2018 - Manco Dingo suspension & a little extra

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BeaterofAincrad

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Thanks, I was thinking about that but even now I may not have enough room behind the seat for the gas tank to be on the motor.

I’m 95% sure the welds are solid, it’s just the square tube is 1/16” thick. I’m afraid it might collapse/snap off if I don’t have angle iron as a support. But I didn’t want the extra weight/work if it was going to be fine without it.
 

Tpdingo

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There is always my way of testing the welds.

 

BeaterofAincrad

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Aight, I’ve got a spot in mind. I can get a good 8’ of distance on our quad on it but other than that I don’t have a good place to jump it anymore/yet.

---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 AM ----------

Today I sanded and painted the recoil housing, governor/throttle linkage, main engine shroud piece(only where it needed it because it was gong to be the same color), drilled the right side bottom shock mount, and fixed the recoil a little. I also started reassembling the engine shroud a bit and attempted to remove a broken screw but ended up breaking the easy-out in it.

Sorry no pictures because the second color is going to be revealed when it’s completed.
 

BeaterofAincrad

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I regret not checking before, but I went and took the other shock off the junk atv and found that the shock blew. I’m not sure if welding it will fix it enough to use it or if I should just buy a new one. If I can fix it, I’d like to save some money.
 

pRoFiT

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Wow i think that shock is done for.
You could try to weld it up...maybe...but the fluids have leaked out :( and you would not have any shock. only (possibly) a linear sliding rod.

Time to start dumpster diving for an old bike shock or scrap yard for motorcycle parts. I once found a wrecked motorcycle front end, during trash day, with shocks and brakes. Ended up using the brakes on my go kart.

Amazing what people will throw away. One mans junk.

I say replace it. save your time and effort trying to fix this one. save up some money. Sell something you dont need anymore. buy some good shocks, used shocks?
 

BeaterofAincrad

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Over the past few days I got the rest of the shock mounts welded on(forgot to take a picture), the engine shroud painted and reassembled, the brake mount hub fit to the brake disk, pedals sanded and painted, and I started to work on fitting the sprocket guard but it was pouring like all day yesterday and I didn’t have a work bench.

I ended up having to file/grind the OD on the hub that sits in the ID of the brake disk like a 1/8” so that it would fit. I also wound up drilling new holes because I was afraid that if I drilled the other ones bigger it would take off too much material and allow play. The BHC on the disc was a little small so I also had to file a flat into the other side(the side with the fillets on it) of the smaller OD on the hub so that I could fit a nut in there.

I don’t expect the paint on the engine shroud to last too long due to heat and oils and as for the paint on the pedals, it’ll get worn over time but oh well.

During disassembly a bolt broke in the engine block(one of the two that bolts the gas tank mount on) and the easy-out did too. I know I could have welded a nut to it and then tried taking it out but I wanted to accomplish something yesterday so I just left it.

 

BeaterofAincrad

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Today I was busy in the morning(when it was sunny) and shortly after I went to work on the kart in the afternoon it started thundering.

I managed to get the sprocket and brake guards fitted and half welded before it started thundering. Thankfully the rain held up long enough for me to get everything cleaned up. I put a cut halfway through at my bends on the new guard to make them more precise and easier to bend, I intend to fill them in with weld once I’m done welding them to the frame.

While it was raining, I prepped the pillow block bearing “set bolts”, cut and fit caps for the square tube on the shock braces, figured out how exactly the brake caliper was going to be mounted, and began to prep the brake caliper mount.



Tomorrow is my fathers birthday so I probably won’t work on the kart too much.
 

Joe-405

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How long are your shocks ? I have a few extra sets laying around you can have.
 

BeaterofAincrad

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Thanks so much for offering, I have a 9 3/4” and a 10 3/4”. I intended on using the two front shocks so I didn’t have to buy another rear, but either will work.
 

Joe-405

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I’m pretty sure my oem yerfdog ones are the same front and back. When I get off I’ll measure them.
 

BeaterofAincrad

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Today my father didn’t really do anything so he let me work on the kart.

I got the pillow block “set screws” welded on and cleaned up, I just have to cut a nut(idk what they are called but it’s a rounded nut that goes on the end of the bolt) so I have a locking function for the second one.

I also got the brake caliper mounts cut, welded in place, and cleaned up, the sprocket/brake guards welds finished and cleaned up, the TAV mounted onto the engine, and everything in the rear roughly fitted minus the sprocket mount that I made(I intend to get the keyway put in it this week).

Actually, it slipped my mind, I haven’t even checked to see if the new wheels are big enough for the sprocket guard to clear. Better do that sooner than later…6



---------- Post added at 10:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

Also, I left the tabs from the previous bearing mount so that if need be, in the future I have an “anchor point” for mounts for a longer shock or something. And I should probably fill in that hole with weld so it doesn’t rust.
 

BeaterofAincrad

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Today, I filled in a few holes with weld on the rear portion, cut the caliper mount bolts shorter and bought some lock washers for them, cut the lock nut for the pillow block, and disassembled it all. So now all the fabrication is done on the rear portion.

I also welded the caps on the shock brackets and put a fillet on them, the metal seat bands, re-welded the foot pan, bought DOT4 brake fluid and setup/tested the hydraulic assembly, it all works.

For $50 the junk atv has already paid off. I haven’t even used it all yet but the stuff a have used probably adds up to about $90-100



EDIT:

I also measured the sprocket guard and the wheels, it clears the ground by 1 1/2”.
 

Joe-405

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Moved to here. I accidentally posted on my thread. My bad. Lol

My fronts that I pulled off are in fact the same at 9 3/4” hole to hole. And I’m pretty sure the rears that are coming off are a inch longer so so.

Gotta figure out a way to get them to you tho.
 

BeaterofAincrad

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Moved to here. I accidentally posted on my thread. My bad. Lol

My fronts that I pulled off are in fact the same at 9 3/4” hole to hole. And I’m pretty sure the rears that are coming off are a inch longer so so.

Gotta figure out a way to get them to you tho.



Thanks so much, I really appreciate it. I’ll pm you, by any chance do you like maple syrup?
 

Joe-405

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One set is 9-3/4” and the rears are 11-3/4” I don’t need any of them as I got shorter for the front and longer in the rear now.
 

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BeaterofAincrad

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Alright, I guess I’ll take both. My mom said something about them possibly fitting in a large flat rate envelope, to cut down on shipping a little.
 

BeaterofAincrad

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I got the brake rod straightened out, it had two more bends at the sharpie marks. I think it came off a ride on mower, I’m not sure. I only had time to make and weld one tab and then it started thundering.

I also had the leftover chassis and jack shaft from an Arctic Cat Jag 440 given to me a while back to use on a different project that never really got finished, extremely close, but unfinished. I took the tool box off that and want to put it on this project once I’m almost done. I’m thinking on the rear portion to the right of the engine, between the right pillow block and the brake disc.

 
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