Starting the Frame

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EastCoast

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Name SKU Quantity Price Subtotal

Disc Caliper 4760161 $69.99 $69.99

Brake Disc 4760179 $29.99 $29.99

Caliper Mounting Bracket 4760002 $14.99 $14.99

1" W-Series Weld-On Hub 3845211 $5.49 $5.49

1" Shaft Collar 3871365 (6) $2.49 $14.94

10 ft Remote Control Cable 3890492 $26.99 $26.99

Pivot Pin 3890502 $4.19 $4.19
 
Doc Sprocket

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If you are capable of fabrication, you can save yourself some money by using the brakes from a motorcycle or something. I've never been happy with the fact that they want $70 for a laousy mechanical caliper. He//, put it all together and you've got $115+ tax for the whole brake set up- that's just nuts.
 
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You could, but frankly I don't have a lot of faith in the mechanical calipers. A hydro system will out-stop those by a week and a half... You should at least examine the idea of using motorcycle parts. In the example below (my kids' kart) I used the master cylinder, hose, and caliper from a Yamaha Virago. The disc is a sprocket. I didn't want to extend the hydraulic hose so I mounted the master on the framerail and used a cable to actualte it with a pedal. I used a bit of 5/16" steel plate to make the actuator that bolts to the master in place of the original brake handle.
 

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You certainly should. If you have the ability you can save a ton of money, and stop a lot better!!!

The donor bike owes me nothing. I bought it a few years ago for another project. IIRC, I paid either $250 OR $300CDN for it- the brakes have ended up on the kids kart, the engine is going on my kart as soon as I have enough free time to do it.

The book helped reinforce the idea that I could use motorcycle brakes but I did not like the examples they used- attaching a cable to the original brake handle. I can see why they did it, I just didn't like it. To make my own idea work, I took the handle off and traced it into a piece of parper and modified the shape to have an attachment point for the cable. I transferred the design onto steel plate and cut. You will notice in the pic that there's a turnbuckle attached to it- this sets the cable tension. Too much free play and the braking effect is reduced. Too little free play and the brakes drag.

The turnbuckle is a Princess Auto part. Not seen in the photo (added after pic was taken) is a return spring.

The best part is that from start to finish, I never had to bleed the brakes! The master, hose, and caliper came off the bike as one piece, and I managed to get everything rigged and fitted without separating them.
 
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Doc Sprocket

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Woohoo! We got us some TOYZ!!!

Regarding the sprocket sizes- what's your rear tire diameter? If you told us, I forgot.
I see that you got a 10T clutch, so that's 5.4:1. Might be a bit steep. You may need a larger one. To my knowledge, the largest #40 PA carries is 60T.
 
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I never really picked a tire size yet. That is the only clutch they had for 3/4" Centrifugal Chain Clutch for #40 chain pitch the other one they had was for #35 chain pitch in a 3/4" Centrifugal Chain Clutch. The only other Centrifugal Chain Clutches were 1" and 5/8".

Should I get a smaller or bigger rear drive sprocket ?

Not too sure what the 10T is for or means and never really looked at other ones to see if they had different # on them.

Should I take it back and find a T60 3/4" Centrifugal Chain Clutch for #40 chain pitch?
 
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He's saying you might need a bigger axle sprocket with your 10T (10 tooth) cent. clutch. You probably don't want anymore than a 10 tooth clutch because any more and your ratios probably just won't work.
 
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I am saying you may need a larger axle sprocket.
However- as you haven't selected rear tires yet, it's all academic. I do recall you saying this build was a two-seater, and I think it was for a couple of kids, right? If that's the case, you may not be done shopping yet. You may have to purchase the materials required to build a jackshaft to gear that puppy down quite a bit further. You'd need a length of 3/4" shaft, two pillow block bearings for it, and a couple more sprockets.
Tire size is important for figuring this out, though.
 
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ok I am not sure about gear ratios and stuff but I know I want alot of bottom end power so it will pull away with the two kids in it and not too fast. Yeah it for my 7 and 4 year old, I might have to take it for a drive or two too just to make sure everything works ok lol.

So I keep the clutch I have but might need a bigger rear axle sprocket?

How big of a tire is too big? What size is good for in fields and hills and on even ground? (off-road)

A bigger front sprocket and smaller rear sprocket will give you more bottom end and the smaller front and bigger rear the more top end(faster)?
 
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EastCoast said:
A bigger front sprocket and smaller rear sprocket will give you more bottom end and the smaller front and bigger rear the more top end(faster)?
Click to expand...

Nope- the other way 'round.

The more I examine this, the more convinced I am that you'll need a jackshaft on that thing to allow enough gear reduction. Don't worry too much about that until you've selected your rear tires- critical for the gearing equation.

For the rear tire size, you would be best to stay on the smaller size, say 13-15" overall diameter. Theoretically, bigger is better offroad, but a larger diameter will rob power and demand even deeper gearing.

Looking at your brakes (excellent score!) you've got access to lawn tractors, right? How about some turf tires, say 15x6.00-6 or in that range for the rears.
 
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toystory_4wd said:
Looking at your brakes (excellent score!) you've got access to lawn tractors, right? How about some turf tires, say 15x6.00-6 or in that range for the rears.
Click to expand...


Yeah they will do for now I will upgrade them later on.

I was thinking of using small lawn Tractor tires on the front and some bigger ones on the rear or at least wider on the rear.
 
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