Kartorbust
Well-known member
I may go that route. Parts quad...I do t know yet. May end up with more custom fab going that route than what I'm already looking at.
ST2-NG Pre-build "Think Tank"
- Thread starter Kartorbust
- Start date
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
am saying parts quad for wheels and small bits like levers springs bolts tc lights wiring etc
Kartorbust
Well-known member
If I can find one I'll go that route for sure. May need two though.want to keep the same bolt pattern front and rear and not off set. Not a fan.
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
id say get polaris wheels and hubs because they are super common and most places who sell new polaris products swap wheels on them for cistomers im sure you can find a nice set for sale at a shop somewhere
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Well considering I already have a Polaris Trailboss 350 gearbox, I'll probably look for one of those.
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
i had a 330 2wd considering they are monsterous machines im sure you could use a 350 to make a good parts quad
Kartorbust
Well-known member
I'm wondering if I should add front brakes as well. The ST2-NG and LT only call for a single rear disc brake. They want you to take what I'm assuming is a Geo Metro disc and make a keyed adapter to mount it to the rear spool. Disc on those start around .670" or about 17mm thick.
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
doesnt the 4wd model 350 trail boss have front disc brakes or drum?
Kartorbust
Well-known member
I believe so. I'm just trying to figure out at this point how much further I'm deviating from the plans. I'm already converting this into a long travel ST2 but on the Next Gereration platform. The plans say to use trailer spindle set that you weld for the front A-arms. There's a balance of custom fabrication and other machine work I need to avoid to keep cost down.
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
yea it makes sense to keep machine costs down. i realised the way trail boss spindles are the struts are part of them are you usuing the spindles or just hubs or neither?
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Not sure yet. Only trailboss parts I have are the gear box and gearbox sprockets. That's it. I may use hubs, but I don't know yet. Won't know until I start building.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Anyone on here have any experience with 2 stroke Wizard Tune Pipe software? Thinking about buying it so I can do up the expansion chamber that I'll need for the buggy. Since the existing pipe will not work, getting the pipe plans at least printed out, I could take them to a shop to be cut, rolled and welded. It's not a task that I'm confident in doing myself. https://www.buildandclick.com/html/tuned_pipe.html
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Did check out BMI karts custom axle stuff...starts at $85....YIKES! If only I could option for 1-1/4" steel and not have to do aluminum.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
MFG S____y sells their Flexpruf 1" axles for $45 - $53, with various type ends. Their solid steel 1" axles are a little less. Running Flexpruf myself, but haven't had a good stress test.
I'll say this, it's my belief that you can put incredible torque on an axle like the 1" Flexpruf or solid, and it won't pretzel on you if you just have enough bearings along its length. That's why you can't ever open the bottom of a V8 engine and only see one bearing in the front and one in the rear.
Running 4 cast iron 1" pillow block bearings on my 15+ hp. right now, 4 instead of 3 mainly because ebay sells them in various lots of 1, 2, 4, 8, etc. Mine all came from Jeremywell and are 4K rpm's that are as good as any others. All have zerk fittings with caps, and elongated mounting holes in the castings.
I see you're thinking 50 - 60 hp., but the rule still applies. An axle can't pretzel unless there's enough room between the bearings to do so. Here's a tip: Use DOUBLE-SPLIT locking collars on everything, that just slap right on and get tightened without sliding anything off the axle ends to change/add parts. No harm in putting them on BOTH sides of everything on the axle, which strengthens the spaces between bearings even further.
I'll say this, it's my belief that you can put incredible torque on an axle like the 1" Flexpruf or solid, and it won't pretzel on you if you just have enough bearings along its length. That's why you can't ever open the bottom of a V8 engine and only see one bearing in the front and one in the rear.
Running 4 cast iron 1" pillow block bearings on my 15+ hp. right now, 4 instead of 3 mainly because ebay sells them in various lots of 1, 2, 4, 8, etc. Mine all came from Jeremywell and are 4K rpm's that are as good as any others. All have zerk fittings with caps, and elongated mounting holes in the castings.
I see you're thinking 50 - 60 hp., but the rule still applies. An axle can't pretzel unless there's enough room between the bearings to do so. Here's a tip: Use DOUBLE-SPLIT locking collars on everything, that just slap right on and get tightened without sliding anything off the axle ends to change/add parts. No harm in putting them on BOTH sides of everything on the axle, which strengthens the spaces between bearings even further.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Flexpruf is made by Azusa Engineering. The main axle for the spool is 13". Axle from the u-joints to the hubs are 11 1/2". The longest shaft if I go with the jackshaft would be 14" to accommodate the driven pulley input. The output would be 11" with the pillow block bearings being 8 5/16" apart. I'll get some split lock collars.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
I'm sure you have the right idea on the locking collars, but remember...............
The "split" collars I 've seen for sale are all SINGLE split ones, still have to be slid on like a bearing, and a single bolt tightens it.
Only the ones advertised as DOUBLE split are the 2 piece with the 2 bolts.
