Yerf Dog w/ Hemi Predator 212

joshw0000

Well-known member
Messages
309
Reaction score
355
Back in post # 1 you ask for any pro tips. I don't think this is pro, but your latest pictures show a problem I had with both of mine. Severely bent pedals, especially the brake pedal. Yours almost looks like it is bent 45 degrees. It's from people stabbing that band brake. They actually work pretty good if you push hard enough. After straightening mine out I had a small triangle gusset welded between the flat of the pedal and the upright piece. Very ridged now.
No flex. Was worried about one of the Grandkids foot slipping off, and from the looks of yours you should be also.
After driving it, I can say this mod is definitely in my near future. The brake feels squishy even though there's plenty of pad and it's because it's bent in. Thanks!
 

BrownStainRacing

Well-known member
Messages
1,367
Reaction score
1,486
That's better. Still sounds a lil high. May jus be volume of vid. Is that driver wobbling??? Looks like it is, then I don't see it.
 

panchothedog

Well-known member
Messages
2,954
Reaction score
4,002
With no weight on the rear tires they will Always spin, even with the clutch working properly. Put the kart on the ground with someone holding the brake
on, or up against a wall if you are by yourself, and check. I have done what you described and almost tore off the bottom of my shoe. That is not a good indicator if the clutch is dragging. You have to have the weight on it. As for putting oil on any part of the torque converter NO NO and NO. You can use dry
lubricant or graphite of you want, but brake parts cleaner works fine. It is the
ONLY thing I use, and I keep 5 of them serviced on a regular basis.
 

panchothedog

Well-known member
Messages
2,954
Reaction score
4,002
In the post where you couldn't get the other driver back on the crankshaft, pull
everything off and take some medium to fine grit sandpaper to the crankshaft
as well as the inside of the clutch. Concentrate on the corners of the milled slot
of the crankshaft. I've had that happen with Brand new parts. Remember ALL
parts involved are machined in China. Quality control can be suspect at times.
 

joshw0000

Well-known member
Messages
309
Reaction score
355
In the post where you couldn't get the other driver back on the crankshaft, pull
everything off and take some medium to fine grit sandpaper to the crankshaft
as well as the inside of the clutch. Concentrate on the corners of the milled slot
of the crankshaft. I've had that happen with Brand new parts. Remember ALL
parts involved are machined in China. Quality control can be suspect at times.
Great tip, thanks! I did some light sanding on the back driven plate key from my other cart (it now belongs to this cart and the new driver will be for the other one) and cleaned the groove on the shaft with some brake cleaner on a rag. It was still very snug but I was able to slide it on by hand.

@BrownStainRacing the seat belts won't be in until tomorrow so unfortunately I haven't let the kids on yet. I did put it through some abuse test today and it performed beautifully. Wide open through the yard, not being gentle on bumps, as the kids won't. And several hard launches. It left a good skid in the driveway before the tires warmed up.....however, I didn't actually press record, so here's the next best thing. It's pretty much all traction but you get the point.


34 MPH and 100 smiles per hour. I'll throttle it down a bit before I set the kids loose. I got it to 20 MPH in the yard. Those big back tires grip. The front ones, not so much at 20 MPH, trying to turn in a sharp curve. The front shocks are in the closest holes, forcing the front tires to cam in for the most traction. I don't think it's an issue, I just need to remind the kids that steering is softer than they're used to.

So this week the 4 point harnesses get installed, along with the roll bars. I didn't mind the back not having a pad but I still may replace the seat if it bothers the kids. This cart is almost finished!
 

BrownStainRacing

Well-known member
Messages
1,367
Reaction score
1,486
Great tip, thanks! I did some light sanding on the back driven plate key from my other cart (it now belongs to this cart and the new driver will be for the other one) and cleaned the groove on the shaft with some brake cleaner on a rag. It was still very snug but I was able to slide it on by hand.

@BrownStainRacing the seat belts won't be in until tomorrow so unfortunately I haven't let the kids on yet. I did put it through some abuse test today and it performed beautifully. Wide open through the yard, not being gentle on bumps, as the kids won't. And several hard launches. It left a good skid in the driveway before the tires warmed up.....however, I didn't actually press record, so here's the next best thing. It's pretty much all traction but you get the point.


34 MPH and 100 smiles per hour. I'll throttle it down a bit before I set the kids loose. I got it to 20 MPH in the yard. Those big back tires grip. The front ones, not so much at 20 MPH, trying to turn in a sharp curve. The front shocks are in the closest holes, forcing the front tires to cam in for the most traction. I don't think it's an issue, I just need to remind the kids that steering is softer than they're used to.

So this week the 4 point harnesses get installed, along with the roll bars. I didn't mind the back not having a pad but I still may replace the seat if it bothers the kids. This cart is almost finished!
Looks like it's got some good grip-tion, 😆 🤣 😂 😹. Those soft compound tires graps ahold of that asphalt, pretty good.

I agree, you might have to turn it down a hair or 2 for them kids, they gonna love it.

Very nice progress 👏 👌
Keep it up!!!!
Good job!!!
 

joshw0000

Well-known member
Messages
309
Reaction score
355
I think I'm going to replace the spark plug since I don't know how old the motor is or how well it was serviced. I only know that it was neglected for some time.

Any brand / model do you guys recommend or an eBay cheapo will be fine?
 
Last edited:

BaconBitRacing

Well-known member
Messages
2,304
Reaction score
1,489
Location
N.C.
I think I'm going to replace the spark plug since I don't know how old the motor is or how well it was serviced. I only know that it was neglected for some time.

Any brand / model that you guys recommend or an eBay cheapo will be fine?
From what I’ve heard what you need is a spark plug. Don‘t pay for platinum, uranium, titanium, vibratium, etc.
 

BrownStainRacing

Well-known member
Messages
1,367
Reaction score
1,486
NGK
BP6ES

you might find BPR6ES, a little easier
It's the same plug, jus has resistor.
Your stock engines will work fine with either. And they last forever. Maybe once a year, take em out and gap em.
I think I'm going to replace the spark plug since I don't know how old the motor is or how well it was serviced. I only know that it was neglected for some time.

Any brand / model do you guys recommend or an eBay cheapo will be fine?
 

joshw0000

Well-known member
Messages
309
Reaction score
355
NGK
BP6ES

you might find BPR6ES, a little easier
It's the same plug, jus has resistor.
Your stock engines will work fine with either. And they last forever. Maybe once a year, take em out and gap em.

Thank you sir. I had done a little research and came to the same conclusion. NGK BPR6ES is what I ended up ordering. I'll double check the gap to be between 0.027" - 0.031" and pop it in.

I almost ordered a performance plug but people were having issues with stock engines running hot since it wasn't getting enough fuel.
 

BrownStainRacing

Well-known member
Messages
1,367
Reaction score
1,486
Yeap, you exactly right.

A RACE plug dont make a race engine.

You really need the RACE engine.....1st, 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆
Thank you sir. I had done a little research and came to the same conclusion. NGK BPR6ES is what I ended up ordering. I'll double check the gap to be between 0.027" - 0.031" and pop it in.

I almost ordered a performance plug but people were having issues with stock engines running hot since it wasn't getting enough fuel.
 
Top