Kartorbust
Well-known member
The wiring funny enough is intact. Nothing had been chewed on. May have to try a different jumper setup or try to locate my new switches and get them in then start from square one.
ST2-NG Pre-build "Think Tank"
- Thread starter Kartorbust
- Start date
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Oh yeah, love that tune, can dance to that, I'll give it a 93.
Denny
Canned Monster
Might have a failed ignition module.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
So until I can locate new ignition parts, I may have to shelve this project indefinitely or locate a suitable engine that actually runs with little to no work.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Instead of building spindles, as it would be a royal pain to setup for front brakes, looking at doing Banshee spindles with hydraulic brakes. With the spindles either being cast or machined, it would be a pain to cut and adjust for Ackerman. With it being predominantly off road, does this matter much overall?
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Been kind of getting a second wind on this stupid project. Just for the old S&G's I ended up finding kind of an Arctic Cat long block, it's a more modern 570cc fan cooled 2 stroke engine. Missing carburetors, tuner eplxpansion chamber pipe and a few other miscellaneous items. But that's $1800+.
So I might just bite the bullet and at least give it the old technical college try and get my current one to run. Need to get a new stator and ignition for it. Probably buy a new carburetor and carb rebuild kit so I can have if nothing else a spare carb incase something happens with the other one. Modifying the engine to be dual carb might just remain as a wish. But I need to see if I can get it to run first. But that requires me to figure out how to install the kill switch and new key switch in it. Then see if I can get spark. Might have to figure out how to pull the engine and work on it outside of the sled.
One thing I've been thinking on is, since this buggy will be driven on dirt and dust being a problem, wondering how I would go about making a snorkel for it? What kind of flex pipe do I need to get to get the air box up high, then what kind of rejetting would I need to do?
Also, since trying to locate the vintage cylinder head temp gauge that would install into the sled dash, is there any Go kart digital displays that have a Tachometer and a cylinder temp gauge with probe?
So I might just bite the bullet and at least give it the old technical college try and get my current one to run. Need to get a new stator and ignition for it. Probably buy a new carburetor and carb rebuild kit so I can have if nothing else a spare carb incase something happens with the other one. Modifying the engine to be dual carb might just remain as a wish. But I need to see if I can get it to run first. But that requires me to figure out how to install the kill switch and new key switch in it. Then see if I can get spark. Might have to figure out how to pull the engine and work on it outside of the sled.
One thing I've been thinking on is, since this buggy will be driven on dirt and dust being a problem, wondering how I would go about making a snorkel for it? What kind of flex pipe do I need to get to get the air box up high, then what kind of rejetting would I need to do?
Also, since trying to locate the vintage cylinder head temp gauge that would install into the sled dash, is there any Go kart digital displays that have a Tachometer and a cylinder temp gauge with probe?
Master Hack
Well-known member
This sounds like my kinda project!
1310 u joints? I’m picturing parts robbed from cut up driveshafts, cuz thats the way l do things. What yokes are you using that have keyways cut for 1 or 1.25 shafts?
i made axleshafts for franken buggy, wih driveshaft parts and that sounds like l could up my game.
1310 u joints? I’m picturing parts robbed from cut up driveshafts, cuz thats the way l do things. What yokes are you using that have keyways cut for 1 or 1.25 shafts?
i made axleshafts for franken buggy, wih driveshaft parts and that sounds like l could up my game.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
I havent started on the poject yet. I'm in the planning/buying parts phase of it. They call to use U-joints for 1" diameter with 1/4" keyway. However, all the ones fitting that description are not suited for anything about 30hp. The engine I currently have, brand new/rebuilt puts out approximately 50hp. Spicer 1310 are what's used on some off reading vehicles such as the Jeep Wrangler I believe, so they would be plenty strong enough to hold up to abuse.
I've been looking at CV axle options for the last couple years since I purchased the plans. They usually end up being too long for what I'd want and cutting them down and welding them back together presents other challenges, such as either being off, causing them to be imbalanced.
I havent fully decided on what to do for the drivetrain yet. I havent fully ruled out doing the u-joint setup yet, I just know that it wont be cheap vs getting say even ATV axles. I know I want this to be durable, because I have a nasty tendency to beat the crap out of stuff.
