A Dingos Tale part 2

Whitetrashrocker

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Yup, it looks like your king pin bushings are "gone" :surrender:

Probably need something like these (~$0.50 ea.) 😉
https://www.bmikarts.com/Nylon-Bushing--58-ID-_p_1343.html

While your at it, check to see "if" the king pin "barrel" got damaged, while "running" without bushings
...also, maybe check to see "how loose" your tie rod ends too
...then, add some lubrication to ALL of them "joints" :thumbsup:
Bushings? Never heard of em.
The C has oval holes and the pin bolts have rings wore in them. They are beyond repair.

I think you missed the sarcasm.
This front end is gonna get cut off and replaced with some A arms and shocks. Kinda the whole point of this "not a build" thread.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Lo barato sale caro.

The donor brake set up never really worked well. We'll not at all. Even after I took em all apart and cleaned out the crud and corrosion. Ended up buying a complete pre-bled system. Bolted right on. I only had to shorten the threaded push rod and shorten the reservoir hose.

Since i dont have steering, perhaps i should have brakes. Right bobO?
20240315_185043.jpg20240315_185055.jpg

And here's my solution for a chain tensioner.
20240105_205233.jpg
 

Rat

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It seems your Ackerman is backwards.
There really is no hard fast rule as to whether the tie rods should be ahead of or following the spindle... I do know the difference plays a part in the caster angle as well as one tends to be more sensetive to input.

AFAIK the only reason the Ackerman is traditionally ahead of the spindle on karts is for pedal clearance, and to give it a little bit of protection from head on impact damage.

I think we all know orintation is fairly irrelevant, something (or some things) is getting bent or broken when you bounce a gopher hole racing across a field, or clip a tree on a trail going into a corner too hot.
 

Denny

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There really is no hard fast rule as to whether the tie rods should be ahead of or following the spindle... I do know the difference plays a part in the caster angle as well as one tends to be more sensetive to input.

AFAIK the only reason the Ackerman is traditionally ahead of the spindle on karts is for pedal clearance, and to give it a little bit of protection from head on impact damage.

I think we all know orintation is fairly irrelevant, something (or some things) is getting bent or broken when you bounce a gopher hole racing across a field, or clip a tree on a trail going into a corner too hot.
What I meant was his outside wheel are turning further than his inside wheels in a turn. And that is backwards. The inside wheel needs to turn tighter.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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It seems your Ackerman is backwards.
I saw that too. The donor had proper geometry, the dingo had it too. But when I put them together it doesn't.
Not quite sure how to fix it. Maybe making the rod ends on the steering column have their own mount instead of sharing the bolt.
Perhaps it doesn't even matter for the terrain I'm on.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Found some waterpipe and made a couple hoops.
20240421_185440.jpg
Remade a few tabs to fit better on the a-arms, and a set for the top shock mounts.
I think this is going to work. I got the a-arms tacked in and just need to notch the hoops and tack them in. Then I can see if it stands on its own and what the spring rate feels like.
20240428_183144.jpg
Feet for scale.
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Pulled this nose guard off the donor quad. What do ya think? I might add it for some cross bracing and looks.
20240428_183047.jpg
 
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Whitetrashrocker

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As any normal person would do, I measured and welded my tabs square to the frame and symmetrical to each other.
Got it put back together to "give 'er a spin round the track, she how she feels"
It had so much caster I couldn't turn. The geometry made it where I was lifting the weight of the kart with the castor. And the camber was also too much and only got worse with flex.
Out came the grinder and chopped off the tabs.
Try again.
OK I'm gonna pay real close attention to the king pin this time.
Left side welded back in place. Kingpin set at a much better angle 3° vs the 10° castor and as close to 0 as I could with the camber.
Right side fell in real close to the other side. But some things amiss! Hmm
See if you can spot it.

1000004209.jpg


1000004208.jpg

The pic angle isn't the best.
The front tab is the same on both sides. The angle is not the same for the arm pivot and the shock tab is considerably different.
But all the point to point measurements are the same.... Just not in a 3D world.

I was scratching my head over this. Measure. Stand back and look.
Measure some more. WTF!

Took the arms and set them next to each other on a flat surface. Hmm. Ones bent.
Bent in such a way I couldn't tell by just holding them. But enough to cause bad alignment.

Well here I am again but this time I'm going double a-arm.
No more camber issues with suspension flex.

20240529_191735.jpg

And of course tires....
None of the spindle or hubs or tires will cross fit.
Gonna have to get bigger rears so it don't look funny. The left one was the stock manco. Middle was the single arm quad.

20240529_191810.jpg
 
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