Need setup advice

[BrownStainRacing]

I probably need to crank it now and make sure I didn't just flood it.

I still don't fully understand what I'm looking for so here's a video.

New video · Saturday, Apr 8, 2023 🎬

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photos.app.goo.gl

Yea, you are right. Looking down from top, you can get a better look see. looks like it is still touching screw.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

You got something to solidly mount it to??? Jus put a couple bolts in and mount it to gokart. 2 bolts diagonally, will hold, jus make sure they are tight. Fire it up and let er run a bit.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Get er bolted down and let er warm up a few mins. Make sure kill switch is working.
Giv er a couple cracks to WOT a time or 2. Be careful, that lil turd motor will hit a lick now.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000
It quit raining a lil bit. I'm go outside. Put up another vid of it idling and some WOT pulls.

 

[joshw0000]

Get er bolted down and let er warm up a few mins. Make sure kill switch is working.
Giv er a couple cracks to WOT a time or 2. Be careful, that lil turd motor will hit a lick now.

Re-read and understand what you're saying now. I got it adjusted so that it doesn't hit and I held her down on concrete to burn off any fuel I dumped in. She's not fully broke in yet so I'll hold off on the WOT until I can do that.

I'm mocking up a new motor mount ATM. I'll end up trimming one end off a few inches but my thought is to weld all of these together and mount the motor to them. Then I can cut a slot in the outer 2 which should essentially give me forward/back & left/right adjustability.

So right now I have the heater fighting the fan so I don't get Monday Morning Fever. Ask me how I know about that. Not so funny story.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I didn't realize it's a brand new engine. Have you retorqed bolts, valve lash adjustment. After a few hot, cold cycles these things need to be checked. It only takes1 bolt to be outta torq spec to ruin a good engine, and a fun day.
To break in an engine, the rings need to seat fairly quick. I found that running different rpms, not letting it set at a constant rpm, seat rings pretty fast. Running it at diffent temps, 250, 275, 300, up and down rpm, hot cycles, repeat, repeat, repeat works real well. Let it cool over night, cold cycles, retorq bolts, check valve lash and do it again. It'll take 3 or 4 days till the bolts and valve lash stay put. Then mount it to what ever, and not worry about bolts backing out.

Keep digging on that motor mount, I'm sure you are getting it.

 

[joshw0000]

I didn't realize it's a brand new engine. Have you retorqed bolts, valve lash adjustment. After a few hot, cold cycles these things need to be checked. It only takes1 bolt to be outta torq spec to ruin a good engine, and a fun day.
To break in an engine, the rings need to seat fairly quick. I found that running different rpms, not letting it set at a constant rpm, seat rings pretty fast. Running it at diffent temps, 250, 275, 300, up and down rpm, hot cycles, repeat, repeat, repeat works real well. Let it cool over night, cold cycles, retorq bolts, check valve lash and do it again. It'll take 3 or 4 days till the bolts and valve lash stay put. Then mount it to what ever, and not worry about bolts backing out.

Keep digging on that motor mount, I'm sure you are getting it.

Is there a spec sheet somewhere that I can download? I did the initial 30 mins at idle, changed the oil (non-synthetic), attempted to ride it at low rpms (and realized the clutch/gearing wasn't going to work). That was about another 20 mins, changed the oil again, and it's been sitting since.

I should be able to finish it tonight. Welding is finished. As usual, it's not pretty. Just need to drill and cut a little bit, then give it a rattle can treatment.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Is there a spec sheet somewhere that I can download? I did the initial 30 mins at idle, changed the oil (non-synthetic), attempted to ride it at low rpms (and realized the torque converter was going to work). That was about another 20 mins, changed the oil again, and it's been sitting since.

I should be able to finish it tonight. Welding is finished. As usual, it's not pretty. Just need to drill and cut a little bit, then give it a rattle can treatment.

When I want my rides to look pretty, I ride them with my high heels and lipstick on.

Flywheel nut, side cover bolts, head bolts, then valve lash.

I'll find torq specs for you.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000
Here ya go. I was eating dinner and watch tv, figured you wasn't in a hurry.

Box Stock Project 196cc Engine and Torque Specifications

Box Stock Project 196cc Engine and Torque Specifications

www.arcracing.com

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000 @BaconBitRacing
Here is why I DONT run stock cast iron flywheels. It's not so much the flywheel as it is the magnet coming loose. They use some kinda epoxy to hold it on, 1 cheap screw, usally with the head broken off, to hold the magnet while epoxy hardens. when the magnet comes loose, at ANY rpm, it hits the lower leg of the coil, destroying everything.

In the right situation, and right time, this is a trip to the emergency room or worse.

 

[joshw0000]

I think this is going to work. Once some parts come in and I can align it I'll drill holes to mount it to the old mount.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

This is my personal preference, it's been tested to 17,000 rpm, thats 17K rpm. My mini, my son's mini, my grandsons buggy has this flywheel.
I keep my personal "turd motor" builds under 6500 rpm, so I feel really safe with this flywheel around my family at that rpm.

Racing Cams and Parts | PVL Flywheel, Clone, Honda GX160/200 | DC-PVL-FW | DynoCams

PVL is known for their quality flywheels. This flywheel gives the racer a high quality option with a great price. Made from die cast aluminum, the PVL flywheel is dynamically balanced and tested by PVL at 17,000RPM. | DC-PVL-FW

www.dynocams.com

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I think this is going to work. Once some parts come in and I can align it I'll drill holes to mount it to the old mount.

