Building a go kart size Aerial Atom

[Functional Artist]

My foot pedal throttle doesn't seem to fit in this situation too well

So, maybe we'll try some standard go kart type pedals

But, how are we gonna get 'em mounted?
...don't want to drill holes in the frame (to weaken it)
…& don't want to weld 'em on (difficult to adjust or change your mind)

Maybe we can make some mounts that will bolt on
...using existing bolts/holes

So, I made a couple of brackets that will mount to the suspension bolts
…then, marked where the pedal pivot needs to be welded on

* I couldn't get accurate measurements, while sitting in the seat
...so, I used some old rubber boots for sizing/positioning of them pedals

To make "even" low spots on each mount, for the pivot pipe, I first bolted 'em together
...drilled a pilot hole
…& then, drilled 'em out, up to 3/8"

So then, when I took 'em apart
...the pivot pipes fit nicely

 

[Functional Artist]

A little "metal fusin'"
…& (2) become (1)

They seem to be "good-n-solid"
...clear the frame rails well
…& the "stops" even interact with the base nicely

I tried switchin' 'em the other way (last pic)
...just to see


Yea, that won't confuse anyone
...red means go
...green means stop

 

[Functional Artist]

Now that we have pedal's, what we gonna hook 'em to?

The accelerator pedal needs to be connected to a Hall Effect type throttle
…& the brake petal, to the caliper

We should be able to use a thumb type throttle, actuated by a cable
…& the caliper will be cable actuated too.

Not exactly sure where to put the thumb throttle
...but, the caliper needs to be mounted in a pretty specific region (we'll work on that first)

So, I removed the swing arm
...then, mounted the axle/bearings/sprocket & rotor assembly
...mounted the motor
…& measured/cut/installed & adjusted the chain

Now that we know exactly where the rotor will reside, we can work on makin' a caliper mount.

I initially wanted to use/make a mount that would span from the square tube in front of the axle, to the tube behind the axle
...but, the angle that the caliper needed to be, to interact with the rotor, just wouldn't work out

So, I make a mount that only mounted to the rear tube
...just gotta make sure it's good-n-secure

I also initially wanted to weld it to the inside edge of the tube
...but, the angle thing got in the way again

Mounted on top of the tube seemed to work out well so, I figured that I'd add a "hook" to the rear/mounting end of the bracket (for some additional support)

Then, I clamped 'er down
...double checking the alignment (brake pads to rotor) side to side
…& also makin' sure the rotor was fully into the caliper, while not actually touching (caliper to rotor) on either end

Then, when I spun the axle/rotor, to triple check alignment
…& found that the rotor is warped just a bit

It still seemed to work within the "parameters"
...we'll just have to see if it can be felt while driving

Covered everything with the splatter blocker & tacked 'er down

Yup, it seems to work fine
…& clear the sprocket/chain nicely too

 

[Functional Artist]

After weldin' 'er on, I was thinkin' that we have a nice 2D connection
...but, a 3D connection would be even better

So, I added another small piece of 1/8" steel
...that tags the caliper bracket to the swing arm (from another direction)

 

[Functional Artist]

Now for the thumb throttle

The cord/wire on it is ~36" long & being "cable actuated", it can go just about anywhere
...but, it's made of plastic & has moving parts, so we gotta keep that in mind too

At first I thought/tried a few places up/near the throttle pedal
...but, couldn't find a suitable spot that couldn't/wouldn't get accidentally "kicked" &/or pelted by rocks/debris from the front tire

Lookin' around in the rear area, it's startin' to get kinda tight back there with the motor, sprocket/rotor/chain/axle & shock/springs all "movin'/bouncin' around"

But, I think I found a "safe spot"
...kinda right up/under the right arm pit, on the side of the battery box
(the wire/core even "nice-n-safely" wraps around the battery box in/toward the center of the kart)

So, I drilled a hole to temporarily secure the thumb throttle "post", for "test fittin" & then welding
…& used a nut, bolt & washer to "bolt 'er down
...then, beveled the bottom edge of the "post" in an effort to keep the welding "build up" to a minimum
(to keep 'er in the gap)

Yup, that seems to work nicely

 

[Budget GoKart]