Some items will be built out of 1/4" for that reason instead of 3/16", since one the extra strength, and two, easier for me to weld it safely without compromising on much except for the additional weight.
Master Hack
Well-known member
1350’s are up to the task easily. I’ve run them in this heavy pig for years. Stupidity broke more than abuse ever did! Making shafts isn’t that tough ifya can get yer hands on a lathe. The yokes are the problem cuz of splines on slip yokes bla bla bla.
it would make it so much more simple to have parts that size that aren’t salvaged form driveshfts.
it would make it so much more simple to have parts that size that aren’t salvaged form driveshfts.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
A lathe is on the list of tools to get. But my 24x24 garage has no space for a lathe at the moment.
I could maybe get away with Bronco II 1210 Ujoints if I can find the proper yokes.
I could maybe get away with Bronco II 1210 Ujoints if I can find the proper yokes.
Master Hack
Well-known member
I was hoping you knew something l didn’t! Like where to get cool yokes.
Nice project, l like yer thinkin!
Nice project, l like yer thinkin!
Kartorbust
Well-known member
It's tough, been able to locate some stuff on Summit Racing and a few other places. Not sure if I want to go with slip yokes or PTO style.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
You might be surprised how some flimsy everyday stuff can work really well and reliably for air movement. I advised Patty Moise's dad on junking the 3" Alumaflex fart-fan piping he wanted for her front brakes for some common 4" spring-steel-wound vinyl laundry dryer piping for them. Worked great, and I got a Formula credit to my bragging resume'.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Still no progress has been made. It appears as though Badland Buggy has gone out of business, error message pops up when you try to go to their website. Minibuggy.net, another forum infrequent for this project is now no longer online. They were in talks with switching ownership to the guy who ran the Facebook page, but not sure if that deal fell through or what's going on.
The snowmobile engine is going to take way more work than it's worth to get running. Been looking at alternative engine choices and possibly going with my own design at this point. But using the existing plans as a starting point.
The snowmobile engine is going to take way more work than it's worth to get running. Been looking at alternative engine choices and possibly going with my own design at this point. But using the existing plans as a starting point.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Been looking at other engine options, tempted going down a watercooled 250cc Zongshen 4 speed with reverse or a 200cc air cooled Lifan 5 speed. Watercooled could run cooler especially at lower speeds than an air cooled. But I have heard some issues with the 4 speed with reverse gear going out.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Small update that equates to next to nothing. Pulled the fan shroud off and got both heads off, no major mechanical damage. Not much cross hatching remains not sure if that's good or not or fine. Cylinder closest to the primary clutch has the most carbon build up. Do know for a fact, the vacuum fuel pump works.
So ignition, kill switch for sure needs to be replaced. Needs gaskets, 2 head studs (two out of the 12 are still possibly original). Carb needs a rebuild or replacement for sure.
So ignition, kill switch for sure needs to be replaced. Needs gaskets, 2 head studs (two out of the 12 are still possibly original). Carb needs a rebuild or replacement for sure.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Just got in from Amazon, a dual temperature thermometer. The thermo rings are just big enough to fit between the head and spark plugs. Wires are a bit short, seems to be dual 20ga wires to the connectors. Would there be any potential issues if I were to cut the wires and added the same gauge wire to the length I'd need it and soldered the connections? It was a concern I have. Long as the soldered joints aren't too close to the high heat of the heads and engine I'd think it would be fine and not throw anything off. We do it a lot in the automotive repair world, but I don't know if doing this on this kind of connection would cause any anomalies in the readings.
Master Hack
Well-known member
All wire has resistance, so use the same or bigger wire and don't go any longer than necessary. Solder, insulate, and observe polarity.
It'll be fine. What could posssibly go wrong?
It'll be fine. What could posssibly go wrong?
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Realistically to make sure cable management and routing is good, I'll probably need to add on between 6 and 8 feet of wire.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
One thing I could do, is scrap most of the plans and do this as a front engine buggy and not worry about the wiring for the temp sensors being too short. Least then the weight could be closer to a 50/50 front rear split than like a 40/60 or 35/65 split with it being in the back behind the seat.