That looks cool 
,
I'm just wondering.. where do you put your feet?
Axle pegs or will it have foot rests somewhere?
'sid
,I'm just wondering.. where do you put your feet?
Axle pegs or will it have foot rests somewhere?
'sid
My Trike build- ala Steve and Tank
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That looks cool
I'm just wondering.. where do you put your feet?
Axle pegs or will it have foot rests somewhere?
'sid
Thanks. Yup. I am going to weld some pegs onto the forks just above the front axle
Oh, sounds uncomfortable in tight turns, but I'm sure you already know that.
Nevermind, that thing looks mean; I like it
'sid
Nevermind, that thing looks mean; I like it
'sid
Oh, sounds uncomfortable in tight turns, but I'm sure you already know that.
Nevermind, that thing looks mean; I like it
'sid
Thats fine. I will be going slow anyway, and having the pegs there can assist me in turning by pushing my feet one way or the other.
TANKSAREUS
TANKSAREUS
I am thinking of a gear ratio of 10.2:1. What do you guys think of that? Good...bad?
OzFab
Well-known member
Hmm, I dunno, with those big tyres, you might wanna go lower...
Seriously, assuming the rear tyres are 17" (I'm guessing), you'll still get close to 20mph; do you want it that fast?
Seriously, assuming the rear tyres are 17" (I'm guessing), you'll still get close to 20mph; do you want it that fast?
They are actually 20 inch. As long as you guys think the gearing would move me, I am going to stick with it for now
OzFab
Well-known member
Oh, it'll move you alright... 
Unfortunately I don't have too much of an update for you guys this week. It rained the whole weekend and that put a dampener on any work I was going to do.
I did however buy some handle bar brackets from an old motorbike so that I could attach the handlebar to the forks. They are the kind that come in two pieces that fit over the bar and you tighten it down to the frame. Like the ones in the pic below. I bought them for about $2 used
I also started drilling through the axle to attach the hubs to it using roll pins. I have just done one, and I think I might get someone to do the rest for me. I did not drill too straight (I wasn't much off), and now the hub sits slightly off, making the wheel wobble a tiny bit.
Anywhoo.....updates coming hopefully soon
I did however buy some handle bar brackets from an old motorbike so that I could attach the handlebar to the forks. They are the kind that come in two pieces that fit over the bar and you tighten it down to the frame. Like the ones in the pic below. I bought them for about $2 used
I also started drilling through the axle to attach the hubs to it using roll pins. I have just done one, and I think I might get someone to do the rest for me. I did not drill too straight (I wasn't much off), and now the hub sits slightly off, making the wheel wobble a tiny bit.
Anywhoo.....updates coming hopefully soon
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Small update:
I took my 14T sprocket to the machinist I use, and he bores it out to the diameter of my reduction box shaft. He put a keyway in as well. Because the bore was so big, and the sprocket relatively small, he had to weld a collar onto the sprocket to make sure it would not split. He really does a good job.
I will get the engine lined up this weekend, drill the mountong holes, line up the axle sprocket and mark out the spots on the axle where I need my holes drilled
I am then going to take the axle out and give it to my machinist to drill the holes for me. I just cannot drill them straight enough.
I took my 14T sprocket to the machinist I use, and he bores it out to the diameter of my reduction box shaft. He put a keyway in as well. Because the bore was so big, and the sprocket relatively small, he had to weld a collar onto the sprocket to make sure it would not split. He really does a good job.
I will get the engine lined up this weekend, drill the mountong holes, line up the axle sprocket and mark out the spots on the axle where I need my holes drilled
I am then going to take the axle out and give it to my machinist to drill the holes for me. I just cannot drill them straight enough.
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What would be the best kind of spacer to use between the sprocket and the reduction box. I don't want the sprocket directly against the reduction box.
Can I use washers either side of the sprocket? What should they be made out of. Keep in mind that I will probably have to find something at the hardware store, and not get something machined.
I can put a bolt on the end of the shaft to keep it all on, but I am not too sure what would work as spacers
Can I use washers either side of the sprocket? What should they be made out of. Keep in mind that I will probably have to find something at the hardware store, and not get something machined.
I can put a bolt on the end of the shaft to keep it all on, but I am not too sure what would work as spacers
OzFab
Well-known member
Dude, how are we supposed to know how much space needs to be filled when the only pic of the engine in the entire thread has a sprocket on it?
You should know better :toetap05:
Also, is there a size difference in the shaft between the actual shaft & where it comes through the casing?
You should know better :toetap05:
Also, is there a size difference in the shaft between the actual shaft & where it comes through the casing?
I will probably need to fill about 20mm of space. I still have to get everything lined up. The shaft coming out the box is 22mm approx. It is bigger than the engine shaft which is about 19mm. I have taken a pic which I can post tomorrow
Here are those pics you asked for
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firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
Just cut a piece of tubing/pipe to the length you need and slide it on..... Stacked washers will move with time and torque loads..... one piece of tube fixes that problem......
I assume I would have to try get a piece of tubing with the inner diameter as close to the diameter of my PTO?
OzFab
Well-known member
3/4" pipe (as opposed to tube) should fit just about perfect. It needs to be cut/ground/filed absolutely square though, otherwise, it won't butt properly...
Wait, did you say it's bigger than 3/4"?
It is 22mm in diameter.
machinist@large
Active member
Got a pair of calipers? 22mm works out to .866" in the English system. Ordinarily, 3/4" schedule 40 black pipe should work, but with some of the
I've seen offered as "Quality" material, I refuse to even think of blaming you for being cautious or doubtful when it comes to just grabbing something without checking it......I'm guessing that the biggest hurdle you might have would be the weld bead inside of the sample piece of pipe. Do you happen to have a rotary tool of some kind (Dremel or equivalent)? As Tony stated, once the ID fits, the biggest thing is to get the ends square to the tube and as parallel to each other as you can. A lot of people don't seem to grasp it, but a common hand file (fine cut flat type) and some patience can get you easily within +/- .005" of "perfect", which will more than likely be as good as you would get from a store bought piece......
And Jim is also correct about how you can adjust both the effective length of the spacer as well the overall positioning of the whole works by using washers of various thicknesses...... (You know, some in front, some behind, to get the sprocket where you need it.....)
PatEDIT: Ordinarily, the ID of US scheduled pipe is is (loosely) between 10% to 20% larger than it's stated nominal size; it's a bit of a hold over from the turn of the last century when the US was starting to formalize our standards for measurements and weights (among other things....).
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