Awesome progress dude it looks awesome im going to try to get some neigbors and cousins karts running because im bored

 

[Functional Artist]

I kept my HF 90A welder set on "high"
...but, in an effort to keep the "build up" down to a minimum, I turned the speed setting down to ~3
(so, it would not put out as much material)

Before weldin', I covered everything with the "splatter blocker"

* While I was there I went ahead & clamped down & welded on a couple of "tall" 1/4" nuts
...to use for/with the battery hold down bracket.
…& used an old Chevy Valve Cover "washer" to help keep em' level

 

[Functional Artist]

I ordered some cables to connect the brake & throttle

While waitin' on them, I started thinkin' about the "forward controls"
...that would be a switch for the "power lock" on/off, the "Astern" reverse control & the dashboard

* I'm gonna mount the 3-speed selector switch into the rear connection box

This way it will be easily "parent" accessible
...but, not up front to be confused with other controls

There's a little bit of room on the dash board
...but, I was thinkin, maybe we can mount the switches right into the steering wheel

This way they will be easily "operator" accessible
…while helping to keep the dash simple

Speakin' of the dash board, we gotta add some bracin'
...as of now, it is just a piece of plastic, that mounts to the dash bar

So, I rounded up a piece of 1/8" x 1/2" steel
…& added a custom bend
...then, welded 'er on

Drilled & tapped a couple of "lower" mounting holes
...then, welded on some "tabs" to drill & tap for "upper" bolt holes

That look's pretty-good-n-solid
...& there's still plenty of room, if we need to add a switch or something

 

[Functional Artist]

Need to make some cable housing/mounting brackets (nuthin' fancy but, they gotta be strong)
…(2) for the throttle cable, (1) for each end
…& just (1) for the front/pedal end of the brake cable

So, I marked (2) pieces of 1/8" x 1/2" steel @ ~3/4" long
...drilled a couple of holes
...cut some cable "slots"
...made some cut notches (before cleaning & removing my cut marks)
...cleaned 'em up
...cut 'em apart
...& then, rounded the top edges off a bit

* I've found that it's easier to "grip" & to work on, small stuff, while it's still is/attached to a bigger piece

Can't see in the pics too well
...but, this is how the thumb throttle looks
...this is where the bracket will mount
…& this is where/how the cable should/will travel thru that bracket

Then the cable can/will follow the frame rail up toward the pedal

 

[Functional Artist]

Workin' on/figurin' where to put the front cable mount/brackets
I was thinkin' to just put 'em down on the "flat plate" where the pedal mounts bolt down?(see pics)
...but, I noticed that for the cable to intersect/connect with/to the pedal, the cable angle seems like it would be a little too steep

Then, I was thinkin' maybe, mount them up a bit higher, on the lower frame rail? (angled in just a bit)

This way seems to "line up" better
…& give us the option to use higher connection points on the pedals (if necessary)

* Either way they should still be "out of harms way"

 

[landuse]

Looking good!!

 

[Functional Artist]

I got a 50" roll of throttle/brake cable housing from BMI for ~$10.00
(should last a minute)

So, starting at the "tacked on" rear throttle cable mounting "tab",
...inserted a cable end
...& also, the end of the cable housing

Then, ran the cable housing along the lower "rib rail" up to the area where the front "tab" should mount
...& marked it for cutting. (gold on black)

The HF "cut off tool" easily & cleanly sliced right thru it

After double checkin'
...how the cable would "line up" &/or interact with both the throttle & pedal attachment points
...I clamped the tab in place for welding

Checked everything a third (& final) time
...covered everything with the "splatter blocker"
...& welder 'er on good

* While I was at it, I welded the rear throttle cable "tab" on good
...& the one on the left front, for mounting the brake cable too

 

[Functional Artist]

3-speed switch

Still gotta a lot of "clean up" to do on the "main frame"
...but, let's take a break on that for a minute & work on the wiring a bit

First, I cut a hole & mounted the 3-speed switch, into the side of the connection box
…cut the plug off
...& crimped spade terminals onto each of the wires

Then, I simply slid/plugged each one of them onto the terminals of the switch

 

[Functional Artist]

We need to make a wiring harness to bring (some of) the necessary wires up to the front.

