chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
This is why my wife paint my karts!!!!
JK
Looks good! What is pollen?
JK
Looks good! What is pollen?
Yerf Dog 3200 renovation
- Thread starter Iron John
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Hellion
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It's plant sperm. I thought you knew?
Thanks.
Well, it's done. Today was a thrash. I took a bunch of photos and will post them as soon as I come up for air.
not_a_bot
Tinkerer
Dayum, I'm digging the level of detail you've put into this, small stuff like the red bit on those shocks make the difference. Congrats, a video would be great at this point!
Thanks - there was too much black and it needed just a little something to make it pop. It also ties into the stripe.
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
That looks good. I wanna see the rest of the pics!
Denny
Canned Monster
Heck looks too good to sell now. Might as well put new tires on it and keep it now. 
Denny
Denny
Heck looks too good to sell now. Might as well put new tires on it and keep it now.
Denny
LOL, the thought did cross my mind but it has to go. I am happy to pass on a completely sorted kart since most owners don't want or need a science project.
Brake Linkage
This is something that could have been left as the factory built it, but it was bugging me that it was not done properly. It's bad enough when the factory slim shadies something; with a go-kart there is a chance some kid will see it down the line and think that this is the right way to do things.
In this case I am referring to the way the factory rigged the brake linkage. The brake cable clevis is attached to the trunnion at the end of the actuating rod with a bolt. I spotted these problems when I took the kart apart, as all of these are sandwiched between the seat and the floor pan so it is not like you can see it.
As you can see in the photo, the clevis is riding directly on the threaded shank of the bolt and that the clevis is not located side-to-side in the trunnion. Both of these are fails.
What you cannot see is that the amount of brake actuating rod travel is gated by the return spring being in full bind. That's right, the amount of braking is determined by when that spring is fully compressed, not by the lining or brake actuating band. This is a major fail.
Why do things like this leave the factory? We usually say 'cost' because it is cheaper to do it this way. That is only part of the cost equation. Frankly, the factories don't have the resources to do the integration testing or production line quality control. Maybe they switched suppliers, and this spring is different than the original design. Maybe the bracket was welded in place a half inch off. Maybe this was a rush design. Who knows.
The point is that you cannot take anything for granted on a go-kart because they do not have the breadth and depth of engineering behind them as does, say, a Corvette or Mustang.
On to the fix. First the bolt that attaches the trunnion and the clevis.
The clevis needs to ride on a solid surface, not the thread of a bolt. The bolt size used is 5/16 x 14. I used a longer one because that way I could use the unthreaded portion of the bolt shank. Here you see what I mean:
I spun a nut all the way onto the bolt, cut off the excess, and then unscrewed the nut. Doing it this way lets you use the nut to remove the burr that forms when cutting a thread. That burr can make it hard to start the nut. I switched to a Nylock nut for final assembly. BTW, you want at least two threads showing any time you use a Nylock nut. That is important as otherwise the nylon lock does not have enough thread to grab.
I used washers on both sides of the clevis to center it in the trunnion.
The brake spring issue was addressed with two adjustments. First, the brake cable was moved towards the back of the cart. This is at the right of the above photos. I was able to move it out about 3/8", which was plenty. Then, I adjusted the brake actuating rod, first at the trunnion ( so that the end of the threaded portion of the rod would not hit the clevis), and then at the front of the kart by the brake pedal.
Now, the maximum amount of brake application is governed by the brake assembly itself - by how tightly the brake band can grip the brake drum - instead of by when the spring binds.
Maybe ten minutes of work, and now the brakes are set up right. There is absolutely no play in the brake linkage and that is quite a difference over stock.
This is something that could have been left as the factory built it, but it was bugging me that it was not done properly. It's bad enough when the factory slim shadies something; with a go-kart there is a chance some kid will see it down the line and think that this is the right way to do things.
In this case I am referring to the way the factory rigged the brake linkage. The brake cable clevis is attached to the trunnion at the end of the actuating rod with a bolt. I spotted these problems when I took the kart apart, as all of these are sandwiched between the seat and the floor pan so it is not like you can see it.
As you can see in the photo, the clevis is riding directly on the threaded shank of the bolt and that the clevis is not located side-to-side in the trunnion. Both of these are fails.
What you cannot see is that the amount of brake actuating rod travel is gated by the return spring being in full bind. That's right, the amount of braking is determined by when that spring is fully compressed, not by the lining or brake actuating band. This is a major fail.
Why do things like this leave the factory? We usually say 'cost' because it is cheaper to do it this way. That is only part of the cost equation. Frankly, the factories don't have the resources to do the integration testing or production line quality control. Maybe they switched suppliers, and this spring is different than the original design. Maybe the bracket was welded in place a half inch off. Maybe this was a rush design. Who knows.
The point is that you cannot take anything for granted on a go-kart because they do not have the breadth and depth of engineering behind them as does, say, a Corvette or Mustang.
On to the fix. First the bolt that attaches the trunnion and the clevis.
The clevis needs to ride on a solid surface, not the thread of a bolt. The bolt size used is 5/16 x 14. I used a longer one because that way I could use the unthreaded portion of the bolt shank. Here you see what I mean:
I spun a nut all the way onto the bolt, cut off the excess, and then unscrewed the nut. Doing it this way lets you use the nut to remove the burr that forms when cutting a thread. That burr can make it hard to start the nut. I switched to a Nylock nut for final assembly. BTW, you want at least two threads showing any time you use a Nylock nut. That is important as otherwise the nylon lock does not have enough thread to grab.
