2016 - Arachnid

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firemanjim

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You HAVE to have back brakes too. If not, you back end will swing around and be the leading end, if you have to stomp on the brake.

Use the drums up front. Since you're adding more braking power than the plans called for, you could safely assume you could down grade the rear brakes safely (within reason) User a big 5.5" drum brake like I have. Mine is from the old days of karting, but they still make them. It's by bendix......
If the front brakes are cable activated, that's to your favorites as well.... It's easier to set up and adjust front/back brake bias.
 

Denny

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Please do me a favor and drill those bolts in your rear pivot points for cotterpins to retain the nuts so they don't work loose. Looks good so far. I work with some people that are from Transylvania and their last name it Tepes.

Denny
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alexV

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Looks like the competition is delayed until Monday. Good thing I didn't plan work this weekend ;)

OK, will order a matching brake hub for my axle, then source a used hydraulic brake system later (as well as figure out how to link 2 brake systems to 1 pedal)

Denny, instead of cotter pins I'm thinking self locking nuts, the ones which have a nylon inner ring.
 

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alexV

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A reminder about safety: this was in my local news this morning.

Homemade buggy cost the life of the passenger, whom was not wearing a seat belt nor helmet
 

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alexV

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Awesome Arachnid

Hi,

Here's my project log, ready for the DIY Go Karts competition. I'm building the Spidercarts Arachnid: 1-seat, full suspension go kart.

As a first time builder, all help and comments are appreciated: project name, paint color, tech advice. :thumbsup:
 

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alexV

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Thanks landuse for merging the threads.

Day 6:
Purchased used suspension component: front are ok, rear need to be reconditioned. That's a home-made device to remove springs, Thanks Bogdan for help:idea2:. I restored them to original paint. The cat was suspicious at first...

The shocks have no oil in them. I need to refill, and I cannot unscrew the aluminium part from the golden component...
 

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alexV

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Day 6 cont'd.
Installing automatic clutch to the engine. Pic two is the key on the shaft, trimmed down from 7x7 mm to 7x5 mm. Pic 3 is the outer clutch case. Next is the 1:2 reduction unit, the left wheel is part of the centrifugal clutch.

Good guy Honda has the engine and clutch maintenance manual available online.
 

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alexV

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Are you sure that they unscrew there?

No, I am not :)

The extra chambers you see are not connected to anything, they just look fancy. So if this end doesn't unscrew... maybe i'll drill the shocks (as seen on youtube)
 
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alexV

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Made engine mounting plates.

When mocking the engine, observed the gas tank hits the frame. Now we're debating a solution. I would remove the gas tank and refit elsewhere, dad says to redo the frame (he used some unorthodox words towards the designer :lolgoku:

That's it for today
 

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alexV

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Then the fuel tank will move independently from the engine, because the suspension is between. Isn't this an issue for the fuel line or something?
 

alexV

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chancer, that tank looks great :) but not within budget. I'll remove the gas tank for now, and maybe look for something similar in the flea market.
 

chancer

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Cool. flea markets rock.
Funny thing. Guess what? I am having the exact same problem today!:mad2:
 
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