Need setup advice

[BrownStainRacing]

With everything I'm doing, will this thing still be capable of a slow roll or will it only snatch the tires at full throttle?

You can help the lil engine out a bit, with some really ez simple mods, might cost maybe $10-$15. Get alot more response, acceleration, and improvements over any stupid stage 1 kits suppliers got people believing in.

The pred 212 non hemi is the weakest of the 212's. Outta the box it only has 7.7 - 7.8:1 compression ratio, the smallest main jet, and the least amount of ignition timing, out of all the 212's.

A simple head gasket swap, .009"- .010" thick x 70mm dia., will bump CR up to 9.0:1, that's a huge improvement from idle to where ever you have max rpm set at.

Take that .028" main jet out, open it to .031" with a 1/32" drill bit. With the nice CR bump, it'll really like the extra fuel. They are way too lean outta the box, anyway.

Pop the flywheel off, and replace the stock key, with a +4 degree advance ignition timing key. They are usually around 20-22 degrees from factory. So that +4 will be dam near perfect for that small carb, better air/ fuel ratio, and bump in CR.
Set coil air gap to .035", with a stock cast iron flywheel. They usually too close and cook the coil eventually.

With jus those small mods you will hear, see, and feel the improvements.

Remember these engines were built to run as utility engines running at a constant steady rpm. They need jus a lil help to be good on, off throttle, pulling different load engines.

 

[joshw0000]

You can help the lil engine out a bit, with some really ez simple mods, might cost maybe $10-$15. Get alot more response, acceleration, and improvements over any stupid stage 1 kits suppliers got people believing in.

The pred 212 non hemi is the weakest of the 212's. Outta the box it only has 7.7 - 7.8:1 compression ratio, the smallest main jet, and the least amount of ignition timing, out of all the 212's.

A simple head gasket swap, .009"- .010" thick x 70mm dia., will bump CR up to 9.0:1, that's a huge improvement from idle to where ever you have max rpm set at.

Take that .028" main jet out, open it to .031" with a 1/32" drill bit. With the nice CR bump, it'll really like the extra fuel. They are way too lean outta the box, anyway.

Pop the flywheel off, and replace the stock key, with a +4 degree advance ignition timing key. They are usually around 20-22 degrees from factory. So that +4 will be dam near perfect for that small carb, better air/ fuel ratio, and bump in CR.
Set coil air gap to .035", with a stock cast iron flywheel. They usually too close and cook the coil eventually.

With jus those small mods you will hear, see, and feel the improvements.

Remember these engines were built to run as utility engines running at a constant steady rpm. They need jus a lil help to be good on, off throttle, pulling different load engines.

For my eventual cart, I may go all out. And as fun as this one will be, I have to remember a couple "tweenage" girls will be driving it. So I just wanted to make sure cruising was an option if they don't want to smash the fun button all the time. If they decide they'd like more fun, I'll definitely hit you up for help with engine mods.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yea they will enjoy it. Actually, my grandson learned better throttle control with the 3100 stall springs. The 2200 springs was more jerky, and instantly started moving the buggy with jus barely touching the throttle. Now, he can press down a lil before it starts moving, when he's driving normal. Usually he romps to floor, gravel slinging, dust flying, fish tailing out the driveway, ain't stopping til he sees blood, hears glass, or smells $hit,
He'll be 12 in a couple months.

 

[joshw0000]

Playing around with washers to space it out. This is only adding a single extra washer to what came with the kit. I'd have to pull the drive side out pretty far for the belt to align. There's not a lot left for the keyed piece to grab onto.

I'm getting some 2" tubing in the morning and will play around with some mounting options. Lowes only had 1.5" perforated and it was stupid expensive. I may even be able to figure out a way to mount it so the T/C can face the correct way.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Playing around with washers to space it out. This is only adding a single extra washer to what came with the kit. I'd have to pull the drive side out pretty far for the belt to align. There's not a lot left for the keyed piece to grab onto.

I'm getting some 2" tubing in the morning and will play around with some mounting options. Lowes only had 1.5" perforated and it was stupid expensive. I may even be able to figure out a way to mount it so the T/C can face the correct way.

