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I may have been unclear when I said two sprockets are needed, I was counting one of them as the one on the clutch (or the one included with the TAV kit). Besides the one on the clutch or CVT, you only need ONE rear sprocket with ONE hub/carrier. The complete kit TAV you linked for around $63...

No. Fuel screw is for idle / pilot circuit only. If the screw is almost backed all the way out to get the engine to run best with a certain PILOT jet, then that PILOT jet is too small. The fuel screw should have little to no impact at 1/2 throttle and above.

I’d say some flames from the exhaust doesn’t necessarily mean too rich with straight pipe. And when letting off the throttle with a straight pipe, you might hear some pops from after-fire in exhaust. (Is after fire the right word? Not backfire in the intake. After-fire in the exhaust? Sorry...

This video shows a good way to do the testing that WTR mentioned. This guy cuts up the plug to get a better reading after the test, but I posted it just to show how to conduct the test. I still think it’s best to get the pilot jet dialed in first before the main jet. A micro drill bit set with...

Lastly, the pilot jet should have a couple of O-Rings… you might want to inspect those to see if missing or damaged. I assume you already learned how to remove the pilot jet?

How is the primary clutch / driver unit? This thread is titled ”Driven Unit” something or other. But wondering about the DriveR unit. When the engine dies, can you push the kart freely or does the driveR unit seem stuck open?

Backing out the fuel screw all the way implies that’s a larger pilot jet would be better. You want the fuel screw in the middle. If the fuel screw is most of the way in, a smaller pilot jet would be needed. If the screw is most of the way out, a larger pilot jet is needed. ideally a...

I was implying that I will need two pounds of welds to hold the 200lb bike together. lol

202 lbs curb weight

Not familiar with this kit… But similar style kit for a 420cc cost 3x as much

$55 for 30 series kit.

Here are some scribbles and a photo if confused on how a CVT set up goes. The CVT option only works with the smaller engine because of the budget… I think. 30 series work on 3/4” shaft engines and complete set with that nice backplate are cheap. 40 series are needed with 1”shaft engines and...

In my mind. The water in the spray absorbs the heat as it evaporates reducing the amount of heat going into the work… No idea if this is significant or not, but worth testing IMO.

Ya but it also works to keep spatter bb’s from sticking to the work. I did micro GAB and watched some of this video of a dude testing 47 anti spatter products.

Wonder if I should try without this anti-spatter? I’ve been welding through it. Mostly water I think. Maybe it drips into the weld? The guy who I know that put the steering head on said he was only familiar with ceramic sprays with cannot be welded through. He started covering the area he...

Ya what he said. 2 sprockets minimum. 10T in front (on clutch/cvt) 60T in the back (axle). Or 12T on front and 72T on back. If the rear tires (assuming rear wheel drive) are 16” or over… a CVT is best. If rear tires are under 16” a centrifugal clutch might work depending on how heavy this...

Tried to photo the backside. Theres a few tacks “inside” the tube, on the back side of a couple of the beads.

I think I have some photos before grinding. Here was one of them.

Voltage setting is only “MIN” or “MAX” Max is like 90 AMPs I guess? Wire speed setting is 1 - 10 Been using Lincoln Innershield 0.030” NR-211 Multiple Pass. No hammer testing yet. Maybe for a tack weld, turn wire speed down from 8 to 5 and hold it there for like 5 seconds instead of 3 or...