Well, depends on the diff..
The Northern tool diff for example is perfectly okay with the brake disc mounted to it, just like the sprocket.
So both wheels will slow down, not just one
I think you can see that kind of setup in the dune cat thread.. AFAIK there's a picture of a diff with sprocket and brake disc.
'sid
'Sid, sometimes I hate you..... lol (JUST KIDDING!) You are right,AGAIN. That diff does only need the one brake.....![]()
Not if you have the brake caliper bolted to the diff
Well do you think its worth doing guys. My dad says there's going to be stuff like cutting parts of frame and welding or is it as easy as just changing the axle out or should I just stick with live axle. Some people said to add weight in front to help the steering problem.
If you watch the video I did it on there but I will get pics to and post them on here after school today
You mean you are posting during school time......![]()
I wanted to add to the alternator questions. From researching the clone engines for garden tractor use I found that most of them only have about a 3 amp alternator. This is enough to charge the battery, but not really to keep up with accessories. I wanted to use one on a tractor with an electric PTO clutch, but it would drain the battery before getting the yard cut.
For your application is should work fine. LED lights 3 amps times 12 volts equals 36 watts available. Read the specs on the lights you want. The winch is not generally used long enough to drain the battery down.
Ok thanks. The winch would also add weight to. But once I get a bigger engine can I get bigger tires for it with a more aggressive tread or will it mess up gearing or something?
In the case you stated above,in my opinion, is that you either had a short in your electrical system continuously drawing power from your battery ,OR your alt was on its way to taking a dirt nap...... OR you had a dead or weak cell in the battery not allowing it to ever get/hold a full charge.
Our lawn tractor at the station has an electric pto clutch and it runs all day,whether cutting down 2foot weeds, or dragging hauling equipment. With the knuckle heads up there popping wheelies and whatnot, its abused hard ,but we never have a dead battery. The battery should hold enough power to handle all the accessories the tractor had and still have excess power.
We have discussed this already....... YES changing tire size changes gear ratio. I have not been able to watch the vid yet,but you do not need a diff to make your kart turn. It in the steering ...... You do not need a diff...... You dont want a diff...... And its gonna be a lot/simple fab work to set it up. Your problem is in the front of your kart. Why do you insist on looking for the answer in the rear? That would be like me checking out your foot cause your neck hurts.
Ill be back at the station later and Ill watch the video. Its better to have 3 seperate pics though so we can sit and examine what all you got going on without being in a rush or trying to pause the video.... Im telling ya, once we get the front straightened out ,the only thing you'll be thinking about the back end is more power...... more power!![]()
Ok thanks. The winch would also add weight to. But once I get a bigger engine can I get bigger tires for it with a more aggressive tread or will it mess up gearing or something?
Adding weight to the front will help the tires bite, but they are telling you to correct the poor engineering done by yerf dog to make it steer better.
Adding larger tires will make the gearing higher and the cart have more top speed.
Added more aggressive tires is going to make the steering worse unless you take care of the problems.
I would rather have less aggressive tires and be able to spin them. Now it depends on what terrain you want to ride on also.
Sand rails have tall narrow tires with a center rib to bite into the sand for turning.