Polaris

[Master Hack]

That looks great! Yer looking for just a snug fit on the bearings. Then use either loctite 648, 660, or 680. One of those should be multi purpose enough to use on yer other applications as well.

Being cheap and a hack ( bad combination) l use whatever l have. The red stuff is purdy tenacious but can be less permanant wiith heat, if you find it has to come apart.

 

[Functional Artist]

That looks great! Yer looking for just a snug fit on the bearings. Then use either loctite 648, 660, or 680. One of those should be multi purpose enough to use on yer other applications as well.

Being cheap and a hack ( bad combination) l use whatever l have. The red stuff is purdy tenacious but can be less permanant wiith heat, if you find it has to come apart.

Kool, thanks!

Looking on E-Bay for 660 or 680 Loctite, I see a bunch of listings for stuff that are past the expiration dates, listed on the bottle.

I'd think if Loctite Corp. bothered to include an expiration date on the label, they did it for a reason.

If I already had it I'd probably try & use it
...but, it doesn't seem like a good idea to buy already expired stuff (even for a small discount)

Any thoughts/comments about expired Loctite?

 

[Master Hack]

Any thoughts/comments about expired Loctite

Well that has a lot to do with ISO 9000 traceability, industrial use and profits no doubt bla bla bla.
ALL of my stuff is expired, but its so expensive i refuse to toss it.

 

[Functional Artist]

You're gonna be sorry you asked...

0901d1968065f1f4_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

Bottom line don't tighten the axle nut down on the inner race much more than finger tight, unless there is an accurate length spacer between the two bearings.

Sorry, I'm buggin' the crap out of you today

It's a raining
...so, I can't do much outside today

Can you expand on "accurate length spacer between the (2) bearings"?
...like when a spacer would be needed or helpful?
...& why?

Like, for example the bicycle hubs have a built-in ridge (on both sides) that the outer race of the bearing "sits" against
...so, the bearings don't really need a spacer to keep them in place

But,

I'm thinkin' if/when "side loaded", like when the front wheels turn, a spacer would help to "spread the load" across both bearings

Thoughts

 

[Master Hack]

Like, for example the bicycle hubs have a built-in ridge (on both sides) that the outer race of the bearing "sits" against
...so, the bearings don't really need a spacer to keep them in place

But,

I'm thinkin' if/when "side loaded", like when the front wheels turn, a spacer would help to "spread the load" across both bearings

The spacer is really just idiot proofing.
If the spacer is the exact length of the distance between the bearings when installed any moron could tighten the axle nut without preloading the bearing. An intellegent being on the other hand could tighten the nut (nylon locknut or castle nut) to the point of removing any free play yet not binding up the bearing with excessive preload.
Then drill and pin it if necessary.
Turning (lateral) forces affect the contact angle inside the bearing, but won’t be helped by the spacer.
The hub, axle and bearings form a relatively rigid assembly with regards to lateral forces.
Assuming all the parts involved have proper clearance to one another.

 

[Functional Artist]

Stilla doin' research

Seein' what other racers have come up with
...& maybe even see-in' how they perform

 

[Master Hack]

Looks like an upside down pink bathtub it the hot ticket!

 

[Functional Artist]

Back ta workin' on the spindles

Inside or back side

Outside or front side

* Notice small inner washer (on both sides) only contacts the inner race
...so, the outer race & hub can rotate freely

The larger outer washer is a bit bigger, to help protect the bearing & seal
...& we still have plenty of shaft still available, to add a "lock pin" ("Safety wire or Cotter pin" as required by the rule book)

 

[Master Hack]

Waitin on the spin test!
looks good!

 

[Functional Artist]

Waitin on the spin test!
looks good!

Thanks!

We'll get there, I'ma still workin' on mockin' everything up

Established the Ackermann angle by "running" a string, tied to the center of the rear axle, up to the King Pin

Another view

An up'er close'er view

FYI the Spindle Arm length on many standard go kart spindles is ~3 1/2"

Since this is kinda experimental & we have lots of material to work with, I'm gonna install (3) holes for attaching the tie rod
...at 2 1/2", 3" & 3 1/2"
...this way we have options to test

Kinda like this

 

[Functional Artist]

The Pitman arm that I made seems a bit short
...so, I made up longer ones

They are made outta a bit thinner material (~1/16")
...so, I doubled 'em up, ta make a stronger junction

Made up some Tie Rods too (5/16" steel rod)

Top view

Another view

 

[Functional Artist]

Also, did ya'all notice the full-length Aluminum "Belly Pan", as required by the rule book? (the rear section is not installed, in the pics)
...& chassis gussets that double as "Belly Pan" mounts?

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

I have a suggestion: "moon" discs for the front wheels to reduce drag, preferably aluminum. Also the belly pan is excellent.

 

[Functional Artist]

I have a suggestion: "moon" discs for the front wheels to reduce drag, preferably aluminum. Also the belly pan is excellent.

Hey EZ,

Good Idea!
I've seen where a lot of Electrathon racers are using wheel covers to reduce drag.

 

[Functional Artist]

Checkin' on turn-ability

Top view (left turn)

Top view (right turn)

Nuthin' hits, bumps or rubs
...but, that's quite a bit of turn-ability
...so, I'ma gonna add some "stops"

 

[Functional Artist]

The wheel (with green tire) that I've been using, for these mock ups, is the rear wheel with the threaded hub.

I just threaded the brake rotor adapter onto the threads, of the rim, & bolted the rotor on.

So, I'ma still needin' to install brake rotors onto the front rims
...but, buying a 34mm tap & trying to tap threads, onto the hubs of the front rims didn't seem too promising
...& I'd rather NOT spend $75.00+ at my local machine shop, ta get 'em done
So, Im'a gonna try another idea

I cut a couple of 3" discs outta some 1/16" steel

Then, cut a 1 1/2" hole outta the center (using the same "pilot hole")

After a bit of clean up, they looked like this

Used an old spray paint can as a "centering jig" to center the brake rotor adapter, with the steel disc

After drillin' the holes for the brake rotor bolts, I had ta ream 'em out a bit more, ta fit on/over the wheel hub

On the rim, they look like this

Another view

 

[Functional Artist]

Front rim/hub, unmolested

Front rim/hub, after the attack

Put (1) of the "hub rings", that I made up, over the hub
...lined every other bolt hole up, in between the structural walls
...& then, drilled (3) 3/16" holes

By doin' it this way the rotor will still be bolted (with (3) bolts) to the adapter the "stock" way

...& have (3) thru bolts running thru the rim

Other side

Another angle

With another "hub ring" on the outer side, the rotor & adapter shall be attached securely to the rim
...& (hopefully) not affect the strength of the wheel/hub junction too much)

But wait, there's more...

After paintin' the hub rings (& during assembly) I'ma gonna use some of the Loctite (when it gets here)
...ta "glue" the rotor adapter, to the hub

This way, the (3) bolts will supply a mechanical bond
...& the Loctite, will strengthen the junction/joint (maybe even by double) by supplying an adhesive bond
...& & & the rotor will still be removable (if ever necessary)

 

[Functional Artist]

We gots us some green Hub Rings
...ta go with the green tires

Dry fit 'em (while still waitin' on Loctite)

Inside/rotor side

Outside

 

[Functional Artist]

Oh...yea
...& we gots us some "baby ducklings" too

Before (& still workin'-inspectin our brake components, before assembly)

After

We gots (4) 'wittle guys (or gals?)

Didn't want to disturb 'em too much
...so, I'll get better pics later

 

[Master Hack]

American ingenuity at its finest. The wheels, not the cat...