Yea, that don't look like enough. Mine dont catch much of the crank either. You'll have a better idea once you get that chain straight. They all end up different, you might not need any washers when everything comes together.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000
On the 212, look under the tank and you will see this governor arm and spring, make sure the spring is in the hole farthest right. Holes to the left are less rpm for utility uses. This will put max rpm around 4200-4400. That 212 peaks hp around 4800-4900, but with the stock cast iron flywheel, keep it under 4500 rpm, and make sure it is torqued to spec. too much will crack the flywheel, and destroy the engine, not enough will get same destruction. I don't use stock cast iron flywheels. I will show you why later.

 

[joshw0000]

@joshw0000
On the 212, look under the tank and you will see this governor arm and spring, make sure the spring is in the hole farthest right. Holes to the left are less rpm for utility uses. This will put max rpm around 4200-4400. That 212 peaks hp around 4800-4900, but with the stock cast iron flywheel, keep it under 4500 rpm, and make sure it is torqued to spec. too much will crack the flywheel, and destroy the engine, not enough will get same destruction. I don't use stock cast iron flywheels. I will show you why later.
View attachment 137137

This one?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yeap, that's it. Take tank off, it's easier to move. Don't bend or stretch anyone of the gov parts, it'll never be the same

 

[joshw0000]

Yeap, that's it. Take tank off, it's easier to move. Don't bend or stretch anyone of the gov parts, it'll never be the same

Is this bolt to the tank or a different one holding it? I'm hoping I can simply lift it out of the way without draining/detaching it.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Is this bolt to the tank or a different one holding it? I'm hoping I can simply lift it out of the way without draining/detaching it.

Yea. There's also 2 nuts up front. Jus lift it up a lil, you don't have to disconnect fuel hose. When you put it back, get THAT bolt started 1st, then get the nuts last.

 

[joshw0000]

Yea. There's also 2 nuts up front. Jus lift it up a lil, you don't have to disconnect fuel hose. When you put it back, get THAT bolt started 1st, then get the nuts last.

Got it, thanks.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

No problem.
Good job.

Keep it up and I'll be promoting you to crew chief for the "Turd Motor Racing Team".

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Check your throttle stop screw, and make sure it's not touching the stop tab at WOT.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Lol I forgot the pic. This is not mine, but you get it.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Keep it up and I'll be promoting you to crew chief for the "Turd Motor Racing Team".

Sponsored by Saw-Glu, Made For You.

 

[joshw0000]

Check your throttle stop screw, and make sure it's not touching the stop tab at WOT.

Sorry, I'm going to need it dumbed down a little. What exactly am I looking for?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Sorry, I'm going to need it dumbed down a little. What exactly am I looking for?

In middle of pic, you will see a screw going from right to left, it has a spring around it.

Hold throttle lever to WOT, big arm sticking out, in front of air box, turn the screw cc til its completely off the stop tab. Usually only 4 or 5 threads left sticking out.

 

[joshw0000]

In middle of pic, you will see a screw going from right to left, it has a spring around it.

Hold throttle lever to WOT, big arm sticking out, in front of air box, turn the screw cc til its completely off the stop tab. Usually only 4 or 5 threads left sticking out.

Ok, gotcha. This is how it came from the factory. I haven't messed with it.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Ok, gotcha. This is how it came from the factory. I haven't messed with it.

Yea that's it. Hold lever wide open and make sure it doesn't touch the tab. They usually screwed most the way in. You can take it all the way out, the governor is still gonna work, it's jus gonna work at 4200-4400 now. Not 3200.

 

[joshw0000]

Yea that's it. Hold lever wide open and make sure it doesn't touch the tab. They usually screwed most the way in. You can take it all the way out, the governor is still gonna work, it's jus gonna work at 4200-4400 now. Not 3200.

I probably need to crank it now and make sure I didn't just flood it.

I still don't fully understand what I'm looking for so here's a video.

New video · Saturday, Apr 8, 2023 🎬

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