I used washers on both sides of the clevis to center it in the trunnion.
The brake spring issue was addressed with two adjustments. First, the brake cable was moved towards the back of the cart. This is at the right of the above photos. I was able to move it out about 3/8", which was plenty. Then, I adjusted the brake actuating rod, first at the trunnion ( so that the end of the threaded portion of the rod would not hit the clevis), and then at the front of the kart by the brake pedal.
Now, the maximum amount of brake application is governed by the brake assembly itself - by how tightly the brake band can grip the brake drum - instead of by when the spring binds.
Maybe ten minutes of work, and now the brakes are set up right. There is absolutely no play in the brake linkage and that is quite a difference over stock.
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
They were just kiving up to their name. "Yerf Dog" Always sounded to me like something your Dog left on living room rug overnight! Not poo!
Gas Tank
Removed, cleaned and painted the gas tank. There was nothing wrong with it, the paint just did not look fresh.
The inside was spotless.
The fuel outlet is a threaded nylon fitting that incorporates a fine filter screen inside. Takes a 12mm wrench. If you ever lose fuel flow on a Predator engine, pull the tank and check the outlet. They should be cleanable by spraying with brake cleaner and gentle backwards air pressure. My filter was perfectly clean
I tried something different to prep the exterior of the tank for painting since I had also removed the stickers and there was glue residue left behind. I wet sanded it with a Scotchbrite pad moistened with mineral spirits. Figured that would scuff the surface and clean oils and grease at the same time. Seems to have worked.
I painted the bottom first. When that paint dried, I flipped her over and did the top.
The fuel cap has a ball chain to prevent the cap from being lost. The chain is fastened to the tank with a coil spring that fits into a recess in the neck. Unwind the spring to get it out.
The vent fitting is easily pried out as it is just a rubber plug.
Removed, cleaned and painted the gas tank. There was nothing wrong with it, the paint just did not look fresh.
The inside was spotless.
The fuel outlet is a threaded nylon fitting that incorporates a fine filter screen inside. Takes a 12mm wrench. If you ever lose fuel flow on a Predator engine, pull the tank and check the outlet. They should be cleanable by spraying with brake cleaner and gentle backwards air pressure. My filter was perfectly clean
I tried something different to prep the exterior of the tank for painting since I had also removed the stickers and there was glue residue left behind. I wet sanded it with a Scotchbrite pad moistened with mineral spirits. Figured that would scuff the surface and clean oils and grease at the same time. Seems to have worked.
I painted the bottom first. When that paint dried, I flipped her over and did the top.
The fuel cap has a ball chain to prevent the cap from being lost. The chain is fastened to the tank with a coil spring that fits into a recess in the neck. Unwind the spring to get it out.
The vent fitting is easily pried out as it is just a rubber plug.
Hellion
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I admire the attention to detail. Most people just stop at "good enough" despite the small details looking quite a bit less than pristine. Kudos on improving the brake actuator rod/clevis setup. Things that are squared away and precise is the way to go.
I'm actually quite surprised the Predator engines have steel gas tanks when most other manufacturers have gone to plastic. Not sure if that's a benefit or not.
I'm just thinking the rear end needs something to give the engine some presence like a flared-end header pointing up at 45°.
I'm actually quite surprised the Predator engines have steel gas tanks when most other manufacturers have gone to plastic. Not sure if that's a benefit or not.
I'm just thinking the rear end needs something to give the engine some presence like a flared-end header pointing up at 45°.
That would be cool! I actually have a chrome motorcycle exhaust that would be perfect. If I were keeping it, that would go on. But since I am going to sell this one, it is better with the stock exhaust. That way no jetting or carb issues (need to richen it up with a better-flowing exhaust, otherwise too lean and can cause a problem inside the motor), and less likely a kid would get burned on the hot pipe for example when using the recoil starter.
I thought about a red graphic on the tank but decided that would be too much. Less is more.
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Plus if you sell it. A parent is more likely to buy it (I think) Bone stock and unaltered. They just feel it is more reliable that way.
Depends on the buyer though. + - ??
Depends on the buyer though. + - ??
I would prefer to sell to a parent. They have money.
When I was a kid I had a go cart that was undependable. An entire summer could go by with hardly any use because we could not get it to start, or to stay running without something breaking.
That was the most disappointing and miserable feeling, because all school year I would be dreaming of running the go cart all summer.
I'd rather sell a dialed in and dependable cart that starts and runs and does not break than some frantic cart machine diva. No one will miss the extra few mph that a tricked-out cart would have.
IMHO this is the best scenario. A stock cart that is dialed in for dependability and durability and safe, predictable performance. But obviously, I am biased! So take my words with a grain of salt!!
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
I agree.
not_a_bot
Tinkerer
Great guy. Share this thread, or some excerpts and it will sell ezpz.
Sent from my G760-L01 using Tapatalk
Sent from my G760-L01 using Tapatalk
For those of you who missed it, these were the 'before' shots. These shots are from 4 years ago; the cart was actually in worse cosmetic shape than it appears here.
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