I have 2. Both are physically damaged/busted. I forgot what was broke on the first one (like that when I bought the cart). I think the previous owner bottomed it out on something. The one I replaced it with had issues from day one. These engines suspend, rather than sit on a plate. The upper hole that the bolt runs through (motor mount) somehow had a slow oil leak. I never opened the motor but I did try changing gaskets, gasket sealant, etc and nothing seemed to stop it. I even took it to a mechanic and couldn't get it fixed without spending more than the motor was worth. It would run fine for a while, then I'd have carb issues. I replaced it a couple times. What done it in (for me) was when the exhaust flange broke off. I'm sure the originals were great, but the quality of the knock offs are very poor. It was nice having electric start, lights, horn, signals, forward/reverse/neutral. But realistically those are all novelties, except for headlights.
Good idea. We've got a little off topic on this one. I'll put together some better info on the Yerf this weekend and start a new post for it.You might wanna start a new thread for your new kart. There's some yerf dog fans that would probably like to give you some advice, and experiences of thier own.
We have beat this horse to death......buried him..... dug his sorry a$$ back up....and beat on him some more,
with 16 pages and over 300 post, I'm sure some have turned their watch off,
. Theres other parts on the pred 212 hemi, that WILL interchange with the other engines, jus NOT the flywheel. While we're on the subject of the hemi, the torque converter clutch looks pretty rough, and it's missing the bushing and spacer. I can stack multiple 3/4" washers to make up the difference of the spacer. The cheapest one I found online was about $10. And I could likely find an alternative for the bushing but I'm not sure if I could find a brass one. If you know of one that's cheap, let me know. If not, they're $15 for a 2 pack online as opposed to a new driver clutch (with bushing) for $20 (MOOSUN 30 Series Torque Converter Driver Clutch 3/4" Bore Go Kart for Comet 219552 5957 https://a.co/d/7lYvaX9). So I'm thinking that just getting a new driver clutch is the better choice.@joshw0000
That $40 cast aluminun flywheel WILL NOT fit the taper on the pred 212 hemi crank.
The pred 212 hemi crank is the ONLY crank that DOES NOT interchange flywheels with any other honda/clone/pred engine. It's in a world of its on,
Now the pred 212 non hemi crank taper does match with that $40 flywheel, and will accept any other flywheel that's uses the CLONE TAPER. But, there's other parts that WILL NOT interchange with the pred 212 non hemi.
Honda, ducar, tillotson, pred 212 non hemi, wildcat 223, pred 224, ec carbs small block stroker kits, all have the CLONE TAPER cranks, and you can interchange flywheels. Jus not with the pred 212 hemi crank.
I know, doesn't make sense, right???
That's jus another reason I don't buy pred 212's any more,
Yea jus use washers or shims for the crank to driver.
Very helpful, as always. Thanks.Yea jus use washers or shims for the crank to driver.
The brass bushing that rides on the driver, between belt. Some don't need it but some do. It depends on the belt lenghts, belt manufacturers, quality of the belt. My grandsons buggy dont need it, with this comet belt. belt is not snug enough when at idle, plus it has 3100 rpm spring, so it's not grappy, jerky, or creeping at idle. And all my junk I have idling at 2000-2200 rpm. I like to get the oil up to temp and slung around as fast as I can. But if I started using a different brand belt, then it might need it.
Now mine and my son's mini, need the brass bushing, but we are running the exact same tav set up, belt, driven, the belts are a lil bit more snug, so they will creep at idle without the bushing.
Its something you will need to figure out, if it creeps, yes if not, no. But if for some reason you have to change to a different belt manufacturer, or length, then you will have to check again.
If theres any rust in the driver or driven where the belt rides, it will eat a belt up. I have saved SOME, by taking em apart and cleaning em up on a grinder wire wheel. If they are pitted, they will eat the belt up. The belt loves a nice smooth, glass like, place to ride on, and they live longer.
As for the driver springs, (stall). It depends on weight, gear, tire height, and riding terrain. But, ALL engines will benefit with more then 2200 stock stall. tavs and most clutches will have 2200 outta the box. You can add too much spring and slow your ouuta the hole pull down. Too much spring will blow passed peak torq in the rpm range, and put less torq to the tires, causing it to pull outta the hole slower.
3100 is a good place to start. 3000 might be better, 2900 might be better, 3200 might be better, jus gotta put 'er on the road and see which 1 leaves the longest black marks. Testing and tuning is fun to me, til builds get too much, then I let the younger guys test for me,
Now the hemi makes a tad bit more torque then the non hemi, because it has .5:1 more compression ratio then the non hemi. Same cam, same carb, same muffler, jus more CR, makes a lil more power. If all things being equal tires, weight, gear, max rpm, you will see a noticeable difference in the 2 engines. COMPRESSION RATIO, is king when it comes to torque to the tires. People can buy all those fancy, dancy, pretty parts in those stage 1&2 kits all they want too. But they ain't doing jack $hit, til they change that head gasket, to get the CR up. It's ez, cheap like $3-$8, and the biggest increase you will notice in only changing 1 part.
I always go to a 7" driven on a kart/buggy, it has a lower low gear,
for pulling then the 6". And will always pull more weight at same rpm then the 6". Space might limit you to a 6". Them yerf dog guys will know more about that.
I hope i helped, if not jus ask. I got some running to do today, I should be around later.
You might wanna start a new thread for your new kart. There's some yerf dog fans that would probably like to give you some advice, and experiences of thier own.
We have beat this horse to death......buried him..... dug his sorry a$$ back up....and beat on him some more,
with 16 pages and over 300 post, I'm sure some have turned their watch off,
Is there a trick to putting this thing back together? I have the old one out. When I twist it in place the spring pops loose.@joshw0000
When you get your driven in. Mark the cam and pulley. That spring is preloaded, and when the snapring comes off, it will unload the spring, the mark on the cam will move to the right. Marking those 2 pieces will let you know where it needs to be (preloaded) when you get it back together.
Heres a couple pics.
Put the spring in the hole where the pen is. This hole is used for heavy under powered vehicles. Make sure your marks line back up.
After you get the snap ring back on, take a big enough socket, put it over the snap ring and wack it good with a BFH. This will make sure the ring is locked down and seated in the groove. If it's not locked down good, it will pop off as soon as the tav starts to shift. Don't ask me how I know,
The tav's are no perfect outta the box. I've learned a couple of mods that make them alot more reliable and take less maintenance. Don't cost nothing and really ez to do. I gotta change a rear sprocket today, I'll grap some more pics. If you interested, let know and I will post them.
View attachment 137080View attachment 137081
I did. I'm working on the 7" driven now. The 8T is installed.
about trying it earlier??? I vaguely remember that.
Do you remember me saying something
Flip the cam over
Place spring into cam
Twist and pop it down
It will stay in cam
Flip it back over
Put end of spring in hole
Twist, push, pull, yank, kick, scream, squel, whatever it takes to get it pushed down.
I'm going to try the red one before I upgrade.
Practice with the less tension hole, so you get a feel for it. Then work your way up.
Placement of that center piece, that's squared, is important. I like to put the pulley part with spring end at around 1 or 2 o'clock. Then turn the cam cc, then push down.I vaguely remember that.
It stays in the cam. My problem is I have a full half turn to make and when I lift it to get over the last hump it pops out of the other piece. I'll get it eventually.
I find the red spring in most resistant hole, is like the yellow spring inbetween least resistant, and next hole.