Yea, I think it will work. Do you have a square??? Put a square up against the right side of the sprocket, and lay the other end on that mount. that way you only have to drill 1 set of holes, so tav sprocket lines up with axle sprocket, and you will have no chain issues. If it is a hair off, that chain will be crunchy sounding and you will have chain and spocket failures.

Good job, them girls are gonna love it.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

This is my personal preference, it's been tested to 17,000 rpm, thats 17K rpm. My mini, my son's mini, my grandsons buggy has this flywheel.
I keep my personal "turd motor" builds under 6500 rpm, so I feel really safe with this flywheel around my family at that rpm.

Racing Cams and Parts | PVL Flywheel, Clone, Honda GX160/200 | DC-PVL-FW | DynoCams

PVL is known for their quality flywheels. This flywheel gives the racer a high quality option with a great price. Made from die cast aluminum, the PVL flywheel is dynamically balanced and tested by PVL at 17,000RPM. | DC-PVL-FW

www.dynocams.com

That’s a nice price as well, about $150 on ARC.

 

[joshw0000]

Yea, I think it will work. Do you have a square??? Put a square up against the right side of the sprocket, and lay the other end on that mount. that way you only have to drill 1 set of holes, so tav sprocket lines up with axle sprocket, and you will have no chain issues. If it is a hair off, that chain will be crunchy sounding and you will have chain and spocket failures.

Good job, them girls are gonna love it.

Thanks. I did a few fitment tests but forgot to take pictures. The 4 holes are drilled 1" from the edge. It won't stick out further than the motor itself. So I'll mount the motor to it, set it in place, align the 8T sprocket, and mark a couple bolt holes from underneath. From there I can take the motor back off and drill additional mount holes to the other plate.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Thanks. I did a few fitment tests but forgot to take pictures. The 4 holes are drilled 1" from the edge. It won't stick out further than the motor itself. So I'll mount the motor to it, set it in place, align the 8T sprocket, and mark a couple bolt holes from underneath. From there I can take the motor back off and drill additional mount holes to the other plate.

Sounds like a solid plan. So, what parts are you waiting for???

8t sprocket, I'm hoping it don't skip the chain

Belt
7" driven
3100 springs
Driver bolt

You getting closer, and closer everyday.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000 @BaconBitRacing
This is a cheap alternative to the more expensive ARC and pvl flywheels. These come factory installed on the tilly 212r (king of the 212's, imo). It comes outta the box, governored at 5800 rpm, so it has to have a dependable and safe flywheel. Its rated at 8500 rpm. I've installed 1 on the lil faded red stock mini, so my grandson can learn on. A very noticeable difference, it still ran the same top speed of 23 mph and max rpm of 4200 (with me), but got there about 10-15 ft sooner. The lighter weight flywheel, took weight off the crankshaft, letting the engine hit its max rpm sooner. It's lighter then any other finned flywheel that I've come across, so far.

Cast Aluminum Flywheel – Tillotson 212R, Wildcat 240 & Honda/Clone Engines

www.eccarburetors.com

 

[joshw0000]

Sounds like a solid plan. So, what parts are you waiting for???

8t sprocket, I'm hoping it don't skip the chain

Belt
7" driven
3100 springs
Driver bolt

You getting closer, and closer everyday.

Yep, I've got everything except the 8T sprocket, 7" driven, and 3100 springs.

The 7" driven has been delayed for the past 3 days at a local terminal. The garter springs should be in Mom and the sprocket shows Weds. So by next weekend I should be able to give her a test run.

I need to undo the old wiring harness, separate the lights, and wire them with a switch. I'll also run a kill switch to the front.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yep, I've got everything except the 8T sprocket, 7" driven, and 3100 springs.

The 7" driven has been delayed for the past 3 days at a local terminal. The garter springs should be in Mom and the sprocket shows Weds. So by next weekend I should be able to give her a test run.

I need to undo the old wiring harness, separate the lights, and wire them with a switch. I'll also run a kill switch to the front.

Yes, perfect. Kill switch to the front, always. My grandson calls it the "OH CRAP BUTTON",

Have you disconnected the low oil sensor yet? On karts and minis they bounce so much, the low oil sensor will shut the engine off, alot. Jus disconnect it, it's not needed, jus check oil and watch for leaks.

 

[joshw0000]

@joshw0000 @BaconBitRacing
This is a cheap alternative to the more expensive ARC and pvl flywheels. These come factory installed on the tilly 212r (king of the 212's, imo). It comes outta the box, governored at 5800 rpm, so it has to have a dependable and safe flywheel. Its rated at 8500 rpm. I've installed 1 on the lil faded red stock mini, so my grandson can learn on. A very noticeable difference, it still ran the same top speed of 23 mph and max rpm of 4200 (with me), but got there about 10-15 ft sooner. The lighter weight flywheel, took weight off the crankshaft, letting the engine hit its max rpm sooner. It's lighter then any other finned flywheel that I've come across, so far.

Cast Aluminum Flywheel – Tillotson 212R, Wildcat 240 & Honda/Clone Engines

www.eccarburetors.com

Thanks. For this one, Id rather not open the engine. I've been trying to meet up with someone locally to look a one seater with a 212 for $250. It's got a burnt clutch but the owner claims it fires up on the first pull. So if it works out, that'll be my next project and shouldn't require a lot of cutting and welding like this one did. I might go a little more crazy with it.