id say get polaris wheels and hubs because they are super common and most places who sell new polaris products swap wheels on them for cistomers im sure you can find a nice set for sale at a shop somewhere
I'm wondering if I should add front brakes as well. The ST2-NG and LT only call for a single rear disc brake. They want you to take what I'm assuming is a Geo Metro disc and make a keyed adapter to mount it to the rear spool. Disc on those start around .670" or about 17mm thick.
I believe so. I'm just trying to figure out at this point how much further I'm deviating from the plans. I'm already converting this into a long travel ST2 but on the Next Gereration platform. The plans say to use trailer spindle set that you weld for the front A-arms. There's a balance of custom fabrication and other machine work I need to avoid to keep cost down.
Anyone on here have any experience with 2 stroke Wizard Tune Pipe software? Thinking about buying it so I can do up the expansion chamber that I'll need for the buggy. Since the existing pipe will not work, getting the pipe plans at least printed out, I could take them to a shop to be cut, rolled and welded. It's not a task that I'm confident in doing myself. https://www.buildandclick.com/html/tuned_pipe.html
MFG S____y sells their Flexpruf 1" axles for $45 - $53, with various type ends. Their solid steel 1" axles are a little less. Running Flexpruf myself, but haven't had a good stress test.
I'll say this, it's my belief that you can put incredible torque on an axle like the 1" Flexpruf or solid, and it won't pretzel on you if you just have enough bearings along its length. That's why you can't ever open the bottom of a V8 engine and only see one bearing in the front and one in the rear.
Running 4 cast iron 1" pillow block bearings on my 15+ hp. right now, 4 instead of 3 mainly because ebay sells them in various lots of 1, 2, 4, 8, etc. Mine all came from Jeremywell and are 4K rpm's that are as good as any others. All have zerk fittings with caps, and elongated mounting holes in the castings.
I see you're thinking 50 - 60 hp., but the rule still applies. An axle can't pretzel unless there's enough room between the bearings to do so. Here's a tip: Use DOUBLE-SPLIT locking collars on everything, that just slap right on and get tightened without sliding anything off the axle ends to change/add parts. No harm in putting them on BOTH sides of everything on the axle, which strengthens the spaces between bearings even further.
Flexpruf is made by Azusa Engineering. The main axle for the spool is 13". Axle from the u-joints to the hubs are 11 1/2". The longest shaft if I go with the jackshaft would be 14" to accommodate the driven pulley input. The output would be 11" with the pillow block bearings being 8 5/16" apart. I'll get some split lock collars.
I'm sure you have the right idea on the locking collars, but remember...............
The "split" collars I 've seen for sale are all SINGLE split ones, still have to be slid on like a bearing, and a single bolt tightens it.
Only the ones advertised as DOUBLE split are the 2 piece with the 2 bolts.