
…& 1/2" schedule 40 water pipe

** Clean up (all welds)
1) wire brush (removes most of the flux)
2) hand scraper (removes most of the splatter balls)
3) wire wheel (smooths & deburrs)
4) rough wheel (to remove high spots/unwanted material)
5) 80 grit sand pad (mainly-to clean up the "rough grinder" marks)
6) die grinder (to get into the tight spots/nooks-n-crannies)