Starting the Frame
- Thread starter EastCoast
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Doc Sprocket
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Not too shabby- I love recycling stuff!!!
I see some porosity in your welds. Make sure the steel is relatively clean and rust-free before welding. Take paint off, too.
I see some porosity in your welds. Make sure the steel is relatively clean and rust-free before welding. Take paint off, too.
bighead
New member
Look that mower steering wheel over real good. They can snap off.
EastCoast
New member
Ok thanks guys
EastCoast
New member
If I get the 6.5 hp motor from princess auto they have two 3/4" Centrifugal Chain Clutches 10 or 12 teeth
#1 Bi-directional operation
Up to 13 HP
Sintered metal shoes for the ultimate in proper weight, wear ability, and heat dissipating qualities
10 teeth
#40/41 chain pitch
4" outside dia.
3/4" bore, #40/41 chain pitch
OR
#2 Bi-directional operation
Up to 13 HP
Sintered metal shoes for the ultimate in proper weight, wear ability, and heat dissipating qualities
12 teeth
#35 chain pitch
4" outside dia.
3/4" bore, #35 chain pitch
What one do I want? They are both $59.99.
#1 Bi-directional operation
Up to 13 HP
Sintered metal shoes for the ultimate in proper weight, wear ability, and heat dissipating qualities
10 teeth
#40/41 chain pitch
4" outside dia.
3/4" bore, #40/41 chain pitch
OR
#2 Bi-directional operation
Up to 13 HP
Sintered metal shoes for the ultimate in proper weight, wear ability, and heat dissipating qualities
12 teeth
#35 chain pitch
4" outside dia.
3/4" bore, #35 chain pitch
What one do I want? They are both $59.99.
EastCoast
New member
OH NO princess auto is sold out of the motors. Sold out with in hrs on the first day.
Doc Sprocket
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No doubt! I was into mine Tuesday and was wishing I could score one at that price.
Regarding the clutch, you can use either one. Obviously, #40 chain is stronger. Odds are good the #35 would be fine for you, and has the benefit of allowing a physically smaller rear sprocket. Your call. I'm usually guilty of overengineering things, so I'd go with the #40.
Regarding the clutch, you can use either one. Obviously, #40 chain is stronger. Odds are good the #35 would be fine for you, and has the benefit of allowing a physically smaller rear sprocket. Your call. I'm usually guilty of overengineering things, so I'd go with the #40.
In fact, TS, you will need about the same sized sprockets to get the same gear ratio regardless of chain size. 35 needs more teeth around the clutch which means more on the axle for the same ratio. The only benefit of 35 is that there are many more split sprockets available which make changes much easier.
Doc Sprocket
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You're right- you got me on that one.... I was thinking about that last night trying to do the math in my head, but I pumped in a lot of overtime this week and I was ruined... OOPS!
Umm- okay, it's lighter, and at Princess anyway, the components are cheaper... (he says, sinking into his chair a wee bit
)
Umm- okay, it's lighter, and at Princess anyway, the components are cheaper... (he says, sinking into his chair a wee bit
)EastCoast
New member
Ok Thanks
EastCoast
New member
Made a new steering shaft and bushings and pitman arm today. Don't got pics yet but I'll put them up soon.
EastCoast
New member
I was going to use mower wheels and tires. Should I use the smaller front wheels on the front and back or could I beable to use the lager rear wheels on the rear and the smaller front ones on the front?
I am picking up a 6.5hp Honda clone tomorrow.
Oh I also have a question about the rear axle I want to make a live axle (both rear wheels turn under power) but how hard will it be to turn?
I am picking up a 6.5hp Honda clone tomorrow.
Oh I also have a question about the rear axle I want to make a live axle (both rear wheels turn under power) but how hard will it be to turn?
EastCoast
New member
Ok got a new motor sold the other two I had for $50 each so I made $100 and I got them for free I put the $100 towards the new motor and only payed $140 for the new motor.
EastCoast
New member
Nope no starter, just pull start.
EastCoast
New member
I am still trying to find seats? Has anyone made their own seats?
Doc Sprocket
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That just means it uses CDI, or some other technology instead of breaker points.
Sure you can make your own seats! Cut shapes of plywood, pad with foam, upholster with leather or vinyl. Or, you can take one of those contoured plastic stacking chairs with the metal legs, and cut it off the framing. You can even bolster the sides with sheetmetal.
You could use the seat and back support off a weightlifting bench just as it is, if you like. Lotsa options!
EastCoast
New member
I have been trying to find 2 of the plastic chairs like we had in school where the back and seat are all one part, but no luck yet.
Doc Sprocket
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They do seem to be less available now than they used to be, I was looking too. You could try contacting all the local schools and asking what they've got available. The legs were pretty notorious for bending and breaking under the abuse of a teenager, and the schools generally wouldn't bother repairing them.
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