So, I used (2) ~4' pieces of 22-4 wire
(4 individual 22g. wires red, black, green & white, in a single outer cover)
...(1) piece for the logic wires
...(1) piece for the meter wires

I shot a little mist of black paint on the outer cover, of the (1) for the logic wires, to be able to tell them apart
…& then, ran them both thru a nylon covering, for extra protection

Then, I installed (2) plugs on each end of the "logic cable"
…(1) plug will connect the on/off switch to the "power lock" plug, on the controller
...& the other will connect the reverse switch to the "Astern" plug, on the controller

For the "meter cable", I installed ring terminals on the "connection box" end
...to connect the signal wires (B- & P-) to the shunt
...& also a bullet terminal to connect the (B+) to the "Voltage indicator" plug, on the controller
...there are screw tabs that make for "easy connections" on the meter end

 

[Functional Artist]

Here is the speed controller wiring definitions

60V 2,000W Boma Brushless motor
1.) thick red (+) & thick black (-) = Power/Battery
2.) thick blue, thick yellow, thick green = (power to) Motor
3.) thin red, yellow, green, blue & black = Hall (to Motor)
4.) thin red, orange = Electric Lock (key switch)
5.) thin red (5V), black (GND), green (signal) = Turn The (Throttle)
6.) thin red (+) black (-) (red plug) = Charge (port)
7.) thin orange, white = The Brake
8.) thin white, black = Brake Light
9.) thin orange, black = Indicator Light
10.) thin yellow, black = Astern (for reverse switch)
11.) thin red = Battery Indicator
12.) thin orange, black, blue = 3-speed (switch)

Now that I have all of the controller wires/plugs in the connection box
…& most of the necessary stuff connected (on/off, 3-speed switch, reverse switch, throttle, meter etc.)
...or at least "ready to be connected"

Next, we need to work on the connections for the battery

To protect our system, I'm gonna (try) a MidNite 150V 50A circuit breaker
(usually used to protect the wiring in Solar Charging Systems)
http://www.midnitesolar.com/product...=Breakers&productCat_ID=16&sortOrder=18&act=p

So, I was thinkin' it would be neat, kool & convenient to have the CB mounted on the first battery,
(within reach of the "cock pit")
...but, we need to make a custom enclosure or box

Hmmm
I have a "dead" HF multi-meter
…& maybe the case will work in this situation

Just gotta clean 'er out
…& cut a slot out of the side, for the face/switch of the CB to protrude thru

 

[Functional Artist]

Had to notch out the "cover" just a bit
…& then, drill a couple of holes, for the battery cables

Yup, fits pretty good

So then, I sat it "in place" on the first battery (I'll secure it down with "industrial Velcro" later)
...& ran the 10g. red positive (+) cable, from the controller "Batt" plug, to the CB "in" (++)
…& added another piece, of red 10g wire, going from the CB "out" to the positive (+) terminal of the battery pack

 

[Bansil]

You need to cut up the dial and silicone/glue back on multi meter to cover cb sticker

 

[Functional Artist]

You need to cut up the dial and silicone/glue back on multi meter to cover cb sticker

Yup, the lid/cover goes back on

I just left if off in the last couple of pics, to show the connections & cable routing.

 

[Functional Artist]

Tying up some loose ends (here & there)

Almost forgot, I gotta weld the spindle brackets on

So, first, I made sure the chassis was sittin' level side to side & front to back)

Then, adjusted the brackets to ~85* (leanin' toward the rear of the kart)
...covered most everything with the "splatter blocker"
…& then, applied some kinda heavy duty "tac" welds

*I'm kinda concerned/uncertain about how this "totally custom & experimental" front suspension is gonna function
…& I don't want to weld 'er "on good" just yet
('till I try a few test runs to see how everything's gonna work)

(3) tac's per side should be HD enough to test on
...but, not too hard to cut the welds & re-adjust (if necessary)

 

[sikbrik]

Good idea hooking up the 3 speed switch...I hard-wired the "fast" setting and a neighbor kid went over a small stone wall and into a small tree... thankfully with a helmet and no real damage done to either the kid or the kart but next season it will have low speed wired up in case my kid lets friends on it again.

It's coming together nicely! Thanks for sharing all the pics and ideas.