The "split" collars I 've seen for sale are all SINGLE split ones, still have to be slid on like a bearing, and a single bolt tightens it.
Only the ones advertised as DOUBLE split are the 2 piece with the 2 bolts.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Project is still on hold. With the house purchase and a few hiccups, I need to upgrade the wiring in the garage before I can start doing anything, let alone start a buggy project. Only have a single 15 amp breaker going out to the garage. Just my current welder needs a 30 amp breaker. May try to run 10ga wire to the garage in a few weeks from the basement breaker box to a single outlet in the garage. Then eventually upgrade all the wiring between the house and garage.
At current, there's underground rated 12ga or 14ga wiring running between the house and garage, to the single breaker panel in the house to a 15 amp. Now currently I have a spare unused 20 amp in there, so in theory, I could swap the 20 amp and 15 amp for a 30 amp to do it, however that would require running the 10ga wire I have.
So, trying to decide how much it'll cost to just upgrade the shut off box outside below the meter (it's only rated for 60 amps, but the breaker box is rated at 125 amp) and the breaker box in the house then either get a sub panel for the garage, or have a split from the meter outside to the garage.
Anyone have thoughts on how I should wire up my garage?
I'll need at least a 30 amp for my welder. 15 amp for a bench grinder. 20amp for misc outlet. 10 amp for drill press. For future proofing, I'll have 3 240v outlets one for a welder, one for a 240v air compressor (looking at a Quincy 2 stage 60 gallon, that should last me the rest of my life), and one for a possible plasma cutter or any other 240v machine I get.
At current, there's underground rated 12ga or 14ga wiring running between the house and garage, to the single breaker panel in the house to a 15 amp. Now currently I have a spare unused 20 amp in there, so in theory, I could swap the 20 amp and 15 amp for a 30 amp to do it, however that would require running the 10ga wire I have.
So, trying to decide how much it'll cost to just upgrade the shut off box outside below the meter (it's only rated for 60 amps, but the breaker box is rated at 125 amp) and the breaker box in the house then either get a sub panel for the garage, or have a split from the meter outside to the garage.
Anyone have thoughts on how I should wire up my garage?
I'll need at least a 30 amp for my welder. 15 amp for a bench grinder. 20amp for misc outlet. 10 amp for drill press. For future proofing, I'll have 3 240v outlets one for a welder, one for a 240v air compressor (looking at a Quincy 2 stage 60 gallon, that should last me the rest of my life), and one for a possible plasma cutter or any other 240v machine I get.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Don't know what codes and inspectors are like up there in N.E., but down here in FL they can get really snarky about anything you do on the outside of a building, like that disconnect upgrade. If you've already got a NEMA box rated for 60 amp feeding to a 125 amp panel, you better hide it or replace it.
Only way that could pass here would be if the 125 amp feed only passed through the box uninterrupted, and the box was tapped into with separate wires from the meter sharing the house panel's conduit, or close nipple if meter and box are joined. You could then run 60 amps total out of the box to the garage as direct burial or in weathertite conduit, but may still require a weatherhead for entry into the garage.
Only way that could pass here would be if the 125 amp feed only passed through the box uninterrupted, and the box was tapped into with separate wires from the meter sharing the house panel's conduit, or close nipple if meter and box are joined. You could then run 60 amps total out of the box to the garage as direct burial or in weathertite conduit, but may still require a weatherhead for entry into the garage.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
The box is original to the house or was at least there when we bought it. Not sure if the home inspector caught it in his initial report or if that was even something he looked at, dude was supposedly an electrician for 10+ years.
Kartorbust
Well-known member
So I'm dumb, my welder only needs a 20amp. A couple months ago, my dad helped me install a 20 amp breaker.
On the fence on where to take this project overall. I know what I want out of it, but I have no idea if the engine is even good. Running out of space in my garage right now between lawn tractor, trailer, vehicle, VW parts. So bringing down the snowmobile is going to be tough.
The Polaris gearbox is pretty much ago, need to find the disc brake for it and need to order up the driven pulley, as well as the support bearing. Currently the sprocket on the gearbox is the stock 12 tooth. I'll have to put in a jackshaft to get an 8:1 ratio needed for a snowmobile clutch setup. The low range isn't stout enough to be used at full speed. Kind of what I had figured.
So I'll probably go the 12>25>10>40 for an 8.33:1 not including any overdrive from the driver/driven.
On the fence on where to take this project overall. I know what I want out of it, but I have no idea if the engine is even good. Running out of space in my garage right now between lawn tractor, trailer, vehicle, VW parts. So bringing down the snowmobile is going to be tough.
The Polaris gearbox is pretty much ago, need to find the disc brake for it and need to order up the driven pulley, as well as the support bearing. Currently the sprocket on the gearbox is the stock 12 tooth. I'll have to put in a jackshaft to get an 8:1 ratio needed for a snowmobile clutch setup. The low range isn't stout enough to be used at full speed. Kind of what I had figured.
So I'll probably go the 12>25>10>40 for an 8.33:1 not including any overdrive from the driver/driven.